Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

Very clean work and labeling! How do you get those labels to stay?

 

They look like they are shrink-wrap labels.

Dymo makes shrink-wrap and a hand-held device to print on the shrink-wrap. It's not the cheapest shrink-wrap, but it really is convenient.

 

thank you. It’s actually heat shrink tubing that goes in a label maker like @Scott B. said:

R Molshine 2 Pack 18052 Heat-Shrink Tubes Cable Label Compatible for DYMO Black on Yellow (0.23inch 1/4inch 6mm) 1.5m

Molshine 2 PACK 18052 Heat-Shrink Tubes Cable Label Compatible for DYMO Black on Yellow (0.23" 1/4" 6mm) 1.5m

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D83B59K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1IelEbRRHYCMA

**this is showing black on yellow, but mine is black on white**

DYMO Label Maker | LabelManager 160 Portable Label Maker, Easy-to-Use, One-Touch Smart Keys, QWERTY Keyboard, Large Display, for Home & Office Organization

$40 DYMO Label Maker LabelManager 160 Portable Label Maker, Easy-to-Use, One-Touch Smart Keys, QWERTY Keyboard, Large Display, for Home & Office Organization, Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005X9VZ70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6KelEb7E74XFX

 

I did the very same, pretty cool that I didn't have to modify the power steering fluid reservoir bracket in any way and how the holes lined up perfectly. There's some tearing and separation going on underneath that will require some immediate attention in the near future. Have you noticed the same?

 

That’s a bummer. A ton of ppl I know have sheet metal tipping there. I guess I just got lucky. Mine’s still in tact

 

I love the jacket on that wire. Source?

 

thanks!

25ft - 1/4 inch PET Expandable Braided Sleeving - BlackRed - Alex Tech Braided Cable Sleeve

$9 25ft - 1/4" PET Expandable Braided Sleeving – BlackRed – Alex Tech Braided Cable Sleeve

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WF5K2X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BkFlEbW8E8876

Used 1/8”, 1/4” and 3/8”

 

Well shit, I already have a label maker. I wonder if there are tubes compatible for it. I need to check once I find out what model I have.

 

Clear shrink tube over you label?

 

Stop using common sense Murph!

 

Hey everyone, thought this was a good thread to ask some question since the AV thread doesn't get much action. This summer I am looking into revamping my audio system in my taco. I am going to be upgrading to 3 skar zvx v2 8s behind the seats (its possible), 4 skar fsx 6.5s in the doors, some huge Skar VX4-STs in the a-pillar using customspeakerpod's pods, and some Skar VX35-st in the doors by also using pods from customspeakerpods. I'm not 100% sure on the amps I'm using since the zvxs can handle a LOT of power over their rms. It's going to be 4000w+ and before yall come out of the bushes asking why I'm doing this, its because I like loud boom boom.

Now for the actual questions:
So I know what I'm doing for wiring (0 gauge upgrades, distribution fuse blocks, ect), but I'm not exactly sure which route to take for producing all the volts I need for a system like this. About 15k miles ago, my stock alt went out and it was replaced with an aftermarket alt by a local shop. I imagine this new alt is probably to the same specs as the stock one. Should I go for dual batt, High output alt, or both? I have seen guys who run 4k systems on stock electrical so I know its possible, but I want to do this right the first time. Also, what voltage should I be shooting for with this much wattage draw? I know this thread is mostly oriented to setups for lighting, solar, and others, but I'm sure yall can interpret this for car audio.

Any advice helps. Thanks

 

Drawing that much power I’d suggest a high output alt, voltage booster, and a sealed agm battery or Capacitor at the amp.

4000watts is over 300amps.
A stock Tacoma with tow package alt max is 160A. An upgraded alt will probably be ~260A which while still under is a lot better. If your running the alt at max you will quickly burn them up.

 

Nice BBB. Are you using a Sterling alternator to battery charger? Do you have a build thread? I want to set up a dual battery system down the road and think LiFePo4 is the way to go.

Cheers!
-M

 

Yeah, I love the weight ratio as well as power storage. I completely divorce this system from the truck. I do run a voltage booster to the truck battery (31 series AGM) at 14.7 volts float charge.

I am woefully deficient on my build thread but I do have some more pics. I charge this battery through a MIPP Solar Charger/Inverter all in one. I have 3x100 watt solar panels mounted on top of the truck with a remote monitor installed. The Solar Charger allows you to manually set charge rates and also contains thermal protection for the LiFePO system.

 

Sweet! My buddy that builds out vans was trying to get me to buy a Merlin panel (Group buy thing) a little while back but I am still not ready to put in a second battery. He uses Victron for monitoring. I just got my RLD camper shell on last week and I want to build an Aux fuse system before I get an extra battery. You should do a thread on the details of your electrical set up. Its sweet and I would love to read more about it.

Cheers!
-M

 

@zippsub9 How did you ground this 'divorced' system?

 

The solar inverter/controller is grounded on the frame just below the rear passenger seat by the exhaust.

I will get off my ass and get a build thread together eventually.

 

So, I misspoke before. My solar controller/inverter is not grounded to the truck. I have the PV panels grounded to it, the lithium battery grounded to it as well. My DC accessory panel runs off a ANL fused link to the back of the truck and also is grounded back to the lithium. No accessory or any part of the system is grounded to the frame or chassis.

I recently went back to a single battery under the hood and removed the frame grounding strap to completely segregate the system. Sorry for any confusion.

 

no worry. interesting, grounding leaves me wondering. I have a dual battery under the hood, grounded to chassis/body screw. I'm setting up a Lithium system in the truck bed under a campshell. no grounding wire to chassis. I have read no ground to chassis is OK for small system. I do plan to connect the lithium and AGM starter with an isolated DC/DC charger.

 

a general rule of thumb is to streamline the return of the charge back to its source. Chassis ground typically goes through very small contact points and spot welds. I use these for low current applications. A winch, for example, I go back directly as possible to the source of not exactly. Depending on what and where you want to run off it should help drive your decision. Because our beds are fiberglass composite I was grounded to the frame in the rear. My dual battery setup under the hood had a grounding strap to the frame and the chassis for my accessories to take either path.