Ontario BS Thread

THEN WTF ARE YOU NOT ON 35s and 2.5" lift with Elkas and ICON RTX leafs in the rear ?!


save some money and get at least 6112s, 5100 are just bad and we won't take you on North Trip

 

I CAN'T AFFORD THE $5500 LIFT KIT.
AND WHY THE FRICK WOULD I DO THAT SINCE I'D RATHER GO STRAIGHT TO 40s, REPLACE THE REAR AXLE WITH A CHEVY 1 TONNE AND SUFFER TRYING TO MAKE A 90 DEGREE TURN.


ok, i'll look into the 6112s then. if the 5100s are sketchy for the North trip, i'll pass them aside then since the cost difference between the 2 can't be too much

 

Ah right I think i misread you whole Rant earlier

i ran mine on the top clip stock springs for a year on stock UCA’s for 285’s
Then switched to heavier coils once i got full front weight.

i would recommend uca’s for full height lift for ride quality and alignment purposes
Though im still on stock uca’s

 

Sounds more like russian propaganda

 

I trust you both on this matter (as well as everyone else in the BS group) but i am also building for the North trip and a trip to go through the USA to mexico to do some interior camping off some unpaved roads.

my stock 4600s (trd offroad stock) might be tired after another year of use, at taking them up to Tuk might be pushing it a bit since the last 1/4 of the road will be nothing but gravel.

so TLDR:

Constraints and considerations;

• Building for the Tuk trip + my Texas/Mexico trip.
• Got about 150 lbs of bumper, skids, and future stuff that i'm taking into consideration as my front end is dropping a little bit.
• Currently planning on getting 32s or 33s to replace my current 30.5s KO2s. I'll find something next year to replace them but taking it into consideration.
• Not looking for a massive lift; 1" to 1-1/2" i'd be most comfortable with, 2" is the absolute max as concerns over CVs and other parts.
• factory rake would be best as i still use the back end for holding stuff, level is also fine with me. No California leans

Current options are;

• Stock-o-taco
• 5100s on stock spring on setting +1 or +2 (Nori disapproves of the 5100s for the North trip)
• 5100s with 885s or some other heavier coil (Tgelata's build route)
• 6112s on a lower setting but idk if this fucks with anything.
• 6112's and 5160's. Add the 650Lb springs to the 6112's and sumu springs or airbags at the back. (Dak's recommendation)
  
• 2" ARB kit (NitroChargers 90021 with OME 2888 springs in the front, 60091 in the rear with OME leaf pack (snail's link, also i'm not married to just bilistien but i'd rather run with what's more common in the group)

the 5100s were a starting point since it's one that a lot of people start off with so wanted to play with the idea and know what my options were and what i can do with it.


so far @daks recommendation for the 6112 in the front and the 5160s in the rear, which sounds reasonable. but still would need a spring to put in place, unless the stock spring would work? will those OME 2885s work with the 6112 @llamasmurf?
(@Norilsk Are you ok with 5160s?

basically this; https://www.bilsteinlifts.com/shop/...1-rear-5160-lift-kit-2016-2017-toyota-tacoma/

just wanna know if everyone agrees that the 6112s and 5160s are a good combination for what i'd be using this for.

 

Your planning on some serious trips.
Make sure you take reliability into your equations when you decide.

You have a 2018 tacoma.

Don't change a thing.
Keep it as reliable as you can for the trips your planning.

When you get back your can change it.

 

Those all seem like good options
For your planned road trips go for whatever will give better ride quality.

Kings and LT

 

I know reliability is something that needs to be taken into consideration, so that's why i'm asking everyone.
I'm picking bilstein as it seems to be the most common/ most popular, but mostly because i don't know anything else out there other than FOX and KINGS.

The 5100s are a starting point, but i'd rather get the next thing up if it's within reason but i wont go and throw money at someone and get myself some super beefy 8112/ 8100 coil overs or what not that will be absolutely overkill for what i'm planning on doing.
my logic behind this is, in terms of computers; if i currently need 400w of power, i can get myself a 400w, 600w, 800w, or 1200w power supply to fill my needs.

the 400w supply can handle 400w, but that thing is going to be working at its max rating. which will reduce longevity.
the 600w supply can run the 400w with some breathing room, and can be efficient in running it.
the 800w supply will be working (i know it's not actually 50% on the efficiency curve) but in laymans term lets say it's working at 50% of its capacity, meaning the efficiency is much better than the 600w supply and so the reliability/ longevity will be greatly appreciated.
the 1200w supply, which can be considered overkill, will hardly need to work to supply the 400w and will last a rather long time.


i'm looking for something in the 600w to 800w range.

in the case of this, substitute the power supply with shocks;
400w= the bilstein 4600 that i currently have on. might be able to do the job, but it might suck.
600w = the 5100s
800w = the 6112s
1200w = 8112s

 

AND HOW, MAY I DARE ASK MY GOOD FRIEND, DO I DECIDE ON THIS?

i'd need to buy them all and test them to figure that out

 

Yes, and will handle better than stock. You'll notice the ride will seem a little firmer and less "wollowy" than the stock OR shocks. And less bouncy in the back when loaded.

Yes they are right in that the stock springs are not the best especially once you add weight. But will work.

Without reservoirs shocks can't handle repeated events as easy (wasboards) as the oil mixes with the nitrogen so will get "mushy"/fade.

So the start of Main Street coming from the highway will seem controlled but will get a little "bucky" after the first few seconds.

Non reservoir shocks also have to run at a higher pressure to do the same thing, higher pressure increases the rate of seal failure....
But a remote reservoir adds potential leak points.

