What are you paying for 2020 Tacomas?

I bought my fist car in 1988, it was a 5 speed manual Olds Calias. I've owned 19 vehicles since then and all but 2 of them have been manuals. Diving a manual is the default for me, so driving a manual in any situation doesn't bother me at all, but the 6 speed auto in this truck is the worst auto I've ever driven which, admittedly, isn't many. As crazy as it may seem, I'm actually considering trading my brand new DCLB OR auto on a special ordered DCSB OR manual. I hate it that much.

 

Bought my pro back in Oct for 48k (then you add in taxes) and the total was something like 51 or 52k. Mine didn't come with the additional 3m type protection or the snorkel (whatever they want to call it). I transitioned from a 08 FJ TTSE, so I wanted something with a cool color....Army green!

 

Hey man, it’s all in what makes each of us individually happy in all honesty. I’m sure I’d love my truck in a manual , but I’m glad I got the auto for many reasons. Your auto will go through a learning period for several thousand miles or so and should get a bit better as well. I’ve become a man of all transmissions these days. Chevy S10 is a 5 speed manual , Taco is the 6 auto and my Vette is a auto and a manual. Each has their pros and cons. EDIT........ I want what I think is the last real drivers car. A ZL1 1LE Camaro with a manual. Unfortunately my woman is stuck on trading the C7 Z51 in on a C8 Z51 next year. No manual option on the C8 at all. It’ll be like our C7. A auto that can be driven as a manual with paddle shifters. I prefer a old man stick poking out of the center console.

 

You got a 2020 for sticker then ?

 

Yes....well kinda. My sales guy here in Virginia said they make sure they don't screw us over by going more than $500 over the sticker price. I guess that's why I have bought 5 vehicles from the same dealer, same sales person! lol And this was back in October when some dealers were jacking prices up.

 

Cool cool. Yeah , fuckk any dealer charging over MSRP for ANY VEHICLE from any manufacturer. There’s a sucker born every day. Glad you aren’t one.

 

It really depends on the dealer. I had small dealers not even want to play that game or they wanted to charge me MSRP for a "special order." I ultimately got my truck through a high-volume dealer that was selling certain configurations so quickly I was able to walk in and put a deposit on one that was being built and got it for ~14% off MSRP.

 

I'm half tempted to see if I pick mine up tomorrow being the last day of the month if they would take the pay off to get that sale in for the month.

 

About two weeks ago I bought a loaded 2020 DCSB TRD Sport MT w/ LED headlights, and Premium in Cement. I'd been looking for about two months and finding a MT with the Advanced Tech Package is not easy! Manuals comprise only about 5% of dealer inventory here with that narrowing down as you add packages. There was one truck that had all the packages I wanted in the Seattle area but they were very tight with discounting because of how "rare" the truck was. After two failed rounds of negotiations I expanded my search to Portland and was lucky to find the exact same truck at two dealers down there who were more willing to deal for a sale. I was first person to test drive it (had one mile on it when I asked for photo of Monroney and odometer).

MSRP was $42,283 and they'd already put on their "Green Car Package" which included door edge, door cup protection, and some warranty freebies like complimentary door ding removal, windshield chip repair, etc. that they value at $895 (a lot of margin in there ).

They quickly offered the "Green Car Package" at $0 with a simple ask, and after a few days of negotiating we settled at $3300 dealer discount + $1000 Toyota rebate for a total discount of $4300 or 10.2%. They also gave me a bed mat for free.

The only dealer fee was a $115 doc fee which is allowed per Oregon state law + direct government fees (registration/tabs + sales/use tax). There was no trade in (even with the sales tax offset, it still made sense to sell privately by my calculations). Price after doc fee before government taxes was $38,098.

 

Quote doesn’t do sht. Otd price will be much higher

 

I pay 350without tax with 0 down, for lease. I got 4x4 sport with tech package

 

In, CA, NV, and AZ, you can get an OffRoad, with tech, and other options, adding up to between $39K and $40K MSRP, for between $35K to $35.5K, without tax and lic, which are different for each state. Doc fees varied, but were within $150 bucks of each other. It’s worth noting, some dealerships gave free service, for a couple years.

Average discount was $4200 under MSRP. I mean, that was the best 4.

 

if your happy at that moment w price you paid does it really matter if someone else paid say 1-2k less? think about it time to go look and haggle w prices. factor in mthly payments its not much difference. buy today enjoy today tomorrow isn't for sure

 

OTD price is irrelevant, since everyone pays different taxes, fees, etc.

 

I too found that comment bizarre.

 

OTD price is important for identifying any excessive dealer fees tacked onto the deal that are presented as non-negotiable. For example, some states like WA and OR have a cap of about $150 on documentation fees. I worked with several Ford and Toyota dealers as part of my auto shopping and widely found that none of the dealers here tried to charge any additional dealer fees beyond the max documentation fee.

In other states, I've heard of outrageous documentation fees as high as $700 presented as non-negotiable that are just there to pad the dealer margin on a deal. There are other dealer fees hiding as marketing fees, additional delivery fees, non-optional "options" and other dealer fees that are not government taxes and fees. A deal with a $2000 discount + $1000 documentation fee and a deal with a $1150 discount and a $150 documentation fee are the same deal effectively.

Don't forget the big unknown of trade ins. Dealers make money on the vehicle sold and potentially more money on the trade in which they mark up to sell. If you aren't trading in a vehicle, you're depriving the dealer of additional margin which makes them less likely to discount the vehicle sold.

For purposes of comparing who go the better deal, OTD price inclusive of any government fees and taxes for sales/use tax, property taxes, licensing, tags, etc is irrelevant. Those amounts vary wildly from state to state. Washington state King County (Seattle) charges 10.4% use tax + about 1.45% for tags/registration because there is no income tax nor personal property taxes on vehicles. North Carolina charges a 3% sales/use tax on vehicles sold, modest car tab fees, but taxes autos every year as real property just like a house. Oregon has a very high income tax and no sales tax, although they do charge 0.3% on vehicle sales.

The best way to compare deals is to:
1) Declare the MSRP
2) Declare the dealer discount
3) Declare any Toyota factory rebates or bonus cash or "trade in assist"
4) Declare any additional warranties, gap insurance, or accessories purchased.
5) Declare any extras negotiated in for a discount or free (a bed mat for example)
6) Declare whether a vehicle was traded in and at what price
7) Declare KBB/Edmunds Dealer Trade In Value and Private Sale Value
8) Declare any dealer fees such as doc fee (fees that are not collected on behalf of the government. Be careful here, dealers like to play games here!)

 

I don’t think you mean OTD which implies total cost with TTL. Agree markups and dealer fees are a part of the price and should be included in the prices people are reporting here. Taxes and license are irrelevant to what kind of deal you got because they have no impact on how successful someone was at negotiating a price any more than how much it cost you to fill it up when you left the lot.

I guess MSRP is the wrong way to put it too. Maybe dealer price or price before taxes and license.

 

For unscrupulous dealers, they may hide dealer fees as TTL. The key thing is to declare all the variables of a transaction and never focus on monthly payments.

 

My dealer tried to assess me an 'inventory tax' of about $76. This is the tax a dealer pays, but they tried to pass it on to me. They hid it in the taxes line item on the deal sheet. When I caught this they took an additional $76 off the negotiated price. So they still charged me for the 'inventory tax' but took it off the top end. It was only $76 but ...

 

With invoice pricing now available to the public dealers will try to squeeze every nickel and dime out of you.