TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

You should just cut part of the shock mount out. But you’ll only know this if you call since it’s not in the instructions.

Sounds like Dirt Designs

 

Dirt designs long travel kit. Both of the uni-balls are oriented vertically. They seem to shed debris easier.

 

No. The only thing there that you have to remove and put on the new assembly are the strut tops, but those really don't go bad on our trucks.

 

What clutch are you planning to use?

 

Ah ok. I’ve heard mixed reviews that’s a new take on it. I’m pretty lazy cleaning it but give it a good wipe and lube ever few K. I see all the rusted ones with covers but to side wise version works too. I was debating converting to delta joints. Heard it’s plug and play on TC.

 

I wonder if they are Plug N Play on the Dirt Slut control arms also.

If not, then they are definitely Plug N Pray.

 

Spec 3+

 

if i can get away with it ill keep my stock. unless kings wont fit. then spc is for me.

 

I’ve found that lubing the uniballs allows dirt and debris to get trapped in them prematurely wearing them.

I don’t use lube anymore and haven’t had any issues or noises. I just clean them with soap and warm water after trips or the rare occasion i get to the carwash.

 

More caster makes a huge difference in drivability for that platform.

On my LS430 I had the alignment guy give me 7.5 degrees of caster and I didn’t notice anything.

 

Holy crap. 7.5 degrees positive. I used to run 9 on my GTO. That thing would track straighter than a metrosexual at a gay bar.

 

Holy crap that’s a lot of caster. I’m running close to 5* which from my understanding is a reasonable midrange for an off-road truck that sees some street. What was the factory spec for the LS430?

 

Read this as I posted mine and got confused about what I said lol

 

How do you get confused about what you are saying? I just like to poke fun at you guys sometimes, don't take it personally. I'm a fair target also, as we are all equally degenerate boost mod junkies.

5* is a lot for a truck. That being said you have LT and the Dynamics of the truck as a whole are different. You are no longer running OE style stuff.

I still think 5* is a lot for a truck and the most I would ever like to see on one is around 4*... If your truck tracks nice and straight though and you aren't getting uneven tire wear due to rolling camber caused by higher than average caster I wouldn't worry too much about it.

 

Well I pulled the trigger on a pair of Delta Joints for my Dirt Slut arms. I hope it helps quiet down my craptastic junker, as I'm really tired of squeaking. The lowers are anyone's guess though. If it goes away entirely AWESOME! That's one less noise to worry about.

I gotta work on securing my backseat sub box though, it moves and makes noise sometimes and I can't stand it. I need some shorty L brackets which are precise made to the height of my back wall bolts. I don't want them to look ghetto using some water heater hold down strapping which has the multiple holes on it. Ideas?

 

Oh it went straight alright. What I meant to say was on that car I didn’t notice a whole lot with caster change from 6 to 7.5. On my old 4Runner I could tell the difference between 3.5 degrees and 4.0.

I believe the screen showed “green” for anything under 7.8 degrees. The car is unbelievably easy to align. Took maybe 3 minutes total for both sides of fiddling with the cams to get that 7.5.

 

1.5* is quite a bit of change for caster. A car has inherently different dynamics than a truck or SUV though and can benefit.from a lot of caster. Dodge Charger (Chargeher) and Chrysler 300 come with massively high caster from the factory at 8.5-9 degrees and they track mega straight all day long. It does a reach a point on trucks where too much caster will make the wheels harder to turn due to the suspension being pointed so forward. So you gain straight tracking capability but you lose turnability at a standstill factor. Not that you want to sit there and lay into your steering left or right super hard while the truck is at a standstill, it's always better to move the wheels as you moving, even if ever so slightly.

 

Spec stage 3+ on the way. That is one expensive clutch.

 

i have a similar issue. just need better weather. im going to pull the sub and run bolts from the inside out.

 

come on guys help @GT7 out super deal here.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/stroker-cams-rods-pistons-4-0.649904/