first case of trail rash

Since you paid cash for the truck, and have a stupid-high deductible.... Why not just pay cash for the repairs? I have a feeling saying “I slid my truck into some trees in a field” is going to raise your rates even more.

 

Some do....and they use OEM parts on all or almost all of the repair. Been there, had that done.

 

I just had 15k in repairs done. Learned they will only use oem if it is same price as aftermarket. I called and talked to the insurance, then the body shop, they suprised me this is very much the usual

 

That could be. He didn’t say the section of sheet metal around the door was bolt on. He did say that the replacement part would either be the partial section from the bottom of the door to the top or the full section surrounding the entire door. I assume the partial section would require welding, but I’m less sure about the full section.

He did not mention a stud gun. It sounded like they intend to replace all the damaged sheet metal.

 

Sounds like you found the perfect combination of all 3.

I would get it all fixed. If you plan to have it forever, you don't want cracked out mirrors, massive dents in the bed panels, etc. I'm in the same boat, I have a truck, I bought it to abuse, I'm going to abuse it, it will get some scratches and dents I'll live with. Those....I'd at least do a DIY hammer and bondo fix. If you plan to trade it in eventually, just be upfront about the damages - take the hit at the trade in value, and don't be out the downtime to have the truck repaired in a shop (3-4 days?). Instead, dump it on the dealer, pay the same (maybe less) for the repairs, and don't have it out of commission. Just my 0.02.

 

If they are going to replace the back part of the cab, the need to remove the rear window, drill out the spot welds there, drill out the spot welds at the rear panel going down, drill out the spot welds in the pinch weld (where the door seal is) drill out the spot welds at the roof line under the black weather stripping. They will then need to splice the panels in with the rocker and area above door. Normally this panel comes as a whole side, but they want to just use a section.

It would be far better cost/time efficient to use a stud gun to pull out the dent, then fill and sand it.

 

So there is an alternative here for you. If you plan on wheeling more that is. Replace the fender and box side leave the cab corner, have it sprayed or rattle can it. Replacing that cab corner will be extensive and expensive. It requires partial interior removal, cutting, welding, filling, priming painting and interior install! And lots of labour! Labour is the expensive part. Replace the fender and box side yourself if you can and get back to enjoying the truck.

 

Thank you for all the info. You seem very knowledgeable about the subject. Do you do body work for a living?

 

I have seen cars with those holes. Lol. I also had a windshield replaced after an ice chunk fell off an overpass and spewed glass all over my face. Years later rust formed along the edge of the windshield. I figure they didn’t seal it properly.

 

The windshield rust is from the glue cutter they use, its a blade that vibrates real fast, many times they go too far and hit the paint, then they dont seal it up correctly when putting in the new windshield.

I went to school for autobody and glass, and spent a number of years right out of school in a body shop... we saw it many times.

 

Also BTW, I live in MN also, I worked for Bonfes auto body in saint paul for a number of years.

 

The closest I got to real body work was when I was 17 and I had 1981 Datsun pickup that had so much rust that I lost large objects out of the bed and my passengers got soaked when I drove through puddles. When I would lock myself out of my truck, I could reach up through the door and work the latch.

I tried to make this truck (my prize possession) beautiful again with sandpaper, tin snips, fiber glass, and bondo. All that happened is that my clothes filled with glass fibers and my fingers full of bondo. The truck rusted all over again I’ve always been one to learn by my own mistakes.

 

No shit? Bonfe’s is where I got the estimate. I live about 2 miles away.

 

I had a old chevette that you could open the doors by reaching into the rust holes. Good old MN cars.

 

I worked there from 2003-2006, the stop light right infront of the place was a death trap. But, I always got lunch at Mickeys Diner down the street.

They do good work, plus they have that nice 2 level parking garage for all the cars they work on.

 

I received the estimate and it as you described. They intend to repair the cab rather than replace parts of it.

He estimated just short of $6000 for the whole thing including sales tax.

 

Tell them dont skimp on the rust fighter-I (its a waxy spray for rust proofing)

 

I have the truck back. It looks as good as the day I drove it off the dealer lot. It smells funny, but I’m guessing that is the cost of doing business.

There is one concern though. There is a loud rattle coming from the front passenger seat area when driving over bumps. Through a process of elimination I think I have isolated it to something loose in the front passenger door. If I shake the door I can hear a soft rattle. The rattle is louder when driving the truck. The same rattle is not heard when shaking the other doors. They repaired but didn’t replace the door. Whatever could the noise be?

 

Might be one of the clips that holds the sail panel on (little triangle at the front of the door) Everyone always drops them when they remove that panel (you have to remove it to remove the mirror)

 

That don't look like "trail rash"