first case of trail rash

Good paint work is $$$ but good paint work you’ll never know it was repainted

When safelite destroyed my truck, I had estimates between $3,000 and $7,500 for repair. The majority of that difference was the cost of proper prep and blending for paint. Good news, you’d never know it if i didn’t tell you. Some places significantly cut corners and it’s easy to tell when you see the work in person.

 

That hurts coming from you, but I probably deserve it. Cheers!

 

This was not helpful. Please elaborate

 

...and some crappy Kevlars.

Sorry about that, I can imagine how it all started out fun at first and then it all ended so suddenly. Really have to get some good tires for that offroading stuff.

 

LOL, just keep the rubber side down.

 

@gudujarlson I just got some similar damage on my 2019 OR - it’s literally 1 year old, such a f’in bummer.

Good luck whichever route you decide to go. I’m going to get mine fixed - doesn’t feel right driving around a brand new smashed up truck.

 

I’d say, good thing you were not injured. Also, good on you for using your truck. I feel like some people take these pieces of metal a little too serious. Yeah it’s new but it can be fixed. It’s also your truck, paid for that is.

I’ve got some trail damage too, although it could have been avoided if my spotter was paying attention. I’ll eventually get it fixed. It happens when offroading.

I do like the idea of flatbed, 40s and caged!

 

I would not worry about the body shop matching fit or finish, although that gash in the cab looks like a challenge.

I would be more concerned about laying out $2.5k and making the truck look pretty, and then either banging it up again doing what you like or being afraid using the truck doing what you like because you want to keep it pretty.

I take very good care of my vehicles and haven’t wheeled them, but “shit does happen “ and at the end of the day, as long as it runs tip top, a few scars don’t really matter.

I also want to add I like the way you handled yourself in the thread. I respect that you didn’t get bothered by anyone’s comments and didn’t give anyone reason to not keep the discussion civil.

Hope everything works out the way you want.

Cheers!

 

Thumbs up for that!

 

I brought the truck in to the shop for an estimate today. I haven’t got the official estimate but I did talk to the estimator. He seemed knowledgeable and told me they would likely replace the side of the bed, the sheet metal section around the rear door, and the front fender. He mentioned that the entire side of the bed is a bolt on piece that requires no cutting or welding, however they would likely need to remove the entire bed. After that they will paint the whole side of the truck. It all sounds very labor intensive.

I feel a bit better about the prognosis knowing that I will be getting all new sheet metal without cutting and welding or a lot of fiberglass and bondo. The paint and corrosion resistance are my primary worries.

As far as corrosion resistance, I’m not sure if Toyota does anything more than paint the metal. It seems likely that they do more than that based on my experience with 1980’s trucks vs 2000+ trucks. The last thing I want is a whole ton of rust on one side of the truck. I might do some research on the subject.

 

The dealer will paint the truck better than Toyota did at the factory .

 

The steel used for the parts is as important as the paint. Make sure they don't use inferior parts. I've had no problems with Toyota rust over the years - not counting the frame rust I have seen on TW.

 

Dealerships don't do their own bodywork

 

Also unless you specifically bought the extra coverage on your insurance chances are you will get aftermarket parts, they don't tell you that when you buy the insurance. Just dealt with all this.

 

I found this useful.

https://rts.i-car.com/collision-repair-news/corrosion-protection-guidelines-toyota-lexus.html

 

At least some of sheet metal is coming from Toyota.

 

Subbed, waiting on the estimate.

 

They will have to do some welding here, maybe some cutting. To get that dent out of the cab side they will either cut out the old panel and weld in a new one, or they will use something called a "stud gun" it welds small pins to the sheet metal so you can pull the dent out with a slide hammer. Either way, you will want to make sure they spray the back side of any panel they do work on.

If you ever see old cars with rust holes in a line along a body panel, these are from stud guns not being sprayed after use. The stud gun burns the paint off the back side resulting in a easy rust area. Most of the time they wont clean or spray these areas because they are behind other parts and cant easily be cleaned, prepped and painted.