New TRD PRO lift kit option?

That Revtek kit comes with an add a leaf, so it would be better than the block kit you originally posted.

 

They do actually, youre argument is very confusing. You can order whatever spring length you want. You can run dual rate springs. e.g The 14" travel Fox coilovers have an Eibach 14" spring upper and an Eibach 16" lower..

There are several people on this site running longer coils on their trucks.

 

They both have good and bad things.
Looks like this kit replaces the bottom spring perch and puts a small spacer on the top of the shock, then in the rear it uses blocks.
The revtek kit puts all the spacer in on the top of the spring but comes with add a leafs.

If I were to do it (and I might) I would get this kit and buy my own add a leaf for the rear.

So, the front would be the kit you posted, and the rear from the revtek (but not buy the revtek just for the add a leaf, just buy a leaf by its self)

 

I wasnt arguing for 14"-16", but merely stating that simply increasing the springs length does not give you the proportional amount of "lift".
-if your Truck is OEM 13" springs, simply swapping in 16" springs doesnt give you 3" of quote "lift".
-It applies 3" worth of pre-load on your existing suspension. All longer springs do is pre-load without needing snap-rings or clicks on the shock body
-a 13" spring pre-loaded 1 inch up the clip = a 14" at the bottom clip.
-increasing spring RATE (ft. lbs ) is the only way to prevent sag, or droop. however Spring rate greatly effects "feel" and function of the stroke.

Dual spring coil-overs are so vastly different from OEM its not worth even attempting to cover in a brief post.

I'm just trying to drive the point home extra super hard here, untill there is a GOOD sticky, how Suspensions actually work. And I have no doubt there are people on Tacomaworld™ with every wacky possible coil length imaginable. This place is a hive of misunderstanding, stubborness, and plain old denial of facts. The main take-away is: the only thing any additional Inch of coil a given spring has over the OEM measurement (or whatever the given shock-body was designed around) is only approaching BIND, which is the inevitable conclusion of increasing spring length where it was not designed to increase.

 

They are BOTH block-spacer kits and there is no conceivable reason to do this. "Lifting" is 100% optional, and saving money out of 2 extra paychecks will literally save you THOUSANDS$$$ in headaches in the future.

Pretty much ANY block-spacer lift, especially one with add-a-leafs, will be high enough to warrant Upper control arms.
1.-Your OEM alignment cams will be at or very near Maximum after even modest lifting.
2.-The alignment of your truck after lifting has MASSIVE implications on your CV's, axles, driveline, wheel-bearings and so on.
3.-Alignments cost money themself, and you might need more than 1 to get it right.
4.-Many "chain" alignment places do not do aftermarket alignments, or will only align to factory configurations, which you no longer are.
5.-Lifting your truck, then adding "offroad tires" (increase in rotating/unsprung weight is HUGE EFFECT) and offset wheels to clear body/control arms, will have a COMPOUNDING EFFECT on the above mentioned parts in point 2

So consider this:
A.-you cheaped out like a dirty-dog on your lift (~$500 instead of the ~$1100 a good coilover kit costs)(installation fee!or free if you do it your self)
B.-You had to have those 285 E-rated ko2's also those SCS wheels and dont forget the right lugs! and TPMS! ($800+$900+$60) ($200 for denso TPMS--free if you swap)
C.-mount and balance wheel/tire costs money too ($100 i dunno what this could cost you)
D.-you MUST get an alignment after you lift (min $75. maybe you need 2 trips to get it right $150)

A.LiftKit= $500+install (~$1K Done right)
B.Wheel/tire/TPMS= ~$1760+tpms
C.mount&balance= ~$100
D.Alignment=~$100

Your total Drive-away with an "I Cut-Corners" lift: $2460 (not including TPMS)
Total Drive away cost "done-right": $2900 (not including TPMS)

I just dont see how this is even a choice for you considering the REAL WORLD reality of what you are in-for lifting a ~$40k truck..

 

I know Jeff personally, great stand up dude, his kit is super popular in the Tundra crowd, he's been building Toyotas for a long time. Would not hesitate!

 

The exact kind of subjective "muh feelings" stuff that should never even be a factor in making objective, reality based purchases. Jeff could be mother Theresa, but the fact remains cutting corners on an optional lift will have consequences in the future. Especially when the lift itself is just a fraction of the overall drive-away cost of lifting a truck.

 

Friday.

That's not exactly how it works.

 

Oh please. Seriously? People here act like your truck will fall apart with a spacer lift. It is a perfectly fine option for plenty of people, so ya your "subjective muh feelings" about this kit are exactly that, your feelings. Not knowing anything about OPs needs or plans, type of driving, budget, goals, etc. this kit could be a just fine option for him. And yes I would buy something from Jeff hands down over revtek, whatever garbage, dude stands behind his builds and stuff. And that subjective "muh" about standing behind a product does matter when making "reality based purchases".

