El Honcho - 1st Gen Taco build

Maybe a thread file if it's not too bad.

 

If it's far down enough just cut it - my $40 dremel (and $17 grinder but not as smoothly) has allowed me to cut and reshape threads on bolts.

 

I just ordered a die and tap. 5/8 - 18. Hopefully it's 18 threads per inch. I measured and counted 4 times. 18 is what I got. My girlfriend also talked to this guy she works with that does 1st gen Taco mini trucks and he has two 5/8 u bolts he's going to give me. Looking at the u bolts now, it really just looks like one thread on one of the bolts is jacked up. So hopefully one of these options works. Also, I had to buy new poly bushings for the leafs. I bought them from Ruff Stuff. Starting to worry that they may be too small. I figured they were universal in size but now on Kartek I see that the 61.5 springs have different part numbers. Do any of you know if the ones from Ruff stuff will fit the F55? The only other issue that I haven't really addressed is the rear brake hose/line. I'm thinking the cheapest and easiest solution is to buy another stock length one and screw them together. Two stock lines would be plenty. Would that work? The fittings look like I can run two in series.

Got some of my shock tower mini cage thing done today. Need to go buy more DOM tomorrow. I think it should work. Tried making it tall enough to be able to run a 16" one day without completely reworking the cage.

 

You can get a brakeline from Kartek, Deaver would sell you bushings that are a perfect fit

 

Without knowing the rest of your plan, I would say this is good if the tube that parallels the bed rail continues and ties into the frame after the tub.
Other wise this structure will bend. Even with a "strut bar", it would be more beneficial to tie in after the tub.

 

Also Parker can make you a brake line if you need.

 

You can't see it in the pictures but there is also a bed rail support bar triangulated under there.

 

Is this full bump? Do you have pics of your bump stops set up? You are giving up quite a bit of up-travel. You should cut off that factory bump stop mount and the factory spring perch and make that axle bump out against the frame rail (with proper bump stops in place)... this will probably require redoing your shackles, however it is best to get your leafs cycling properly first and worry about shocks second. Shocks are easy to redo when you have bigger/longer ones. Make the leafs work as best as possible now and set your limit straps and bumps as necessary for your shocks.

i'm not a fan of your pinion angle, even after "fixed". your axle will twist in the opposite direction of the rotation of the tire and exasperate that angle at full bump.

 

Yes. No pics of bumps yet but I have already cut off that factory bump perch thing. I'm only running poly bump for right now. Hydro bumps not in budget right now. I got them from Ruff Stuff. They are the 4.5" so I was going to mount them to the frame in that same location and use the factory spring perch as a bump pad. Maybe I didn't say earlier but obviously the 14" shock is my limiting factor right now. I can move the bump up another inch but with the shackle under setup the spring is already going negative at 4" bump. The poly bump I shaved down to 4" with a chop saw. With the 14" the more up travel I go the less down I have so there is a compromise. The picture is with the factory spring perch 4" from the frame. The tire is just barely under the glass. Im' ok with all of this for right now. I have a trip planned so I can't change anything now. Other's have suggested putting the shackle through the frame. I might do that later to get a little more up travel but for right now this is what I have. I got upper shock mounts made today and tacked but it got dark and I was kind of beat. Full droop the factory perch is 20" from frame. 4" bump. 16" of travel. Everything cycles fine. Might make a few tweeks tomorrow.

 

Hydro bumps are super unnecessary, poly's will be fine. Lots of people on very fast trucks run just a poly and they boogey.

Don't forget to account for bump compression + some room for safety. Keep an eye on your rear bumps, the holes in the factory spring perch might start tearing holes in the bumps themselves (I don't actually have experience with this, but its something I'd watch out for) also pay attention to how the bump stops strike the perch. Its possible it isn't wide enough to catch the bump properly, leafs do weird things at speed and under force. I have seen quite a few times where bump stops are missing their bump pads because the pad is not wide enough (I'd run it as is and see if you need to upgrade later).

Don't sweat the length of your shock, you can make your 14" shock swing more than just 14" of travel if you cycle it and lean it forward some. The leafs can handle an inch or two of negative arch as well, I would be conservative and keep it near the 1" of negative to keep your leafs in shape for as long as possible.

This part is the most important. Aside from setting your bumps up correctly to avoid smashing parts, everything I am suggesting is not mandatory. It will lower your COG and make it handle better, but if you are happy then run it and have fun and start tweaking valving when you're ready. Sometime down the line (if you want) you can re-setup your leafs, I'd send them out to Deaver for a re-arch and possibly more leafs. They can make them do what you want, and then you can set the leafs up to bump at the frame (or even above the bottom of the frame ) and switch to a 12" shackle.

Last thing I'll mention. Your shackle appears to be vertical at full droop (I would guess this will be limited and not a big deal), but this can induce a bit of harshness upon initial compression. If you ever re-do your leafs try to limit droop so the shackle has a little angle towards the rear to avoid it being completely vertical.... You most likely wont even notice right now.

 

BUMP UPDATES COMING!!!

 

Got the bed cage finished. Boxed the upper mount. Just have to upload more pics later. Bumps are in. All that is left is brake hose, I broke the two wires that connect to the 2 pin connector on the axle for the E LOCK SENSOR. No biggie. Already took the pins out of the connector to re-solder and add a couple of inches of copper so ensure that it isn't maxed out at full droop. Still have to weld the cage to the frame and mount the shocks but getting real close to being able to drive this beast. Ride height looks PERFECT!!!!!!!!!

ORALEEEEEEEEEEE, pusa las fotas gueyyyyyy.

 

Truck looks great man! Hopefully I get to run see u out and about here in Az, where u gonna take it first for a test?

 

I mainly drive it down in Rocky Point, Mexico. I go about once a month and take a few months off in the summer so about 8-10 trips a year. Every year I do the Boo Bar Poker Run the day after the Super Bowl. Like 60 miles all dirt. Large portions of the trip we're driving about 10 feet from the ocean down the beach. Hopefully I can get everything buttoned up by tomorrow or Wednesday because I'd like to take it out to this quick spot in North Phoenix to test her real fast. Make sure everything is good before I drive 220 miles to Rocky Point. Still trying to decide if I want to put the stock bumper back on. I definitely want to make a simple tube bumper for the rear and incorporate my tow hitch in it. I have a jet ski that I use for fishing, also mostly in Rocky Point but it does get some Lake Plez use too. What part of town are you in?

 

Awesome fab work!!

 

I don't need that brake line - I'll let it go for $25 shipped if you want it.

 

Damn I'm actually really jealous u have the amenity to do trips like that. Sounds super fun and a great experience to have regularly! If u decide to go tube with a hitch incorporation, shouldn't be too hard for ya. Will be excited to see how ur build turns out!

I'm out by ahwatukee off the I 10 and 202 by chandler blvd and 40th street. not a bad area, but fukin chandler blvd STAYS BUSY all day haha

 

Hope you're not playing with me. LOL It's my first time ever fabbing anything so I feel pretty accomplished to tell you the truth. I'm sure the pros might feel different because I didn't use a tube bender and it pry doesn't look as clean as a professional shop but it turned out really well I think. I will post some pics tomorrow of it fully welded to the truck and painted. Shocks are in. Everything is done except the brake hose and still have to solder the connector I broke. I'm really hoping my limit straps will be here tomorrow. I got a discount through PRP and the straps were $20/strap. Cheaper than anything else that I saw. Just hope they arrive tomorrow. I want to get everything wrapped up so I can chill the next few days before heading out of town.