Ontario BS Thread

I know a guy

 

I removed mine after a year as shifting into reverse was getting WAY MORE DIFFICULT, and the reverse camera wasn’t turning on. Reason: the Normally open momentary reverse switch that fastens into the trans had failed OPEN. Even when I removed it, I couldn’t operate the switch, seized solid. I removed the URD SS as I thought it was the culprit, but a new switch instantly fixed everything. I have new alignment dowels so I’m ready to install, prolly only add 15 mins to a trans fluid swap job (if you fill from the shifter opening).

Since the URD SS does not replace/exchange any OEM parts, but merely adds onto them, I would not expect anything to “loosen up” after time. The kit Adds a 1” spacer plate, and 1” shifter ball extension. Even your shifter ball bushing is re-used, assuming you can get it off in one piece.

For roughly $100, I love mine, and did not feel it necessary to further upgrade with another brand.

I suggest buying two additional shifter alignment bushings (90253-11021) to keep everything square. OEM shifter uses two dowels, but when you put the spacer plate in, you need two more dowels. Previously I used 1 dowel on either side of the plate, but for $5 the install is made more legitimate.

In the photo, notice two corners have slightly larger ID to accept the dowel and locate on the trans. Both sides of the plates are drilled for bushings making 4 total, but OEM only uses 2.

 

Dowels. P/N 90253-11021. About 10mm diameter, can’t recall cost exactly, But cheap enough.

 

you may not expect it to, but it loosens up over time. a lot.

 

Said loosening is prolly a combination of factors of the ball end extension getting play in it as the set screw beds in, and the psychological factor as one gets used to (or stronger) from the increased shifting effort.
In roughly 20,000km I did not notice any loosening. Just the unrelated reverse issue.

 

Depends on how the motor is set up. When drives are used the can be the case but for a basic series motor or shunt motor it depends. You can control it by limiting current etc but if you have a reduced voltage the current will just spike if it will continue to pull at the same torque.

I believe winches are usually a series motor.
It really depends on motor spec etc.
Besides tried running a winch with limited load on it off 2awg and that shit got hot

 

Just consider a 2awg wire is really only good to hold about 120amp.

And in the maybe 8ft long jumper cables we used they were really hot.

And DC heats up way faster than AC.
I know when we do ups battery bank commissioning we have to run thermal cameras all over the batteries. If you get a hot spot it only take maybe 20 seconds before it goes and damages a shit load.


But if you want to risk burning your truck over $400, by all means.

 

I have a FLIR camera in my pocket, and I dont think the wires will burst in to flames in 20 seconds.

I can monitor the situation, and upgrade if necessary.

The reason I am going to start with 2 gauge, is because all the kits that I found for running a winch on a trailer, via your truck battery are 2 gauge.

This kit has a 22 foot run of 2 gauge.

$113 2 Gauge 32 ft. Hi-Amp Universal Quick-Connect Wiring Kit for Trailer Mounted Winch

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0...9b1-a65b129fdd73&pf_rd_r=HMNAY5CDH010ZB1DKS5H

 

Just remember, we like to see carnage....

 

I have the exact equipment @Joe23 said I need to monitor it, a thermal camera.

No carnage in my future

 

It just makes very little sense to me that they sell winch wiring kits, over 20 ft in 2 gauge that will burn you truck down?

What sense does that make?

 

It's much lower current compared to a 5000amp battery bank but the idea is the same. Doesn't take long to go.

And you'll need to watch every part of your run for hot spots but hey your truck let it burn if you want.

I'm guessing those are meant for running a smaller atv type winch for pulling stuff into the trailer etc which would have much lower current draws which would be fine for that.

But a 9000lbs+ winch.

But hey your truck. Don't get why you ask for advice if you're not going to listen.

Oh just an FYI insulation also deteriorates a lot faster when you thermo cycle it like you'll be doing.
Ask me how many motors I've taken apart at work to have the wires insulation fall off from heat damage.

Just please don't cheap out and not fuse it as well. Since you know a lot of winch company's provide cables to go right to the battery.
No fuse is a good way to start a fire.

Don't get why you're willing to cheap out on roughly $120 vs buying the proper stuff.
Peter already said he can get 50ft for around $200 which will be more than enough for you.


Just take a picture if it goes up love to see truck fires

 

Because that's for a trailer winch which is just used for loading them which are maybe 3000lb winches.

 

So you're going to crawl under the truck and watch the cable while winching to make sure it's not over heating and probably get a bunch of interference from other shit like the exhaust?


This is reminding me of someone else who loves to ask for input from those that know a bit more about it then brush off their advice because it's not what they want to hear.

But I mean hey not like your truck is worth $25k + and you're cheaping out on a few $100



















..... Oh wait it likely is

 

I am really struggling with this, I am listening. But its hard to understand.





^ me

 

Do your research and go for it. At the end of the day it’s your money.

 

You're cheaping out on wire to save maybe $200-$300 risking an electrical fire on your 30k truck.

Makes perfect sense.
Why ask how to properly wire it if you don't care to listen to save $200.

Fuck even Eugene uses the right size wire and he's a retarded slav red neck garage


Take your time and save a little more if that $200 breaks the bank

 

OK

I dont need to understand, I just need to shut up and listen.

2/0 for the rear run.

Gotcha

Doing it.

 

Common don’t bring @Norilsk into this. That’s too low of a blow