New owner lift questions

Hey guys,

just picked up a 2020 Tacoma. Double cab v6 long box trd sport.

from my reading I think I want to do a Bilstein 5100 suspension lift on the front and add a leaf on the rear. I’ll be pulling a boat and occasionally an atv in the bed. 98% on road driving, maybe once or twice a year off road, light trails.

I want some lift to allow for larger wheels later. I like the lower profile tire look with bigger rims rather than the off-road, thick side walled tire look. Ideally I want the truck to be level. I also like the wheel poke look, nothing crazy just a little wider. I want to keep it economical but not risk anything like with a spacer lift. On road Performance is still important and I like the factory settings.

I’m wondering about a few things:

do I need to replace the rear shocks?

do I need a differential drop or shims to avoid vibration?

is there anything I should look out for, or be concerned about?

Any suggestions are appreciated!

 

Yes.
Maybe.
Yes.
I suggest you read here and learn to navigate with the search bar so you can be self reliant. Good luck

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...2016-tacoma-presented-by-toytec-lifts.395798/

 

Ok, thanks. Spent a lot of time trying to find answers. Originally I was set on doing a spacer lift kit and this site quickly got me off that idea. The link creates many more questions. Maybe I will be more specific because I would like to understand why. Maybe my technical knowledge is not up to the par of this forum...

Can I use the bilstien 5100 shock with factory spring? If not what is the concern and why?

why does the rear shock get replaced when doing an add a leaf?

how will I know whether to do shims or a differential drop? Is one better than the other to fix vibration?

 

Yes you can use factory spring with 5100's. Long shock for rear, when adding an add a leaf. Shim, is recommend 1 degree for every inch of lift. As for diff drop, you will get answers all over the board on that. I used it, some like it, others hate it, and think it's useless.

 

Do a spacer lift if you aren't doing jumps or running over rough terrain fast. Get appropriate bumpstops to work with the spacers. Put a progressive AAL pack in the rear, and call it a day. You'll retain factory shocks. Stiffen up the rear a little. Gain a lift and still only have spent less than $300.

You don't need new rear shocks if you're only lifting 1.5" in the rear.

You won't know if you need to correct the driveline angles until after you lift the rear. Measure current u-joint angles now. Before lift.

 

Yes you can use the factory coil with the 5100 shock. The suspension up front might feel "stiffer" as the preload on the factory coil when paired with the 5100 will increase the spring rate.

Some people replace the rear shock. It may be for various reasons.
1) they are stupid
2) they want more articulation
3) they are rich
4) someone told them to

We have a two piece drive shaft which allows you to make adjustments to the angles in two places: rear pinion and center carrier bearing. No one is greater than the other. However, most people will try to adjust the carrier bearing first because it is much easier to do so

 

You can use a 5100 with stock spring as long as you keep the height the same. You start messing with upping the height of the 5100 and use the stock spring you will cause preload and have a bad ride. Also, I think that voids the 5100's warranty by using stock springs with increased clip setting. Not a big deal though considering how cheap 5100's are.

You're adding height to the rear with leaf springs when that rear shock is not accustomed for that the travel of that added height. Matched suspension valving as the front is also a bonus. Don't you want the front and rear shocks to preform similarly?

You won't know with shims or diff drop until the lift is actually on your truck. You could be fine without depending on lift height. Some people have to have them and some don't. Each truck will react differently concerning vibes.

 

Thanks to everyone for the great Info. Much clearer to me now

 

If you want some good info and direction, along with pricing. Email/call Headstrong Off road, they will set you up with what you need/info. Their on here a lot.

 

ok so I’m pretty set on doing a 2” rear lift with add a leaf and replacing the shocks for longer travel shocks and a 2 degree shim.

To level it and keep from pre loading the spring too much I’m thinking of doing the Bilstein 5100 at 1” of lift using the preload adjustment and a 2” spacer. My understanding is that it is the rear block life that is a real concern and the front spaces seem to be pretty reliable.

Is this a feasible solution? Is my logic correct or does a spacer cause preload also?

 

I'd look into the bilsteins 6112/5160 setup personally. But nothing wrong with the lift you are looking at.

 

Rear blocks are fine when limited. A 2" or less block is fine and will actually retain stock ride quality, so it's really up to you.

 

Why not ask a suspension shop in your locale that does tacoma work all the questions that you asking here ? They should be more then willing to answer and give reasons just get your business .

 

Then why even have a forum?

 

it's the suspension folks job mon - fri

 

5) all of the above

 

OK, new rule I guess, only can talk suspension sat-sun.

 

sorry I didn't mean to offend . didn't know you were a tech or business owner my apology

 

For 1 there are none.

2) I don’t have to question the motivations of the people on here and wonder if they are just trying to sell me something

3) the people here may have personal experience with my exact needs

 

Not offended.
Absolutely not a tech, I'd rather throw myself off a building.
Not a business owner either.
I just think it's silly you discourage people from discussing things on a discussion board. Seems..... Odd.

Do you normally think that people who disagree with you are offended? Seems like there might be some projecting going on.