Ontario BS Thread

I simply don't believe you

 

Will you be wanting to turn these things on and off? Powered all the time ?

You'll need the oil/chemical resistance for the wire in the engine bay unless you sleeve them.

It may be easier to use the 4 gauge from the battery to the back of the inside cab fused at the battery + with an 80 Amp fuse,
4 gauge Automotive battery wire is easy to get and work with, you can rent / borrow a crimper to put the terminal ends on. (or talk nice to some electricians/linesmen or an Automotive shop)
1/2" Rubber Insulated Ring Clamps from Princess Auto wil be handy for securing the wire at different points so it does not flop around.

Then have a smaller fuseblock near the inverter and compressor and use the smaller wire fuses there.
That way you can add more stuff to it later on. CB's dashcams etc.
Most fuseblocks also have the - terminals on them too so it will save wire.
Running a #4 ground wire to the frame will realistically be fine.
Best practice is to near the battery but the chances of it causing a problem is similar to the chances of being hit by lightning.

15Amp fuse for the compressor and #14AWG wire. 14/2 SJOW/SOW as it's easy to get and it's already jacketed so will look neat.
or any 14Guage automotive wire from princess Auto will work too, just have to make the individual wires look neat with sticky-backs.

35 or 40 Amp fuse for the inverter and #10 AWG wire. You could get away with #12 but the difference in cost is not worth the heat on the wire.
And the inverter and compressor will be putting out lots of heat.
So consider heat from the compressor for Airflow and plastic stuff nearby....

 

Thank You for severely underping the circuit for me.

Permalinked.

 

ok so i've been beating my head against a wall with suspension again..
so 5100s are a base point i'm going with since everyone and their mother started there. If it's popular and relatively cheap, it must be pretty decent. Same logic i applied to the KO2s but now i know there is much more to be desired from them... every time it rains, it's a drifting exercise...

But right now i can't figure the springs/ coils out... Because that's an entire different beast and i can't wrap my head around it.
Differnt spring rates, preload of said springs, heavier spring but shorter are worse (?) than lighter springs that are longer, gotta mess around with alignments, gotta take the CV boots into consideration, Leveling blocks, 3 inch lift in the front 1 inch lift in the back, full lift kit, add a leaf packs, bump stops need to get adjusted


it doesn't end


i feel like i'm becoming @llamasmurf when he was trying to figure out the winch wiring...


Someone recommend me something because i'm loosing my mind, at least it'll be a starting point to build off of.


all I'm looking for is at most an inch or so lift as i'm not getting 35s right now @3JOH22A, i'll get 32s or something first until i find the need for it.
i know if i get the billy 5100s, i can go from 0-3 inches of lift or something so if i do decide to go 35s, i have something to work from.

Wheeling/ driving will be Ardbeg level of trails at most and then there is the trip to Tuk and then to Mexico...
hauling stuff, most likely will be half Sailboat fuel and half sand bags in the winter and a tool box year round

Price: whatever is reasonable, as in, if it's worth the few pennies more for much more gain - then i'll probably do it.

 

So I have my 5100's in the front set at the stock 0 setting, and use the springs to get the lift. This is IMO the correct way to do it.

Just need to figure out which springs match up to the weight you are carrying in the front. Armor or not comes into effect here.

I started with OME 2885's then upgraded to the 2886's for the weight of the ARB bumper.

 

Did we talk about how you're turning things off and on?



Lol the options for this part get fun... Switches, relays, bluetooth, Wifi... Options get crazy.

I did the buy once and cry once system and did this;


And adding a Blue Sea fuseblock for the constant power stuff.

A lot of the dash switches are only rated for 3 or 10 Amps, so relays will be involved for turning stuff on and off.

All easy once I explain myself properly.

 

+1

 

Thats what i've come to conclude, where i should let the spring do the lift. issue is atm, to get full articulation i need to figure out what spring and its length would need to be under preload and i got lost, scared, and confused at that point..


I have currently the SSO slimline bumper on, which is 75lbs on its own. I'll be bracing it with the c4 bumper reinforcement bars, say 10 lbs for it.
Will be adding the All Pro skid from @3JOH22A, say another 50lbs. Say add another 25lbs as a future buffer if i get the stage 2 wings for the bumper.

So say 150lbs additional weight at the front - most likely max.

 

I would say you want OME 2885's, that is going to be almost 2" of lift.

Please anyone else chime in if I am off in my elite noob calculations.

 

what about this? Medium gets you optimal performance at 300- 600lbs..
https://www.bilsteinlifts.com/shop/...t-kits/2-arb-ome-lift-kit-2016-toyota-tacoma/

 

so found and install guidefor that lift https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOW-FRDl5wg
and this was the end result.