Threaded height adjustment is better for "tweaking" in your heights.

I don't agree with the statement that 5100's are worthless, they are an upgrade from the stock OR suspension.... BUT

Once you realize how crappy the stock suspension is,
it's like crack,
you'll realize that if you spend $500 and it feels this good what happens when i spend $2000,
then as you get into it more $4000 is just buying the minimum you want.

If your budget is tight 5100's are a big improvement over stock.
BUT Norilsk is right that once you have a taste, chances are you will be upgrading.
The stock OR shocks are the equivalent of the 4600's btw.

Best advice for this area is;
Do your research, Plan Ahead,
Buy Once Cry Once.
Your only regret that you spent more than you want to is ,
you didn't spend more....

Suspension is compromises offset by cash infusions... Lol

You will get 10x the return in investment for $ spent,
$500 in shocks and the truck will feel like you spent $5000 more for it,
$5000 investment and you will feel that you spent $50,000 more for the truck.

For changing the spring you can use the zipties, ratchet straps, weight of the vehicle and a jack.....
or you can call around to the local suspension shops and pay them $30-60 to do it with their bench machine.
Takes minutes on a bench compressor.
Just remember the springs will have 600-700 pounds per inch travel of stored energy... take them seriously when they are compressed.

 

lol
I would assume the higher the number the better the quality
Though other things come into play. Like i know my current setup would ride nicer with UCA’s, ome leafs and nice rear shocks
I also built my truck knowing i would be redoing it all.
My truck rides nice compared to my old 3/4 ton Silverado
But probably rides like shit compared to a caddy.

 

Logic works with me.

 

Oh I'm such an asshole.....




Digressive,
Progressive,
Linear....

Mwahahahaha

Sounds like on road priority , Do you want to ride like a Cadillac or a Porsche?

You in the hole now!

 

Probably sounded sketchy the way i worded it but i found a video of it coming apart. 3:30 is the coil being removed
https://youtu.be/5E6u7dC7EHg

 

uuuuuuh

WRC!


Translation: firm is appreciated, i don't want my nose to continue sinking into the ground each time i slam the breaks
Never drove either vehicle in real life, but i drove the Porsche carrera 4S and had gone 280km/hr in VR!
That counts for something right?

 

In short - get whatever you can afford with your budget @Shveet and hit those mall curbs or park stones...

Gentlemen's above explained it pretty well. I didn't even think that hard when I picked mine... I got what gives me the most flex and let's me jump the buggy once in a while.

is Park Crawl a term yet?

 

That setup will give you better road handling (less nose dive and sway in the corners) , will not loose height over time vs the stock springs and you will "feel the road and small bumps more" But you will feel the small bumps more.

The option above it will give you more softer feel but dips, and sway in corners will be more pronounced. You will bottom out more. The shock will fade faster. But the 6112 will not fade for a lot longer time than what a 5100 will.

5100's and 6112's are Digressive Shocks. Firm To hard, You feel small stuff but float over big stuff, less nose dive stopping and sway in the corners.
Fox 2.0's and 2.5's and kings Are progressive (if memory serves) and will float over small stuff but you will feel the big ones. More nose dive and sway
(OR stock shocks are progressive btw,
too lightly sprung pr too loosely valved for the soft spring, so you see that Toyota added "dampeners" rubber covers on the top of the springs so they don't make noise when the coils slam against each other. )

Icon and ADS was linear (if memory serves) so same dampening throughout it's range.

Toytec also has some neat kits.

The Airbags or Sumo springs are for in case you rear starts to sag from weight on the stock springs, with your front lifted it will become readily apparent.
Unloaded they will increase stiffness on higher suspension events.
You may not need them right away. AAL is also an option.
Icon RXT, Deaver, Alcan rear leaf springs are better than OME

Bilstein does have a significant advantage in their springs though for the 6112/8112, they are cold formed. Don't settle and sag over time like hot-formed springs do.

Look into Elka also, while they may be new into the truck scene they have had a wonderful history with off-road vehicles.

The 6112's share the same spring as the 8112's.

Your right in that the best thing is to get some ass time in some different rigs to find out what makes your ass happy.

My truck would be a close analogy to what your would be like with 6112's as in similar weight (bumper, winch) and valving for minor and medium events, so most daily driving in Hamilton except for some of the major potholes and train track jumps, or drifting around bumpy corners. So we're gonna have to get you in it for the next meetup.

We need someone with Fox 2.5's or a TRD Pro so you will know what Progressive is like on a higher end shock.

We'll feed Norilsk lots of Vodka so we can try out his Elkas...

Falcon and Toytec have some good options too (I'm such an ass)

Fox and Bilstein are two safe bets, but you need to decide digressive or progressive. Porsche or Cadillac.

 

K Porsche it is, i.e.

Digressive is the direction you should be looking at then.
Bye Bye Fox, Not sure what the Nitrochargers are though.

 

Lol and here I thought you were some smart Russian that had done his engineering and picked out a coilover system which was overdesigned for it's price-point, and looks like it will last quite a while....

And it turns out;
It was just nothing more than a blind squirrel finding a nut?

 

I'd say if you're going to the back and likely adding other stuff I would bring one line back maybe 2awg to a fuse block and then take everything off there.

The inverter can do 10 gauge closer by but at that distance you'll have to up size to 8gauge
Compressor I'd do 12-10 gauge as well. For the distance probably 10. Closer by I'd do 12.
My compressor has a 10ft lead and it's 12awg

Princess auto puts a lot of this wire on sale often