Cranks but won't start, help?

He cannot replace the filter inside around the needle if it is plugged you will have to buy a new injector.

Granted I am not familiar with the internals of the Tacoma Specific Injectors. However most modern injectors have an internal filter around the needle and it cannot be removed as the injector is welded together after it is installed.

Just for a qualification. I work on automated assembly lines that assembles and tests gasoline fuel injectors (EV14).

Note: component # 6

 

This is an EV14 injector. The needle is inside the welded together injector. That black device on the needle is a filter separate from the inlet filter. If it is plugged you will need to buy a new injector.

I don't know if the Tacoma injectors have an internal filter. If it does, you cannot clean it or repair it.

If it only has an inlet filter it can be replaced, but there is a risk of contamination which could cause the injector to stick open or closed... It doesn't take much to cause a stuck injector, like a micron or two.

 

@Jimmyh its been a while to be sure but seem like I got back the injectors and some very small micro-filters that were on the inlet side. They were OEM Denso. I may have kept one and if so I shall dig it out and see as you have me curious.

 

I cleaned my tb. Didn't want to move the butterfly by hand, so I put some weight on the gas pedal and it opened. Not all the way, but it did open.

 

Mythbusters?



J/K that sucks...

 

While it may have a filter in the inlet ( most do ) if anything gets inside the injector you cannot remove the inner filter if it exists.

As I as trying to say earlier, while you can pull the inlet filter and replace it there is a huge chance of getting contamination inside the injector leading to a stuck needle.

 

I know, but all that does is allow more air into the intake.

On the old carburetor had an accelerator pump that would actually pump gasoline into the intake when the pedal was pressed. Pressing the pedal on a fuel injected engine does not do anything with respect to fuel delivery unless the engine is cranking / running.

 

I've gotten a few (2 cars) I had to work on neither owner knew the tank had been sugared, never saw the sugar get past an injector screen, in both cases the sugar collected at the injector screen, from what I've seen sugar does not dissolve in gas, and the sugar is not smaller than the inlet screen. I dropped tank dumped and got sugar out, blew out fuel lines, removed injectors washed out the sugar with brake clean, last one was a ford F150 that was about two years ago and still running, before that about 20 yrs ago ( 3.1 GM cavalier)

 

True dat. As, "fun" as it was; I am glad that I'm not messing with Holley carburetors anymore.
Summer jets... Winter jets... I'm getting to old to be dealing with that shit. I got better things to do now a days.

 

Better a Holley over a Quadrajet, they were a nightmare to rebuild.

 

The good old days. Lol

 

Unless I misread your posts but dropping, emptying the tank then thoroughly rinsing it and refilling with fresh fuel would be the first and most important thing I would do. On a side note, did you clean the MAF sensor in conjunction with the TB cleaning? I would recommend always do both.

 

I believe he has cleaned tank, replaced the pump, and cleaned TB.
Has not mentioned cleaning the MAF.
So far general consensus is Injectors are plugged.

Man, if feel bed for the guy.

 

If only he had a way to setup a table bench flow test and see how "well" one flows.

 

Update....I had said before that I had fuel to the fuel rail, I was wrong. I must've been seeing residual fuel in the rail when I first disconnected it because although I thought it was my injectors (new ones are on the way regardless), I start loosing fuel at the regulator. Solid fuel pressure all the way to reg, but nothing will go past it into the rail. I've got to think the obvious answer is the regulator, as it's mechanical not electrical. In fact there's nothing electrical and no sensors anywhere on the fuel system from the pump clear to the regulator, right?
Does anyone know how I could test the regulator? Should I be able to blow air throught it? Before I drop another hundo on a part I don't need

 

Yes sir, I did all of those things. And remember, we're talking about 3 months and probably 3000+ driving miles since the sugar incident

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1grfe-part-out-6spd-transfer-case.641081/#post-22646031

 

You disconnected the return line under the truck, and while idling, nothing was coming out?

Looked up the FPR on Rock Auto and was in disbelief of the cost.

 

Any updates, did you figure this out?