GEEZUS that's tall...
but that video is extremely useful guide, toque specs and all are mentioned

the issue i have with 2 inch lifts, is that the CV boots might start wearing on themselves... i might be over thinking this and it probably doesn't make contact - but it's something in mind i'd like to avoid being damaged... checked the rest of the site and fouind the 5100s https://www.bilsteinlifts.com/shop/...ith-eibach-coils-for-2016-2019-toyota-tacoma/

but no idea about those springs. also, do a block lift or no?

 

If you only want an inch just run 5100’s with stock coils on the +1 setting untill you get a winch
Once you get the full weight on the truck id revisit after

at least thats what i did

ran 5100’s on the top notch for the full 3
Then when got the bumper on i put 885’s on back on the “0 lift” clip

you have the double cab so you’ll have a little more weight than me But its same results
*EDIT*

dont run the dif spacer it does nothing for our trucks but cause problems

as far as the cv boots go ive been running mine for 2 years with no problems

also you dont need coil compressors to install 5100’s yourself

 

Okay, plot twist, you don't need any lift to fit 35s, you just need to cut your fenders, but you still need to cut them even with 3" lift...
So might as well cut them now and make it less attractive for thief's to steal

read this, it's the most straightforward article about what you need, and skip 5100, they are like KO2s - utterly worthless
https://accutuneoffroad.com/articles/coilover-spring-rates-for-toyota-tacoma-4runner/

 

Oh you poor bastard.... LOL

I put my toe in this same hole and almost lost my mind....

Front and Rear weight and target height.
What are your expectations on road/off road, life expectancy
Budget.

Immasmurf had an excellent upgrade from stock for the fronts with the 5100's and OME springs...

Then you are looking at blocks or AAL for the rear or new springs so you can lift the rear... if you want to maintain the factory rake.

Cheapest budget; blocks
Lowest budget; 5100's and stock springs crank em up to get the height.
Lower budget; look at 5100's with OME springs if you are adding weight to the front.
Medium Budget; 6112's and 5160's and add the 650Lb springs to the 6112's and sumu springs or airbags at the back if you are carrying over 150 lbs in the back constantly. or Fox 2.0's or 2.5's OME leaf springs are an option for extra weight in the back too.
For High budget, 8112's 8110's ,Kings, Fox 3.0's, Elka's, front springs matched to weight, Icon Rxt or Deaver Expedition Pack based on rear weight. And Ride expectations.

 

oh i can still run the stock coils? i read somewhere it's not a good idea to do that as they're too short or so

i'll take your word over any random mention. but knowing this now, all i would need is to rent out a hand full of vice grips and zip ties to compress the spring.


So the 5100s on +1 setting on stock coils is an option for now, sweet!

 

Yeah you’ll be fine with that for now
As it sounds like you just want more of a level anyways so you domt have to worry about rear yet
And should still be fine with stock UCA’s

dont run blocks in front or rear

Aal is the best cheap way to go

then from there ome or whatever you want

doing the 5100’s in the truck is pretty easy.
Take off lower ball joint bolts pull cv out of hub. Mark ur cam tabs then loosen off the cams. Slightly compress shock by jacking up LCA. Remove top nut from strut and when you lower the jack it comes apart really nice. Then just pull bottom shock bolt out and it all falls apart nicely
reverse process to put it back together

Ive done this 3 times now no problems. Then just send it to the alignment shop next chance you get

 

i say 35s just to get you excited

I know the 5100s are the KO2 equivalent of the suspension world - and it's a formula that works well for the masses. But as i learned about the KO2s, SLIDE BABE SLIIIIDE ON ANY WET SURFACE.
So getting a second opinion is much appreciated.


i'll take a look into that link. i had been reading off of https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...2016-tacoma-presented-by-toytec-lifts.395798/ and i just got lost at some point. maybe for someone who knows their stuff it's a good read. but i'm as green as it gets when modifying vehicles...

the pain needs to start some where
Thank you for the list, that will help out.
on a side note; it's 150lbs ballpark of weight in the front (bumper, skids, future addition taken into consideration)

 

That accutune article is a good read, but their numbers don't work for the Bilistein systems. Springs and shocks have to be considered as a system.
But does explain why preload is not such a problem.

Isn't it fun to watch some go down this rabbit hole the first time.... Do you almost feel sorry for him as his head will probably have a few veins sticking out and he'll get that crazy eyed look the further and further he gets into this...

Poor Guy, it's painful but worth it...

 

Either level it or a small lift 1", 1-1/2", 2" at most all around as i'm considering the additional weight i had added to the front end, since adding the bumper, i feel the droop.

Blocks are a no-go for me anyway, i see them as a temporary means. Gonna do something, do it right the first time so to speak.

 

i mean i don't need to go Billysiten, it's just a name i'm more familiar with (also since the stock shocks are the 4600s on the TRD offroads)

Thank you caring, my sanity has already dissipated and i can see a white light at the end of the tunnel.