 

LOL, It will tho. All the anecdotal stuff about your friends jumping off bridges and being 'fine' is well and good, but it doesnt change the objective reality that block-spacer lifts are trash.

Lift kits are 100% optional. Being on a "Budget" for an optional modification is pants-on-head retarded. However, spending within reason is smart money.

It is utterly meaningless the type of driving or goals one has. There is a right way and a wrong way, and 100% of the time Block spacers are the wrong way. Its the one thing in modification that really is black&white. Im sure smoking is "just-fine" for most people, but we all know its bad for you, and is eventually going to have consequences. Those consequences vary from lung agitation to death. Huge scope. Shitty mods are indistinguishable from smoking as far as your truck is concerned. same scope though.
1.lift kit
2.wheels/tires/lugs/tpms
3.Upper control arms (possible)
4.installation/mount&balance
5.alignment
$2500 bare.absolute.minimum. To 'lift' a Tacoma in 2020.
And thats installing everything yourself and skipping UCA's which is not possible at 2"+ lifts unless you want your shit to never drive in a straight line again.

^Above are all non-negotiable aspects of this purchase-phase once you go down the "lifted-truck" rabbit hole.
How could saving a mere $400 out of a total ~$3k+ possibly make any sense what-so-ever, in something that is completely and totally optional? Doubly so if your truck is your daily, or only vehicle.

 

Why are wheels, tires, lugs and TPMS required for a lift? last time I checked I could still use the wheels, lugs, and TPMS that came with the truck... hell, I could even still use the tires if I wanted.

 

I was about to mention that along with some other things. But know its a pointless argument with some people on here. Not worth my time.

 

Its not exactly how what works?
1. You either scaled UP the size of your:
-shock body, shock shaft length, and up-scaled geometry changes (stroke, up&down travel, eylets, mount points etc..) (coilover kits)
or
2. You didnt, and youre doing it wrong by jamming parts into it that dont belong there. (block spacer&extended spring kits)

 

they arent, and you could certainly eliminate a huge fraction of the total cost by remaining on OEM wheels/tires/tpms.
-let me ask you, what portion of people who are lifting their truck do you think are doing that?
It doesnt make sense for logical discussion's sake to consider the ad nauseum possibilities out there, but rather, the most common. There are probably a dozen different permuations of cost you could get from those 5 points, but they all end up being somewhere near $2500 fully-set up and configured drive away cost at the absolute minimum.

You had to have known this.. or was it just obstinate questioning?

 

It was a question to a dumb response... I dont need wheels, lugs and TPMS. Your inflating things for some reason. I like my wheels, and the the sensors in them... and the lugs already work for them.

This whole thread is about suspension, he didnt ask about wheels, tires, sensors, or lug nuts... by the logic your using there we should also put skid plates, rock sliders, front and rear bumpers, recovery gear, a winch, and a roof tent in there. Since most people that lift will want to go off roading they will need that stuff anyways, so lets just roll it all in.

 

My opinion is that it’s a spacer lift but they’re advertising it as something else. A friend of mine called him out on Instagram about how it was being marketed. I think the guy changed the original wording because of it.

 

I'm aware of what the thread is about. Its a reasonable assumption that anyone discussing lift kit options is likely considering wheels and tires, or at least up-sized tires (285's) if not wheels.
I dont know if you are a victim of common-core™ education or what here, but armor and tents simply arent in the same wheel-house as a completed lift kit. You presented contextually irrellevant nonsense.

Further, these threads show up on searches interally and google, and members/lurkers all benefit by having useful talking points about the actual subject matter. Little bits of info in this thread or that thread are what make message boards such great resources.

 

Jesus, not everyone wants wheels, what part of that do you not understand? He has a pro already, so he already has pro wheels, many people like pro wheels. Your giving shit advice now, I dont give 2 shits about you talking about suspension, say what you want about how bad spacer lifts are. But going on and telling him he need things he most certainly does not need is you just being a dumb ass.

Get your shit together, if you want to talk about how bad the lift is, do that. Dont inject your bullshit about how he must get wheels and sensors too.

 

and from the look of it, they are thickened perches that likely act on pre-load levels. Not to mention the blocks it comes with. its not entirely clear from the pictures how all the pieces fit and where they go, and im sure this is by design.

Even worse, 2019+ TRD-PRO's are 2.5 front/rear Progressive, position-sensitive shocks that will be even MORE fucked by having the travel jacked with. The Shock was engineered to perform in a specific way at specific points in its travel, given the weight and position of the truck. They are equivalent to Level 4'ish aftermarket Fox kits and would retail for somewhere in the $3k's.

Its depressing to think there are people with mint TRD-PRO's willing to rape them with blocks for E-rated tires.

 

Exactly.