Turbo BS Thread

I have heard whispers of a 2tr running over 800 out of Florida. Its hush because they are drag racers and dont like talking about Underhood stuffs.

I have seen many a 400hp build out of thailand where these motors are in almost everything. Their engine management and access to quality US parts and tooling is what holds them back.

 

...And here I am, just tryna figure out why every time it rains hard, I get a cyl 1 misfire, even after changing the coil and connector

 

Just search 2TR on LCE's website, and it will pull up everything they carry.

 

thats a weird symptom lol any exposed wiring not waterproofed? Maf sensor somewhere it can get wet?

 

Gotta check out the harness tomorrow now that I finally have a day to work from home. Way back, I had an issue with it coming close to the downpipe which sizzled the outer loom a little bit- but it never gave me an issue.

The MAF is just before the throttle body, and right after the BOV. Shouldn't be any moisture getting in, especially since I never see any signs of water drops on the IC piping near it.
I'm hoping I expose the harness in the sizzled area a little more and see a bare wire tomorrow. Otherwise, I'm going to drive myself nuts lol.

 

The only other thing is that it ALWAYS throws the same cylinder misfire code, always being cylinder 1. So When I check the harness, I figured I'd trace all the wires from coil #1 to narrow it down. Process of elimination.

 

Ohm test it and if you more then 5 ohms in the wire more then likely resistance is present. Check your grounds as well. I would hook in and do a continuity test and then shake the harness to see if you missed a frayed wire or a grounded out wire. We had this happen on some case tractors with the cam sensor. They wouldnt start found out the wiring harness from the factory was too short and they pulled it too tight to make it work. Vibration from the motor made it fray and ground out.

 

So I'm coming up with needing to ohm out between the black/white wire and black/red wire?

 

I would check for power first from b+. Verify you have battery voltage from the battery and reference it to the value from b+. Always reference from battery voltage. You should have minimum voltage drop if any. If you dont have battery voltage are a major drop it means it somewhere up the stream aka corroded wire, bad connector or bad connection. This is where you start checking ohms from where the wire starts to the coil. Make sure your ground lead is on the battery. From there verify your ground with the b+ and ground wire. Verify you have battery voltage. I cant pull up the resistance values on my software for the ohms, it wont work with android.

 

I wish i was there cause i can explain it a lot better in person.

 

Thanks for the feedback on LCE, and if they can do it in Asia, I can do it here

Apparently the search setting on their site works better than trying to navigate through their products list... Thanks for the tip

 

A few questions:
Should my ltft change this much (like a little, or a lot, different with each zone in the table basically)?
Any ideas why there is such a discrepancy between the banks still?
Also I had just cleared these codes thinking that might clear some of this up but if it helped it was barely noticeable (yes my fuel tank still has a small air leak somewhere so there's that)
Oh on a positive note I had been getting a pending code that bank 2 o2 sensor 1 was stuck rich and I seem to have pulled enough fuel to drive on it 60 miles without getting that.


Sorry for the shakes

https://youtu.be/3HpYEFwj22U

 

I kinda have a similar problem with my O2 sensor (narrow band though). Only happened after adding the turbo. Basically every time I start the truck its pretty lean for about a minute until the sensor heats up. I believe this is caused by all the extra length of exhaust piping and the 3" down pipe. The exhaust gas isn't as hot or moving at a high enough velocity compared to a stock exhaust right out of the head. I'm hoping Ceramic coating all the hot parts will keep more heat inside and remedy the issue. It's not a big deal, but kinda annoying. After truck warms up it's fine and works great.
In the short term, you could try heat wrapping the downpipe to see if that helps at all.

 

That may be what is causing the code but shouldnt be the main issue because I cleared the codes while the engine was hot and the vid is with codes cleared... I replaced that o2 sensor last year thinking it was bad and it undoubtedly was not... Or I bought a bad one

 

My issue is my maf sensor heat soaks when I shut the motor off. Cause the o2 sensor to peg out until it cools down.

 

Sorry I haven't been very active guys, the move and renovation, job taking me in/out of town every couple weeks and the newborn have me scratching for time. I have an oil leak at the turbo, poor fitting choice. I need to neck it down so I can tighten the fitting completely, looking at adding this guy:

$25 ICT Billet Straight -10AN Flare Male to 1/2" NPT Taper Pipe Turbo Drain Adapter Fitting Black Anodized Designed and Manufactured in the USA F10AN500NPXL

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07926GMN8
to my flange

$16 ICT Billet GT40-GT55 Billet Turbo Oil Return Drain Flange Garrett T4 1/2npt 551161

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015HOU45O

I didn't know because somehow it cleared the hot stuff and my bottom pan caught it all, found it on the recent oil change.

 

My intake temp is pretty normal though which I assume come to the torque app through the maf. I mean it may be 10-20 degrees above ambient for like 2 seconds when I first crank it if the engine was warm but as soon as it starts pulling air it drops back down

 

Oh, and now that I'm in cold winter weather it dies on first start in the morning. Second start sticks