Let’s get this taco to 2.5”

So tomorrow my truck goes into the shop for rack and pinion bushings replaced with some poly bushings, and the time has come to upgrade the suspension up front!

So far I’m leaning towards 2.5 king coilovers. I’ve currently got some 2.5 rust-aways up front that could use a rebuild but finically doesn’t make sense to invest $1k to rebuild them when I can buy brand new kings @ $1200. Besides they basically stuck at the previous owners settings, I’m not really about to adjust them without SAW’s specific coilovers tool, hence why it sits a little lower up front. How difficult is it to rebuild king coilovers yourself?

Secondly, I’ll be looking at UCA’s and from what I’ve seen I think SPC may be the way to go. Anyone currently run them? From what I’ve read they don’t make as much noise at non sealed uca like all pros.

For tires I’m currently on 245/75r16 stt pros on 16” stealth customs. Originally I was going to go with 265/75r16 Toyo MT’s but the 285/75r16 Baja mtz p3 really caught my eye and a lot of the Jeep guys here in Alaska run them and swear by them. Hopefully I won’t have to do any trimming with the new uca’s but time will tell.

Any feedback helps!

 

I figured so, with aftermarket ucas hopefully that’ll save me from having to trim a crazy amount.

 

is this possible with factory ucas? Planning OME lift over the summer with 285/75/16s. If so, what will I need to trim?

 

Are you going extended travel?

I say if you're going to spend the money on coilovers, might as well get a little bit more travel (1" more shock travel) while you're at it. And with the poly bushings, that'll be a nice combo.

Things to consider:

-diff drop (should have one anyway with 2.5" lift)
-Aftermarket UCAs - unsure if these are truly necessary for the ext travel, but also at 2.5" you're likely going to need them for an alignment anyway.

I went with Total chaos uniball UCA's since they have more articulation than a balljoint style. Did I NEED it?

But I have it...


For the back, I'm still running my stock leafs with an extended shackle, and 5100s. My plan is Deaver J59s (1.5" lift) and keeping the 1" shackle for a total of 2.5" lift. Then running skinny 33 KM3's (22/85r16s).

 

255/85-16 on OEM wheels = much lower probably for the need for trimming

 

Is what possible? 2.5" lift and 33's?

Yes, it's possible. But that's right about the limit of where people end up having trouble getting a proper factory alignment.

As for the 33's, you can fit 33's with any lift you desire, it just depends on how much you're willing to trim/hammer.

 

@jbrandt are there different king coilovers? I figured there was only one type that fits our first gen the 2.5 0-3” ones

 

Yes, I have the extended travel version. Or at least they did a couple years ago when I got mine.

They also come with external reservoirs. I found those superfluous for my needs, because with the type of driving I do, I wasn't even seeing my 5100's fade.


https://www.headstrongoffroad.com/store/c90/Performance_Coilovers_.html

These guys definately have Fox and Icon 2.5" standard or extended travel coilovers. It's not clear if they have the ext travel Kings, but call them up and they can get you squared away for sure.

Go for King or Fox of you want a little better of a ON-road ride since they are linear/progressive shocks, vs. the regressive Icons. I'm talking the valving, not the spring rates.

 

I can’t seem to find any extended king coilovers but did find extended ads coilovers w/ resi for basically the same as just normal king coilovers. Just worried that rebuilding ads coilovers won’t be as easy as Kings. I’ll have to do some more research!

 

Parts have been ordered! I’ll definitely keep this post updated once parts are in and installed

 

Just waiting on the front bumper to get here next week.

question, the tg front bumper is bare naked. Should I wipe it down to get the manufacturer protective oil off and spray it with POR-15 or Steel-it?

 

2.5" seems to be the way to go if you are not looking to do major upgrades. I have my build this coming weekend and can update with photos but from all the forums, youtubes, etc. I learned that to go with 285/75/16 and a 2.5" lift I have decided:

Suspension (Bought)

Front:

1) Billy 5100's (already installed with OME 880) w/ OME 881 (wheelers)
2) 1/2" Top plate spacer to correct driver lean & 3/8" top plate spacer on passenger side (wheelers)
-2" top plate stud for added space to install (wheelers)

Rear:

3) Rear leaf springs (already installed) & 1.5" AAL (wheelers)
4) Driveline carrier bearing drop kit (wheelers)


Wheels (Bought)

1) Pro Comp 32 Series Bandido Matte Black Alloy Wheels (4 Wheel Parts)


Tires (Debating)

Open Range A/T from les schwab for that free tire balance & rotate plus living in Colorado a winter rated tire is important to me. I currently run the KO2s which are only A/T and not winter rated. I find that the A/T are "ya, they will do fine" while the winter rated tires grab so much more when there is ice & snow on the ground.

All this being said...I have heard great things with going to 285s but I have also heard bad things. Its all a matter if you want to cut/ trim & have a lower MPG but an awesome look or just go with something less like 265s and not have to mess with it at all. I am still currently debating this as if I want to mess with it or not. Those out there please add pictures to your 285s & 265s with pros and cons to each from your personal experiences so I can also make the best decision for me.

I also want to include that this is my daily but also my weekend explorer. I live in Colorado and I am in the mountains each weekend as an avid hunter, shooter, hiker, etc. and I only find myself on forest service roads. I do not catch myself doing any "wheeling". The most serious place I was in was the Never Summer Wilderness at 12,000ft elevation and a foot of snow on the ground. Its a taco so it mashes through anything but I do not think the 285s fit my lifestyle.

 

You could go wih a 255/85r16, a skinny 33... that’ll get you the height of a 33, but not as much of the weight. Unless you’re in DEEP snow, a tall and skinny tire cuts down to the grpund where there is more traction (usually).

Or a 265/75r16, which is a 32, or just a stock size mud terrain, like the km3.

Thread pattern is more important than diameter. You can usually find a line where your belly doesn’t scrape because it’s lower, but you can’t always find a surface with more traction.

 

I think you should leave it as is , it looks great and is probably more dependable than what it may turn out.

 

Seems to sit pretty level once there’s gear in the bed (5 tires in the bed in this picture)

coilovers and uca combo were a breeze to do, ended up deleting my sway bar. I’ve got a 60 mile drive tomorrow to a ski resort in +12” of fresh snow in the morning so excited to see how it handles on the 2 lane highway out to Alyeska. Extremely pleased with how this ended up, would recommend buy once cry once!