TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Yeah it's not.

The removal and reinstallation process of that thing is a solid "fuck that" in my book.

 

Who is running a higher pressure radiator cap? And can anyone give a breakdown of trade offs and how they pertain to lower temp thermostats? I get the basics of things but would like to understand their relationships as it pertains to the 4.0 with S/C.

Lower temp T-stat will open sooner, allowing for the coolant to circulate through radiator, thus keeping engine temps down. This needs to be corrected in the ECU. I am running the 170 with UCON. I assume it takes that into consideration and adjust timing and fuel. At some point the benefits will become a hindrance to the cab heaters ability to create acceptable heat.

High pressure radiator cap will allow for higher coolant temp before boiling... and then pushing coolant to the overflow tank. But could this cover up any issues within the coolant system? Or would it present them sooner?
Am I close?

 

From what I understand you guys have an aluminum radiator upgrade.

I’d say run the higher pressure cap only when you upgrade radiators (if there’s any benefit). I ran a higher pressure TRD cap on my stock radiator and the additional pressure made my radiator spring a leak on a drive home. Radiator lasted maybe 2000 miles.

 

a higher pressure cap will just let the coolant heat up more before being pushed into the overflow. on a vehicle with a overflow bottle there isnt much point imo since all youre doing is retaining more heat/you have a problem if your pushing coolant out the overflow bottle. we do it on dirtbikes to help prevent coolant being lost to the ground.

 

From a performance standpoint I never saw a point in installing a higher pressure radiator cap myself. From an off-road Motorsports standpoint like dirtbikes and quads I could definitely see the benefit in doing such a "mod."

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=pre...ft:en-US:IE-Address&ie=&oe=#spf=1580850165815

 

You and your facts.... ;-)

 

The “TRD” cap is 1.3, I believe and the cap that comes on the nice aluminum radiator we all have is 1.4

 

So I have found out that if I can keep my foot out of the throttle and only drive 65mph, I can get 15mpg! Had to got to SLC monday during a snow storm so we took the truck to be protected from other drivers. Yep 15mpg. If I would have ran the tank to the E I could have gotten 240 miles on a tank. LOL And I made a crude cardboard cover for my large trans cooler and the trans got up to a whopping 122 degrees! 15 higher than without the cover. But I really just need to install the CSF and the trans thermostat so it can actually warm up. I have read that not letting a trans warm up can be as bad as getting too hot. Anyone know anything about trans temps and if it is bad to run them that cold? The thermostat is set to allow flow to the cooler at 180. Which indicates to me you want at least 180?

 

im under the impression that175* is good. id be a little concerened at 120ish.

 

Draft a big rig to really see what you can get

 

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single core OEM radiator still?

 

Sounds like a blown HG. Time for a cylinder leakage test.

 

oem
original

 

the leak down will give you a good idea on rings, valve seats, seals and head gasket if nothing else.

how long has it presented itself?
Have you checked it on an open system, without any t-stat?

 

Spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, belts. (IF the engine is not done)

 

Are you sure you are full on coolant? Fresh coolant? Radiator pressure test to check it as well.

 

sorry to hear that, just let us know what you know when you know and we can try to help.

 

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