3rd gen tacoma anytime fog mod!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Wait you can change the setting lol I didn’t even know that

 

Yeah, you add a 3-way switch to the yellow wire. Hi, Med, Low. Then right when you start the truck you have 10 sec to hit you high-beams twice this puts it in programming mode. Choose what level you want to program using the switch setting than using the high beams you adjust it.

 

Learn something never everyday! Cool.

 

Me too all the time I learned all that from this thread.

 

Yeah I am excited to get it all installed and to be able to see now.. I dont know how many time a heard of dear and antelope scare the crud outta me cause i didnt see them up ahead..

 

After starting to build all this I forgot to ask what size of fuse did you use in the add a fuse and what circuit did you tap into?

 

I used only a two way toggle switch also, didn't think a three way would be needed, don't miss it. 12V and GND for the two brightness settings (programmable and 100%), and then of course the regular switch to turn them on and off.

I know I used a 5A fuse, I don't remember which spot I plugged into. I used a fuse tap and just picked something that was ignition on hot. I can look later if you need me to.

 

How do places where it is illegal to drive with your fogs on deal with vehicles that use the fogs for DRL?

Like for example, I’m driving my unmodified 1992 Toyota Supra that uses the fogs for DRL in a state that it’s illegal, they’re going to give me a ticket? Seems odd.

That said, I don’t know the laws for everywhere specifically in those places, so they are probably more specific. (No fogs with headlights when there is no fog; no running only fogs at night; etc.) It would be a tough ticket to give for someone with only their fogs on during the day.

The Supra previously mentioned uses the fogs for DRL then they turn off with the headlights and can be reactivated only with low beams.

Jeff

 

Ok thanks man I looked at the amps and it draws 3 amps per light max so wondering if I need bigger or just stick with a 5?

 

If you have out of state tags on your vehicle, you should be good to go - no citation.

 

Use a 6A

 

That would work for me, since I’m out of state, sure.

But let’s say I live in that state and have the unmodified vehicle registered in that state?

Jeff

 

Each state has their own rules but the law, generally, says that as long as the lights are unmodified OEM lights, they can be used anytime in the manner they were designed to. I pretty sure a US vehicle manufacturer is not going to make an option that isn't 50-state legal. Once you start adding aftermarket lights or modifying the OEM lights, that's when you start having issues with the law. Also usually why you see aftermarket lights for sale with an "*" that says "off-road use only".

 

It used to be the fogs / driving lights had a code stamped on them that defined the difference. If they were fogs, you could not use them and they typically worked better in fog. That info is over 10yrs old for me, so laws could have changed as well as the designs.

Of course, enforcement there is tricky and peeps seem to think they look cool even though the actual owner never actually sees them. WTF, there?

Most times, OE fogs / driving lights are not a problem, but for at least half of the jokers running around here with them on 24/7, they are misaligned and one is usually pointed toward my head.

 

Sorry to bother you one last time I promise. Do you think 7.5 amp will work I have lots of them? If that is too high I will go and buy a 6 amp.

 

You should ask Cali Raised what size they recommend.. The controller can handle 144W per channel so no current limiting there and it would be tough to burn that out. The BD lights I have are 26W each so, (standby for math) 52W/11.5V(minimum voltage I would hope to ever have with truck off) = ~4.5A... this would be my worst case scenario I think. If anything crazy happened I would think that a 5A fuse would blow just fine before any serious damage happened to my lights or wires melted (the wire itself can likely handle at least 10A for a short period before it melts/burns).

Also, the 5A is 20% higher than the rated 2A/light (4A total) of my circuit (excluding the controller). I don't know your wattage but a 7.5A fuse would be 100%-((6A*100)/7.5A = 20% higher than the rated 3A/light (6A total) of yours, so that should be sort of comforting if you decide to just go with the 7.5A.... If any of that makes any sense haha.

Again, you should prob ask Cali Raised, you don't have to worry about the controller, it seems robust enough to handle whatever you throw at it. 144W/12A per channel.

 

Thank you for your time.

 

Sorry to bother you again lol. I think I have my MOSFETs wired backward and here is why. The fog lights don't come on at all and the light on the switch does not either but when I turn the fog switch and or the high beams on the light on the switch turns on and not the fogs. I have double and triple checked all the wiring and it is all correct. I did a lot of research on the MOSFET and the supply gate and dump all shown to be different than your diagram but with being said it worked for you. the only other thing I can think of is the power in and the wire for the high beam to the switch on the column are backward and its lighting up my switch instead of the fogs. does that sound possible to you as well?

 

HMM i just tried it with the truck running and the button does not light up at all with fog switch on or high beams on. when i shut the truck off and turn fogs on or high beams on it lights up the button. I have the power tapped into power outlet 1 which only turns on when truck is running and i have the power for the MOSFETs all t tapped into that one ad a fuse I assumed it would be fine if they all drew their source from the same place or am i wrong I looked into the MOSFET thing the G, D, S are correct as you pictued so now I am confused it has to be the 12v sources or the switch.

 

OK here is where I am at. I took out the tester and I have power on the supply side of both MOSFETs and power also the drain side of both MOSFETs. I don't have power on the bridge side of either MOSFET with the fogs or the High beams on for their respective MOSFET. When I touch the bride side of the MOSFET for the high beams it turns on the high beams without hitting the switch. When i touch the bridge side of the fog MOSFET it turns on the light on the dash but it does not turn on the fog lights. I tested the violet/white, orange/white and I have no power with any possible combinations I switch the switches on the steering column. It's like the IQ-275 is not sending power down those outputs. I don't know if that is because of the bridge side of the MOSFETs or if that means that the controller is bad what do you think? I'm sorry I am a pain just trying to get this figured out I go back to work tomorrow for a month.