Frankenstein Build: Stock -> 37's on IFS -> SAS

Haha no problem! Glad the message is spreading. I think Rustoleum/Lowes/Home Depot knows it's a failure which is why it's so cheap. I cant imagine putting this stuff on a car and expecting it to protect against salt, dirt, and whatever else flies up at your frame.

 

Interesting that you guys both had problems with the AP bumper hitting the radiator. I have the taller auto trans radiator in my truck and had no issues with my AP Baja bumper hitting the radiator. I wonder if they changed the design slightly as my bumper is older.

Edit: looking closer at your bumper, the design of the bottom is different and has more metal/bracing than mine does. I guess that is what you're radiator was hitting on.

 

Yea you're right. The older design had the tubular lower hoop area versus the plated lower area on mine & @ForestRunnerFrank99

 

I suppose they redesigned that bottom portion because mine (older design) does leave the radiator pretty exposed. But they should have made it so the taller rad fits because that essentially leaves everyone who wants the Baja bumper and has an auto trans sol haha.

 

True. Although if they made the lower portion taller, i'd imagine that the front IFS skid plate they sell wouldn't install correctly.
For me it was contacting on the sides of that section so they could have made the lower portion wider and it prob would have fit.

If I was an auto, i'd prob just relocate my trans cooler to an aux cooler elsewhere on the vehicle like some others have done. Still a pain in the ass and more money in the end though unfortunately.

 

Yep this is exactly where mine was hitting too. If it was 2" wider it would have fit perfectly.

Interesting. I wonder why they changed the design? I'm curious if people were busting their radiators with the old design.

 

No idea but I like the new design better imo. More beefy

 

Well, I learned a valuable lesson this week, always always ALWAYS triple check your work!




Last weekend I was working on my truck way too late at around 2AM. I was doing some final adjustment to my new coil-overs. I thought I had finished everything so I put the wheels on, lowered the truck, and tightened them to spec. Well I realized I forgot to put the retainer bolt in the coil-over adjustment so I jacked the truck back up, put them in, put the wheels on just hand tight, and lowered it to finish torquing the wheels. Well when I finished lowering the truck I tripped on a tool and I decided I should start cleaning. When I finished cleaning I did a mental check of everything and I remembered I torquing the wheels, BUT I TORQUED THEM BEFORE I TOOK THEM OFF FOR A SECOND TIME. If i had just got the torque wrench and checked I could have saved myself a ton of money, but in my mind I had already torqued them.

I was driving down the freeway when I started to feel a terrible vibration. I started to get over to the shoulder when suddenly my wheel came flying off! I hit the retaining wall pretty hard but thankfully I was already slowing down and it only seemed to bump the truck out of alignment and scratch my wheel (thank goodness I had oversize tires!). My rotor slid on the ground for about 50' and shaved a good chunk of it off. My wheel rolled about a mile down the freeway and at some point crossed all 5 lanes of traffic without hitting anyone. Pretty scary but I am fine and my truck has made a full recovery.

Thankfully nobody was hurt and this was my only damage (along with my my self esteem):

Lost 5 lugs and all 6 nuts on 1 side and 2 nuts on the other side. I decided to replace all 12 studs and nuts on both sides just to be safe.









$360 later and one long sad weekend I had new studs, lug nuts, rotors, brake pads, and an alignment.




Truck runs great now so I thought I would share for your guy's enjoyment. I got super lucky all that was ruined was my truck and my self esteem. Always double check your work and stay safe out there guys!

 

Today I installed some new bump stops and a diff drop kit. I originally bought the diff drop to fix a vibration before my tire fell off, but after it fell off I realized the vibration was my wheel falling off. Since I had it I figured id install it any way. I didn't loose any ground clearance but I am not sure if I fixed my CV angle. I'll let you guys decide for your selves:

Before drop and bump stops:


After dtop and bump stops:

 

Dang man. Glad to hear you're okay and that you got it all fixed up in the end.

 

I'm more grateful the tire didn't hit someone on a motorcycle or something when it flew across the freeway haha.

 

oh crap! that doesn't look good, i have to read all about what happened

i have original suspension still and TW keeps warning me my whole wheel is gonna fall off when i am going highway speed like almost 90mph

.. hit some real nasty holes and bumps in the Colorado mountains this week, almost lost control twice coming back down at only 60ish in the back end around a curve

 

I can guarantee it wasn't especially fun haha. I think so long as you replace all your ball joints and check your wheel bearings then you should be good to go. This was totally my mistake and I definitely paid for it...

 

I though I'd do a write up on the DIY roof top tent I'm working on. I have been wanting a RTT for a while but I can't justify the $2k+ price tag for a piece of wood and a tent, so I decided to make my own.

I started doing some research on DIY RTT's and didn't really find anything. I found this one which is literally a Coleman tent on a piece of plywood, and this one, which is almost exactly what I am looking for but their isn't much info on his build. So with no guide to follow I just decided to jump right in and learn as I go. With budget of $200 I set out.

So far I have collected and used these parts:

• 3/4" 4'x8' plywood - Free, had in garage
  
• 4x1/2" metal conduit pipes - $12
• ARB RTT Hinge Set - $15
  
• 3' x 1/8" x 1.5" steel plate - $9
  
• 50' cord from REI for hammocks - $10
  
• Small aluminum spacers - $10
  
• Coleman cabin tent - $40
  
• ARB RTT ladder - Free, thanks Marco!
• Marine Varnish - $20, will probably need more

Total for me so far is $116, a fraction of the cost of a pre-made one.

