3rd gen - Fog lights anytime

Mini ON-ON DPDT rocker switch.



https://www.delcity.net/store/Non-I...JJkhqe-RtEHOWR6YVrDRxpVhkgXAIVxhoCmf4QAvD_BwE

 

What I mean is that everything you put goes right over my head. So I’ll never get this mod done because I don’t understand any of that.

 

There's a box next to the fuse/relay junction box, that is the Main Body ECU.

The Main Body ECU has one connector M6

On M6 you'll need to remove the Blue wire (Slot 26) that goes to the C11 at the steering stalk. (refer to https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/nitoris-oem-sr-foglight-mod.451495/ for details on the removal of the wire from the connector.)

You will be adding a new wire to this M6_26 position.
The other end of the new wire will get a female crimp terminal with an additional wire. This other wire will need a 090/2.3II female terminal to mate into a 3 slot connector where the diode will go.

On this connector where the diode mates, the center wire needs one female 090/2.3II female terminal and on the other end a female 3M crimp terminal.

The remaining slot on this connector also gets the same feature.

The removed BLUE wire that goes to C11 then to the steering stalk is a tricky one. I suggest the following so you don't cut it. Slide a non-epoxy filled heat shrink over it. With an additional wire that has the insulation removed, wrap the terminal tight but carefully, it's tiny. then slide heat shrink and shrink it. On the other end of this added wire a female 3M terminal.

This is the part some will stop from doing this, the wire from the fog relay on connector 1F needs to be cut. (I haven't found the type of terminal that goes there, if I did, you could get a repair wire)

At this cut wire you'll need to add a female 3m terminal on both cut ends.

On all these 3M Female terminals you'll add a DPDT switch, can be mini and hidden. The purpose of this switch is for those that need to pass the yearly inspection. (Back to OEM function)

 

I have identified the terminal that is needed to assemble a substitute wire for the OEM one that needed to be removed and wrapped n shrink...

TE part# 1827855-2 for a 20 awg wire.



Still haven't identified the terminal that goes to 1F_27, so I can't search for a replacement.

 

I found a much easier way.



Even made a little box for it for when I tuck it under the dash. Lights won't be here till Friday though ill finished wiring and installing then.

 

You kids are CRAZY!

 

It's not simpler...I've read it and it has it's own thread buddy.
And by the way, lookout for heat/melt...

 

@caribe makaira first of all, this is awesome and thank you so much for all of the illustrations. I see that I can make my M6_26 repair wire whatever length I choose as well as the wire wrapped extension of C11_9. So it appears that the cut on the 1F_27 wire is the only thing limiting my options for the location of the switch. I assume the wire is going directly to the engine bay relay box through the firewall. Where along the line did you cut it? I assume it was closer to the 1F_27 connection point to put the DPDT switch and 3-slot diode connector in a more accessible location. Am I correct in thinking that?



I understand the switch and the wiring but don't quite understand diodes or what they are needed for. I see that you mentioned that the fog "ON" indicator is retained. Does that mean that if the high beams are on and I turn on the fog switch on the stalk that both indicators will illuminate on the dash? Same question for a scenario where the headlights are completely off and the fog light switch is on. Will the fog light indicator light be illuminated on the dash?



Lastly, does the diode prevent the fogs from staying on if the switch is left on (i.e. Auto OFF)? Or do I need to make sure the switch is off when I leave the truck to prevent battery drain? It makes sense that I would have to turn the fogs off or it wouldn't be an anytime fog mod but wasn't clear on that. I apologize for all of the questions, but I think I understand what you're throwing down but sometimes that gets me in trouble.

 

Yes

 

Yes

Yes

No

You'll need to make sure the stalk fog select is OFF, not the added switch.

If you feel that was easy enough, then your next phase would be to cut the wire to the Fog relay pin 85, which shares the fused power with pin 30, and tap an IGN fused source to replace the cut wire feed. This way the relay turns OFF after engine OFF...

 

The diodes prevent current from feeding into each circuit. Allowing flow only in one direction. Like a check valve, even-thought the DPST switch duplicates this feature but there is a need to share the Main Body ECU fog ground feature...(Dash Indication for Fogs ON)

 

You're reading my mind. I can't be trusted to turn anything off. Can you shed some light on the pin locations on the relay under the hood? Your diagram has them labeled 1,2,3 and 5. How do they correspond to the relay pins 30,85,86 and 87? I've seen several illustrations. I'm assuming:

3=30
5=87
1=85
2=86 going to 1F_27

 

To access the lower relay tray, the whole fuse box needs to be released (2 nuts, a bolt and the harness tie downs and the top connectors) and the bottom cover removed.

 

Cavemen need pictures. Thanks!

 

Haven't ever cracked open the underside of the relay box. What gauge wire do I need?

 

For the relay tap to pin 1?...18 awg max, it's a "control" wire.

 

When you cut the shared fused power wire, crimp one of these:

or a larger one...


Then wedge it (from below) next to the fused IGN location of the IG2 Main Relay, tape in place. The connector is a 2.8mm male. Old speakers use to require them the female side type that is.