TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Shit.. I hear you on adapters. But tbh I trust this way more than say wheel adapters that a lot of people run. Lol

 

I run wheel adapters.. well, spacers, not sure if we are talking about the same thing. Hahaha.

 

Same same. Fuck those things. Lol I've seen multiple fail

 

See my sig pic?

I did that on wheel spacers, and I'm still running the same set to this day. 5 years later, nearly 60,000 high speed miles later.

 

what to tell ya.. you're lucky. I've personally seen em fail on just pavement out here.. twice. Spidertrax and Bora. studs sheared right off. no thanks. not worth the risk imo. to each their own tho.

 

Been running my spacers for years as well...

 

Did you see those fails with guys that wheel their trucks, or have wheeled them in the past and just happen to drive it on pavement during the failing incident? Or were they trucks that never see dirt?

 

That's really weird. Could had been user error though. Loose but behind the wheel ya know?

 

these were my close wheeling/camping homies.. I'd tag em but they've been banned over the years. It was not user error, they were used offroad, and failed on pavement. I think both instances was while turning. We arent noobs and dont pussyfoot.. so they had some mileage. both have never ran them since.

 

My curiosity was just more with how the truck is used. I don’t think I’d use them if I was as hard on my truck as you guys are.

 

It's sort of a trip how you see these trucks just ran the hell through their paces and they hold up fine and then as soon as you get on the road they break hard.

I don't know, I've had great luck with my Boras so if it ain't broke...

 

On BORAs, 2" in the rear and on 37s. Wheel and tire are about 95lbs.

 

Well my clutch was slipping in the higher gears with a brand new clutch 8k miles on it about 5 months ago. I say “was” cause now it’s holding. The only thing I’ve done recently is change my idler bearings and crank pulley. And the crank pulley is my thought. Cause when I was tightening the crank bolt with my 4ft breaker bar I had it in 6 gear. And the crank turned some in both directions while tightening or loosening that crank bolt. So could that have helped better match up my pressure plate to the flywheel?!

 

I just got my Mishimoto t stat in and my initial observations are that it is much more stout than it's Motorad competitive counterpart. When I do my thermostat re-exchange I'll take pictures comparing the very notable differences between the two.

Without documenting in pictures, I will say, stick to OE quality, or Mishimoto for a lower degree operating temp t stat. The Motorad one will not last very long.

 

mishimoto housing and thermostat ordered...

 

I thought the mishimoto 160 would over cool most of our non sleeved engines? Everyone just planning on retuning or turning that CEL off?

 

No. Thresholds will be lowered to accommodate. Then, timing thusly bumped to take advantage of the cooler temps.

That's the idea anyway.

 

Isn't that a yes? Thesholds lowered sounds like it's too cold and retuning is required

 

I am more concerned sitting on hot trails not moving as much as opposed to running down the highway.

 

We're simply moving the temperature operating window down by 20 degrees. (providing that your heat dissipation capabilities are up to the task. I.e: a bad ass radiator) The advantage to that is that you can run more timing.

I speak of the thresholds in the ECU regarding temps. Now, certainly, an un-tuned truck will have an MIL pop with a 160 degree tstat.

Maybe I mis-read what you were getting at. I concur. A 160 tstat is a bad idea unless you have tuning capabilities and a radiator that's capable of handling the rigors of keeping the 1GR 20 degrees cooler than stock.