Cannot remove rear rotted drums. Any tricks? Need to replace fuel lines + fittings + wheel clyinder

Be glad you don't have a 03 Chevy in the north country. They sell nickel coated brake line up here by the mile they stock cab corners and rocker panel by the dozens. News flash Chevy frames rot as badly as Toyotas Chevy does not replace them. It is what it is trying to protect a old truck probably is a fool's errand you gotta start day one. I fluid film mine every year after pressure washing the entire underneath I mean everything that resembles steel backing plates for the brakes inside the frame all of the brake lines, suspension etc by the time I'm done there is no doubt I'll ever rust it's not a fun job but my frame is still black. Good luck with your endeavors they are tough trucks and worth fixing if they are not too far gone.

 

oohhh, do you mean the T section on the axle itself?

 

Yes, precisely that T splitter of the brake line - front main flex tube to two steel lines that terminate at wheel cylinders in both drum brakes.
That's what I hacked out and am replacing.
And yes it sits bolted on top of the rear axle.

 

Got the driver side rebuilt and wheel back on.
On the passenger side, the bellcrank is working correctly (surprise) so I may leave it alone.

However, someone stripped one of the drum threaded holes to 'push' the drum off the hub / axle face.
So I had the one working side able to pry the drum off a little and hosed all the holes down with PB Blaster just now.

Anyone tried a heavy duty puller on something like this?

 

just be careful with too strong a puller, you don't want to bend any of the mechanisms that work the shoes.

another thought, did you replace all the components on the driver's side or reuse the same ones?

if they looked OK and reuse you could always clean thoroughly and thin coat paint them if rusted.

also, here is when I replaced my bell crank: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/you-know-its-time-to-replace-when.548626/

 

I installed new shoes and new hardware kit too. I re-used the adjustment bolt which was in good shape and lubed it with moly LI grease. I didn't touch the bellcrank. The adjuster bolt on outside was seized anyway, and pulling the handbrake a lot seemed to set it nicely.

 

just keep an eye on them, mine were fine during certain times and then just seized up. since you have it apart if you have time just replace them, the Dorman kit comes with all the hardware needed

 

The Dorman kit I got was absolutely horrible. The metal was broken and cracked at a 90 degree bend. Looks like the worst metal I've ever seen stamped made in China.
We got a second one and it was barely any better. So I am a little leary of the Dorman kit. I might post a pic it was so grim looking right out of the box.

 

The rear brakes are so worthless I think I would just cap off the line under the hood if it gave this much trouble.

 

Yea, those are shit. If you're replacing ANYTHING rear brake (shoes, drums) most folks say nothing but more problems with cheap China parts.

 

Agreed Crux. Just got a 5 ton Everbilt loaner puller. Trying that next. Fingers crossed.

 

Did you remember to grease the back of the shoes where they contact the backing plate? If not.... well...... ehhhhhh.... you decide

 

I bet you will never forget this project... I replaced my homes roof myself last summer and will NEVER EVER EVVVVER forget that seemingly never ending abortion

 

I just got it all back together. I bled all four brakes with the passenger rear first, then driver rear, then back to pass rear for good measure, passenger front, driver front.
Short test drive: The parking brake idiot light is on. The parking brake is all the way released. The truck rolls on the slightest incline/decline so the parking brake isn't locked on.
I didn't do any adjustment to the bellcranks on either side as the adjuster bolt was frozen solid, and so puny it was starting to twist on itself if I tried to turn the bolt heads.

The puller didn't work to get pass drum off. Puller was wrong size and tiny.
Finally hit the lottery and with only 3 bolts in this house to choose from some completely random upsized bolt actually fit in the other side of the drum (someone must have tapped it bigger) and I was able to walk the drum right off using the two push bolts.
PB Blasting it for several hours with one side pried out a little helped a lot I believe. And hammer blows.

 

Yes Racheldaddy I did moly LI grease the plate spots (6 of them) on each side plus the adjuster bolt etc...
Hey! I did my roof and garage roof too solo about 4 years ago too. I will never ever forget that hellstorm of endless work. 28 days I think it was.

 

I'm sure checked but you might want to make sure your brake fluid level is correct. I know the idiot light will come on if the level is too low. That won't solve the parking brake not working however. Also, I HATE disc brakes.

 

Interesting. I love discs. triple Nissin discs dual pistons on a sport bike - that's pretty heavenly.
I did have the fluid to the max level. Good tip to know - had no idea idiot light could be triggered with low level.
https://youtu.be/GESkNVEDfjk

 

make sure the E-brake handle is all the way in inside the cab, it needs to make contact with the switch to show it's released. when my E-brake components were seized or it was winter they would stick and not let the handle return to rest

 

I did make sure it's all the way in. At least as best I can on this model. It has in 'in dash / under dash' hand grip. It likes to stick and I guess you have to pivot it to release it. But it's as far back down to floor and handle flush to dash.

Another thing! Last night I test drove it and the CEL is still lit up. All this madness started with me simply needed to replace the bank 1 sensor 1 "oxygen sensor" ok Air/Fuel sensor really.
I can't recall - will that reset itself of do I have to reset it once it's fixed? Naturally I lent my scan tool and it's in northern Vermont at moment :/

 

Mine took all summer. I could only afford to buy 8-10 bundles at a time, plus the meatheads who put the old roof on tarred the shingles to the ice/water sheild. It sucked baddddddddd. I would have rather done your brakes a dozen times with only a pair of channel locks. Plus, I was afraid of heights which I got over quickly running from hornets strip some, shingle some, repeat allll summer. Ehhhhhh