Trade In or Private Sale Opinions

I have a 2015 TRD OR, 5ft bed, 45k, baja design fogs,with a set of SCS wheels, and new tires.
Only flaw is the car was hit in the rear, we where all stopped and someone just accelerated into us, caused like 3k in damage. But I did get an awesome bumper outa the deal!

I need to sell the truck to finish house work, and was wondering what’s a realistic trade in vs private party value? Carvana put like 18 on this.. going to start dropping by dealerships but was wondering what you guys opinions are. I have a set of fox 2.0/remote res rears I can install as well or sell seperare that are brand new..

For 18-20k I wouldn’t sell, I’m sure it would be impossible to replace at those number.

Pic of the truck the way it is. It’s very clean all around.

I need to finish work but if this accident is going to force me to give the truck away, it wouldn’t be worth it.

Thanks! Your opinions are valued here! If you have any questions let me know in trying to determine what I could get for this truck.

 

even with an accident, id be surprised if you couldn't get better than 18k with a private sale. but the dealership will cut you a check today, so if time is not on your side, then there is your answer.

 

Private Sale = More Money, Takes Time
Trade-In = Less Money, Instant. Even if your trade-in is "above" market value , don't forget these costs will be built into your new vehicle purchase.

Your truck is worth more than $18k. The dealers need margin to make money on your truck after they purchase it

 

You'll always do better with a private sale vs. trading it in.
The trade off is dealing with the public, which can be a real pain in the ass.
As far as the accident goes, you've repaired the damage, right?
I wouldn't sweat that too much.

 

I got time! This is just to make life a little easier. Just would want to be realistic if I went private party with the accident. Dealers are charging high 20’s for trucks with more miles and non or.. would 26500 be unrealistic as a private party sale price?

 

It got a new quarter since he hit me from the side, and bumper. But you know the deal, it’s blood in the water lol!!!

 

Check NADA for values. They are still a little low but it's the closest value. My truck is in the shop now and may be totalled so I've been researching book value vs market value. Seems there about $1k-$2k difference in what the book says vs what a truck is actually selling for. You could probably get in the lower $20k for that based on what I've seen. Wish that was in my budget because I would pick it up. I highly recommend private party as that will give you the most but like others have said it will take a bit longer to sell.

 

Also, sell that extra set of wheels separately.
Truck buyers will likely consider them freebies as part of deal.

 

My or wheels have worn out tires! It wouldn’t be safe but yeah another thing to consider. Giving away 2k worth of wheel/tire for free. This is about to turn into convince me not to sell my Tacoma group therapy.

 

Even if the tires are shot the wheels are worth $200 - $300.

 

Stay away from trade-in, they are experts at screwing you & making you think you got a good deal. If repaired properly, your Taco is as good a it ever was, even if Car Fax shows damage & decreases $$$ value. For me, the best way to get your value from a Taco is to drive it out. Don't know your situation, Can't help with value.

 

If you’re selling the truck to “make life a little easier”, that sounds like you’re not planning on trading up. I’m gonna guess there’s a huge difference in what the dealer will give you on trade in vs. buy it outright.

 

I have been hit twice (once just like you) and thought i was screwed for value in the future. I was talking to the shop guy and he said stuff like that usually isnt reported to car fax when its just swapping out panels/bumpers. Sure enough, they havent appeared. But if they did, there was no frame issues and i wouldnt worry about disclosing it to a potential buyer.

 

If you have the time and patience, private party is the way to go. I don't know where you are located, but in the greater DC area you would likely find a buyer quickly and get well into the mid to high 20's for that truck. I've had private offers on my '15 with a 4cyl for around $20k, though I will keep this truck until the wheels fall off.

Trade in value on that will hurt, and hurt even more when you see it in the lot a few days later for $6-8K more than they gave you for it.

 

Not sure what you owe on it or what your replacement vehicle will be but you likely won't find a replacement that holds the value, dependability and can make home depot runs for house repairs better than your current vehicle. Just my $0.02..