The hinges so far were the hardest to find. No one seemed to sell just the hinge. I found a few places that sell replacement ones but they were pretty expensive. I only found one option that was within the price range I wanted to pay. This one by ARB on 4wheel parts. It was only $15 shipped but the description was vague and it didn't have any images on the website. I purchased it figuring I could return it if it wasn't what I was looking for. Well, turns out they were perfect! Granted I had to wait 3 weeks for them to show up, but I think it was totally worth it. They are beefy and came with all the hardware required, even the black plastic pole holders!



After I found the hinges the rest seemed pretty straight forward. I cut a piece of 3/4" plywood in half, bent some 1/2" conduit for the tent frame, purchased some hardware, and began assembly. Here is what I have so far (sorry for the night images).

The hinges are slightly adjustable so getting the wood lined up is super easy.


When the tent unfolds the string holds the frame up. I started with parachord but learned it stretches after a failed test. After some research, and consulting my dad, I learned of a special rope mainly used these days for backpack hammocking. It's no bigger then parachord and it doesnt stretch! I got 50' from REI and it is amazing! I used the aluminum spacers in the conduit to ensure it didn't cut the string. The string also serves as a safety to hold up the wood, ensuring I wont fall to my death.


Once I had the frame done I did a test fit on the truck.

Folded it is a little taller then I wanted, but that's due to the height of the hinge. When I have bedding in it it will probably need to be this size anyway. Measures 9.5"




Unfolded you can see the string holds it up nicely (notice no ladder for support). I wouldn't trust only the string to hold me, but it's enough if the ladder were to break to make sure I don't fall. It also makes the frame super sturdy.




So now on the the bedding/tent.

I purchased a Coleman Cabin tent like this because it is the same shape as my RTT. Found it "new" on OfferUp for $40.


The tent is huge but my grandma is an expert sewer and is going to help me cut it up and resize it for my needs.

I also went to purchase an ARB RTT ladder I found on OfferUp. Usually a replacement ladder is around $200 and I was getting it for $40. When I showed up the guy liked me and gave it to me for free!






So what's next?

I need to buy/fab ladder mounts. I found this ladder bracket set from Tepui which I am probably going to buy, but maybe I can figure out something cheaper before I make the purchase.

I need to finish sewing the tent itself. My grandma is helping [read: doing it] so I'm not sure how long it will take, but I know it will be a good job.

I need to take the frame apart and waterproof the wood with marine varnish.

Most importantly, I need a way to mount it to my truck. I'm putting it on the roof because I usually haul dirt bikes when I camp. Otherwise I would make a bed mount. Any ideas for roof mounting would be greatly appreciated. Right now I'm working with the parts on 80/20 to see what I can make, but extruded aluminum is pretty pricey.

I'm hoping to have this tent finished before March 13th so I can test out during Spring Break.

 

I started to waterproof the wood and find parts for the roof mount.

I'm using Varathane Ultimate Oil Based Spar Polyurethane. I've had pretty good luck with this stuff before. My only complaint is the price, $25/qt, yikes.






I'm going to do 2 coats top and bottom on both sheets of plywood, maybe 3 if I have enough polyurethane. Should seal it up pretty good. I'm thinking of getting some sort of rubber stripping to go around the wood, but I haven't decided if the tent will wrap around it instead.


As for the roof mount, I've been browsing 80/20's site and think I have a plan, or 2.

Plan 1:
Buy a few feet of this aluminum:


And a bunch of these:


and do something like this on the roof with the bolts going through the tent into the aluminum extrude pieces:


Then I would tighten the nuts inside the tent to secure it to the truck.

These are just thoughts and are subject to change. I want it to be cheap and low profile and this way would be both. Plus i could use the rails for mounting a rack when the tent isn't in use. My only concern is how I would mount the rails to the truck itself. I don't mind putting holes in the truck so long as they are waterproofed. I'm not sure how I would fit a bolt though the aluminum either. I was hoping to find rail like that one but with pre drilled holes for mounting. Unfortunately they don't seem to sell that.

 

you should see the price per qt of what i am using to recoat my trucks frame with something more durable for its climate

$45 per qt!

 

Ah I figured out what I am really looking for, Anchor Track! It goes in trailers or truck beds usually to hold down motorcycles.
Something like this would probably work perfect and look nice!!
https://www.etrailer.com/Tie-Down-Anchors/Tow-Rax/TWSP6DTAB.html

Maybe I can figure out something with that!

 

Woah, what're you using? Something to stop salt I assume?

 

Eastwood heavy duty extreme chassis primer and then a possible topcoat when the weather here warms up! (its currently 7 F out here in middle USA)
3x chip and chemical resistant
i have only been able to get a section sorta almost done on the driver side
could not finish the passenger side before it got too cold to paint properly
been running around all winter with a half naked frame and FF on bare steel

 

I can't even fathom those temperatures, let alone needing to protect from salt/snow haha. It's a nice 70 F here is southern california My only complaint is the people, so, many, people.

Hopefully you don't receive any permanent frame damage!