Cannot remove rear rotted drums. Any tricks? Need to replace fuel lines + fittings + wheel clyinder

You can clear it by disconnecting the negative for 5 minutes. Resets everything

 

I should stop posting so late. I LOVE dics brakes, and HATE drum brakes. And carburetors.

 

Both have their applications.....

 

My cousins 2010 Silverado looks like Swiss cheese . I swear that lifting trucks helps prevent that. Those Chevys sit wicked low

 

Yeah... I hate carbs too. I've gotten very intimate with a certain Kawasaki's many times. Maybe I should say I hate ethanol (and big corn too).
That roof - wow. And I thought my roof was a bear. The south facing side of my garage looked almost identical to your picture.

Oh, and FWIW, my parking brake idiot light went out.
Also my CEL finally went out after two cold starts, 4 warm starts and 15 miles.... for about 3 hours and 30 miles... and then it came back.
Truck flunked inspection (even while the light was out - report said 2 tests were 'incomplete') but has a 60 day grace on the emissions fail to fix it.
(Hmmm... may have to start another thread if I can't make it stay away...)

 

you may have the infamous issue with the Drive Cycle

https://www.smogtips.com/smog-question/3784/How-To-Complete-Toyota-Tacoma-Drive-Cycle

 

Thank you for the link. I knew there was something involved like this, like 2 (stone) cold starts and so many minutes hwy driving etc etc... and stop and go. I did not realize the 1/4 - 3/4 full gas tank and not below or above, or that there could be so many variables to get the systems all 'ready'.
But this is great stuff to know and could be crucial next time I get the truck and reset the codes with my scan tool and will want to get it to pass inspections ASAP so I can return the truck to my cousin same day.

 

some have mentioned that just resetting the codes do not "clear" the actual code, just the light until it triggers again. most up to date inspection/smog places will plug into OBDII port and read that an error has been cleared and fail it immediately.

another member here who needed this to pass smog said it took weeks for the cycle to finally start and complete, and without them trying to do it, just randomly did it and cleared itself. so it may be many drive days to get it's baseline and numbers back to get a final avg to kick off the process

 

The big thing I'm concerned about is dropping $125 on the new Denso A/F "O2" sensor is not going to solve this problem.
I've been quite busy and didn't know how to resistance test the old one and didn't want to take the time (and didn't have the truck either), so I simply ordered that from RockAuto.
I'm not as worried I cannot get the code to go away and pass - I'm more worried I didn't solve the P0135 problem somehow with new sensor. I can barely see any of the electric leads / wires down there - but what I did see all looked fine.
The old sensor looked very blackened / sooty and didn't surprise me it might have failed by the visual.

This same code hit me 3 years ago. And a used incorrect part # toyota Denso sensor (random from a "taco chopper / reseller") solved it that time and the CEL stayed off for two+ years.
I will resistance test the original one that came in the truck (that failed), the used one (that likely failed) this weekend when I get back to the parts pile. Hoping that will shed light on this, and that they both test bad.

Also, in the meantime the truck was returned to my cousin last night and I'll have him drive it for a week or so and then try to get out there with my scan tool to see what's happening.