Eibach pro lift kit

Looks great! Are those 285’s? Any rubbing?

 

Considered buying this kit. How easy is it to adjust the lift height?

 

Just compress the spring and put the c-clip wherever you want, you can have a shop do it for you or if you have a spring compressor you can do it yourself. but you should leave it on the stock setting since the coil will do the lifting.

 

Thanks ! There 265/70/17s and no there's no really any rubbing that I notice, i did before on flat ground full lock in reverse but not anymore. Haven't heard it rub out in the trail. And it's been compressed enough to hear it I guess

 

Get it!

 

I sent you an email!

 

Nice man. What did you do for the rear? Stock UCA's?

 

If your setting these at the lowest setting with no added weight they are fine though right?

 

Thank you. I did a aal from wheelers single on the rear. I kept my oem control arms until I decide to move up once I need caster adjustments and all that. Didn't really wanna brake the bank just yet. Rides great imo . Definitely noticeable from the stock.

 

So you don't need to change the UCA's unless going up in tire size? I am running 265/75r16's too

 

Wouldn't say just because of tire size but Ive read anything above 2.75" lift like a 3 or above you might need control arms to be able to adjust caster properly. My alignment was perfect and haven't had any issues with this kit. Just cause installing it didn't require any additional upgrades. I have heard control arms help with bigger tires. Just haven't ran them yet to give any advice on them.

 

If I am understanding you correctly, that is right.
-SPRING RATE is the value that will determine how much or how little your front end's ride-height is effected by weight.
-Using a LONGER spring on a shock body built for a shorter one (14" spring Vs. 13" spring) will have the same effect as pre-loading the 13" spring up a few clips.
-thus, a 14" spring at clip level zero, is equivalent to the 13" spring being pre-loaded up however many clicks that would translate to on the given shock body.
-In either case, if the 14" spring OR the 13" spring have the SAME SPRING RATE, they will both "sag" & exhibit a lower ride-height as a result of any additional weight above and beyond the base-line of the application. (a winch bumper for example) The "sag" will be equal in either length, because the RATE determines this, not the spring length
-thus increasing the spring-rate of either the 14" OR 13" springs with NO added weight, will yield a higher ride-height value. The 14" spring will have less visible pre-load, because the length itself is doing it, rather than the clips on the 13". This comes at the cost of performance because...
-No matter how long or stiff you make the spring, you are still limited by the available travel of the shock shaft in the body/stroke.
-increasing BOTH pre-load AND spring-rate will have deleterious effects on the suspensions performance.

Imagine you have a 10ft long slinky and a 14" Blue King-coil spring. That slinky could be 100ft long for all it matters, but the RATE of its coil is such that it will be smashed flat by the suspension at any weight if you stuck it in your shock perch somehow. Even though its 10ft long, the only thing the slinky will do is "bind" and deform in the perch, it will fail completely at its job, because its not rated to support any weight. However the other 14" king-coil will hold, compressing only as much as it is designed to at its spring rate.

This is why springs dont cause or provide lift.
Increasing spring RATE stabilizes or 'holds' the ride-height you set when you pre-loaded your suspension. Pre-load was achieved through clip settings on the 13" spring or the increased length of the 14" spring itself.

 

you need UCA's ANYTIME you increase the ride height to the point you max out the articulation of the factory UCA's joint, which is typicallly at or above 2" of lift on the 3rd gen tacoma.
-Further, larger tires necessitate UCA's that can achieve higher CASTER values, because the larger tire takes up more space in the wheel well. -Increased caster is the main feature of aftermarket UCA's after increased articulation. 285's tpyically need +3 caster or more
-adjustable Caster allows forward and backward movement of the wheel in the well.
-this is ESSENTIAL to aligning your truck, as the factory alignment cams and UCA's max. settings are insufficient for +3 or above caster.
-this can prevent or reduce excessive chopping and cutting of the truck simply to fit giant tires.

Excessive lifting as well as 285 tires can individually necessitate UCA's.
Thus, any combination of more than 2" of lift AND 285 tires, will NEED UCA's or the truck will not align correctly. It is likely not possible to do both without UCA's.

 

Thank you for answering my questions! I'm thinking I'll do the eibach lift with Icon 1.5" aal, 1/4" spacer for taco lean, the aftermarket UCA's, and 265/75r16s

 

You'll be fine without UCA's on our first or second clip. Anything after that would absolutely need a UCA's.

 

In other news we've started development on tubular ball joint UCA's

 

Dropped my truck off at the shop to finally get the kit installed after having it sit in my garage since Black Friday. Going with JBA High Caster UCA’s and wheelers 3 leaf aal.

 

I know this is a pro kit thread but I need some help here. I was originally looking at the pro truck lift but later came across the
”EK16 - Toytec/Eibach 2″
looking at the description I can’t tell a difference. Can anyone chime in? Or am I blind?
TIA

 

It looks like Eibach is the manufacturer and Toytec got them to private label the same shock for them.