Edit: well, except a DCLB.

 

The accident won't severely affect private party values so long as it's been repaired properly, you have records of that (pics are even better) AND that it still retains a clean title. If you need a carfax run for it, just shoot me a PM with your VIN.

You will always get more for a private sale compared to trade in. The only time I've seen the opposite was during the clunkers for cash era when you could get $500-1000 for absolute garbage cars.

Not sure where you're located, and I'm assuming it's auto, v6, 4x4, but around here that's a $25-30k truck.
https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/victorville-2014-toyota-tacoma-4-4/7054452795.html
https://bakersfield.craigslist.org/cto/d/bakersfield-2015-tacoma/7059962092.html
https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/ctd/d/redlands-2015-toyota-tacoma-trd-off/7061181092.html

Hell, for $18k I'll buy it, ship it here and make $5k on the sale.

 

If you do private sale via Craig's List or similar only agree to meet "buyer" in public place and take note of his/her license plate on the car they arrive in. In addition, do not take check, money order, or similar. Cash works great. Be especially careful not to take check worth more than the value of your truck and refund balance in cash. I have sold 3 vehicles by CL (one in 6 hours) and never had a problem. One guy wanted to pay by check so we went to his bank to get cash and that worked out fine
Be afraid, be very afraid!

 

clenkeit, that's what I meant in my earlier post, dealers are experts in screwing you & making you think you got a deal. That cash for clunkers thing has been around forever,, they give you $1K trade in for your clunker, you get $1K off, what they tell you, is a $10K vehicle. You could have bought that vehicle for $9K, or less, straight out. Now you still gave the $9K & the dealer sold your clunker to a scrapper for $500 & now has $9,500 for his $9K vehicle. If you had sold your clunker to a scrapper, took that $500, go to dealer & negotiate the $10K vehicle down to $9K & put the $500 from the scrapper on the $9K vehicle, it would have only cost you $8,500. But yeah, he made you think you got a good dead. Dealers "NEVER" give you what you think they are giving you, It just don't happen!!!. But if you're happy I guess it doesn't matter.

 

Consider the tax difference. In most places you only pay tax on the difference when you trade. If you buy a new $40,000 truck in GA the sales tax would be $3000. If I trade in a vehicle and get $18,000 in trade I'd only pay tax on $22,000 instead of $40,000, or only $1650. A savings of $1350. And the dealers have some leeway in determining your vehicles actual value. If your vehicle in perfect condition would be worth $22,000 instead of $18,000 with some damage they can show value as $22,000 on paper to save you even more money. When the tax office values vehicles for tax purposes they only consider age and vehicle type, not condition.

Dealers can, and will play all sorts of games. But if you KNOW what your vehicle is worth, and you KNOW what is a fair price on the new one you can figure out what is a fair difference. Forget everything else. Find out the actual difference they want between your trade-in and the new vehicle so you can compare apples to apples at different dealers. Don't let them concentrate on monthly payment. That is where they will screw you over. Get preapproved ahead of time and make it clear you'll be paying that way.

If you can agree on a fair price it is OK to let them work on a quote for financing, but only after the price has been determined. I've usually find the dealer will beat my banks interest rate by 1/2 to 1%. They want to make a sell. But if you start out talking payment instead of cash sale they will use that info against you.

I usually find it better to trade unless the older vehicle is just a clunker. A $1000-$2000 vehicle isn't hard to sell and $100 either way isn't a huge deal. But for anything over $10K it is a PITA to sell. Everyone wants to low ball you. You have to give up your time to meet possible buyers, you have to advertise and deal with idiots. And with the difference in tax I figure I have to get at least 10% more than the trade offer just to break even. When I factor in my time and hassle I'd need 20% more. I might get 10-20% more if I'm willing to take 2-3 months to sell.

 

You wont get anything for the upgrades,that being said,I think $21-$23k