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Rock Sliders

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by JadistheTaco, Jan 23, 2020.

  1. Jan 23, 2020 at 3:05 PM
    #1
    JadistheTaco

    JadistheTaco [OP] Member

    Joined:
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    2007 White Tacoma
    Added ARB Deluxe Bumper w/ 10k lb. Warn Winch Upgraded to 32" Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs Replaced Stock Wheels w/ Blacked-Out Toyota Rims Replaced Original Headlights w/ PIAA Halogens Removed Mudflaps
    I'm in the design-stage of building some rock-sliders for my rig. I have an '07 with the access-cab. Looking to see if any other 2nd-gen owners have tips for how and where to mount them on the frame. Pictures would be great! Thanks
     
  2. Jan 23, 2020 at 3:08 PM
    #2
    rnish

    rnish Well-Known Member

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    King's, Camburg UCA, Dirt King LCA, armor
    There are DIY slider threads with plans on TW.
     
    Naveronski likes this.
  3. Jan 24, 2020 at 4:22 AM
    #3
    PMK

    PMK Well-Known Member

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    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors, Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers, URD Y pipe with O2 sims.
    Agree, that is a great initial resource to explore.

    Granted Rock sliders can get expensive, but the serious built ones do require not only welding skills but most times the ability to bend some heavy wall larger diameter tubes. That may be a limiting factor for many DIY guys, unless they buy a kit.
     
  4. Jan 24, 2020 at 5:01 AM
    #4
    PacificNwestiW86

    PacificNwestiW86 Go beyond

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    Ron
    Washington
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    2011 Tacoma Sport DCLB
    JBA HC uca, ome884/5100s set at .85, energy suspension bushings for swaybar and rack and pinion, clamshell bushing, Moog uca,LCA,inner/outter tierod, stabilzer link Leaf pack, Trq CV axle+wheel hub assembly
    Square bar would be the easiest. Portaband/grinder cut off wheels, welder, wire wheel, flapper disc.

    Equally space out the kickers with mounting plates and encapsulate atleast two points that connect to the frame weld each corner. Since I'll be getting just a harbor freight welder make sure you get penetration. The machines rated for 3/16 but I plan on using atleast 1/4 or 5/16. If you're worried about penetration, make you're first pass, full welds on both sides, than stack two more welds on both sides of the first pass, that should be plenty. Give the mounting plates a quick little tack. Put it on the frame, make sure it's tight then tack again, pull off and weld it out. That way it's the true angle to the frame with no gaps.

    I plan on doing a fab of one here in a little bit. I plan on welding individual plates to the frame, than weld the sliders to the plates that way you can cut them off without digging into the frame. I am going to try and have a slight angle upwards just like the Cali raised sliders.. round tube looks better but I'm in it for functionality rather than looks. Wish I had one earlier kuz I already joed up one side of my truck, make sure you test fit then lay atleast 5-6 coats of primer, then 7-8 coats of paint. Then some clear coat. Its going to get fucked up eventually for sure but more coats the better.
     
  5. Jan 24, 2020 at 5:39 AM
    #5
    D2.

    D2. Well-Known Member

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    Dan
    Nova Scotia, Canada
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    2009 Tacoma - access cab 4x4 2TR-FE
    Cruise Control install. Intermittent wipers Hood lights Bed Lights Sliders 3" lift 886's on Billy 5100's Icon AAL 285/75 R16 Falken Wildpeak AT3W's

    Tell me about it!
    I went the build it yourself route.
    I used the 1boredclerk bolt on slider frame plate CAD files to have my frame plates cut / bent - $$
    Tried to save $$ by building my own tube bender ( Crash and burn on that one! ) - $$ down the drain
    Bought a tube bender + stand + Die - $$$
    Bought 2x as much tube as I needed ( because I'm a N00B and screwed up my bends the first few times ) - $$
    ( not necessary since I had a flux core welder, but.... )
    upgraded to a MIG welder - $$$
    bought the MIG Bottle - $$$

    honestly, just materials and bender alone, I'm no doubt at the cost of just buying some good sliders. Now I know why they are not cheap! But living in :canada: I did not have many choices. Suck it up, pay the big $$ for some sliders, get hosed on the exchange rate, get hosed on shipping ( driving cross border is out of the question ATM, its an 8hr drive one way just to get to the USA. ) OR buy all this stuff, make my mistakes, learn from them and make my sliders.

    I went this way so that not only can I make my sliders, but I can make some for some friends, and possibly sell some sliders and making some of my $$ back.

    I'm not trying to discourage you. Just letting you know this is how my journey has been.


    Here's some of the information I've discovered along the way.

    The square tube that comes off the frame, and what ties in the round tube is 2" square tube, 1/8" thick

    round tube: 1 3/4" O.D. .120 wall
    Broken down in to two categories, DOM and EW
    DOM is considered "king" or the most durable, strongest, however you want to slice it, but its more expensive
    EW ( electronically welded ) is cheaper, not considered to be "as strong" but from what I read and seen on youtube ) unless you are dropping on rocks from really really high up, it good enough! Seriously, check out this video

    you'll need approx 10' of round tube and 10' or square tube per side of your truck to make sliders.


    **edit**
    I almost forgot, most sliders for Taco's are angled up 20 degrees, not from the frame, but from the other end ( if that makes sense... ) Look at some pictures of sliders not installed on the truck, and you'll see what I mean.
     

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