Trying to add a fox 2.5 lift on my 2019 Tacoma and need help

These are the things Im getting:
-Fox 2.5 ifp and 2.0 in the rear
-spc uca
-and 2 inch blocks.
Do I need anything else for the build?

 

You got extended U-bolts with that kit? Assuming you have all the tools required.

 

yeah i got the u bolts and I have all the tools. Do I need anything else? Installing 285/75/16

 

It sounds fine. Should do some more research on the tire size. Depending on wheel chosen and lift you may need a CMC to not rub. I did an Eibach pro lift and 1.5" AAL in the back and I'm waiting on my 285/70R17s to come in with a 8.5 in wheel 0 offset. I think I'm going to rub in some instances so I'm getting the CMC done proactively.

 

SPC adjustable UCA so you can get a Caster at or above 3. That way you dont have to do regrettable stuff like cutting and chopping your truck all to pieces. While youre at it, buy duplicate upper-control arm bolts, so you can just cut the OEM ones out saving a bunch of hassle and time. You need 2 and they are like $20 a piece. Also, you should consider new Alignment cams like these SPC's that have extra adjustment in them. Getting your truck correctly aligned after a lift is absolutely critical. Unless you want your shit to never drive in a straight line again...

- $40
-https://www.desertrat.com/i-23336167-spc-alignment-cams-front-lower-toyota-tacoma-2005-2017.html#!year%3D2017%7C%7Cmake%3DTOYOTA%7C%7Cmodel%3DTACOMA
$80

Cutting and chopping should be avoided like the plague, and is completely unnecessary. Lifting your truck is 100% optional. Take your time and do it right. I assure you, the problems from lifting a truck wrong are non-negotiable. You cant just handwave the problems away, or assume they wont happen to you. Beware of anecdotal nonsense that gets parrotted around here. Spending a little more now will save literal thousands in the future. That $100 additional up there is an investment in peace of mind, as well as a job-well-done.

 

Yeah, change the blocks for some AAL at a minimum. I'd personally suggest new leaf springs (I like my Dakars but there are several nice options).

 

Should I get 2 inch?

 

Even at 2" youre going to be at or very near the adjustment limits of your alignment cams and certainly your caster.

What are you exactly, precisely trying to do to the truck? like specifically what wheel, tire and suspension are you considering. This will all make a difference in the lift.

There is a LOT more to lifting than most people realize. Like a lot. Not only is there the mechanical component of choosing parts, but the reality of the human component: isntallation, set-up and alignment, are all money factors too.

 

Good information. I have been trying to decide which UCA to spend money on.

 

Trying to put nitro ridge grapplers 285/75/16 with fox 2.5 ifp coil overs and 2.0 on the rear with stock 16 inch wheels with 1.25 wheel spacers for now till I can afford the method wheels. But the stock wheels will do for now.

 

JBA's are also great:
https://jbaoffroad.com/jba-std-high...plus-4runner-03-plus-fj-cruisers-07-plus.html
They dont do the additional camber adjustment the SPC's do, but cost less.

If the alignment person knows what they are doing, having the high-caster UCA's alone should allow them to get good numbers from even factory lower cams, and the additional camber adjustment the SPC's do wouldnt be absolutely necessary unless you were doing some wacky, obscure lift to the max of every figure.

both SPC and JBA should reach high caster numbers (3 and above) that are necessary for 285s or crazy high lifts

 

Ive got 2.5s in the rear with a Dakar pack, but just put 2.5s in the front with Delta Joint UCAs this past week to finish up.

The only thing I didn't pay attention to (and I havent seen mentioned too often) is that you'll need to figure out is if you want to keep or ditch your sway bar. They sell a relocation kit if you want it, but the setup is exceptionally stiffer and there really isn't any dive with it from what I've seen so far.

 

Glad to have ran into you tonight.

 

I think the 1.25 spacers are equivalent to a +0 offset wheels or close to it. (maybe -10 offset?)
-So if/when you get aftermarket wheels, look for something with +0 offset to stay roughly within the same geometric changes you describe above.
-Factory TRD-OR wheels are +25mm offset. (Positive offset sucks the wheel into the well, negative pokes it out of the well)
-you will be increasing your "scrub radius" to roughly a positive 20, which will have an effect on handling, as well as an increase in wear and tear on the wheel bearings/cv/hub etc..
-this may or may not be perceptible to you depending on how you drive, what you are used to and how this all ends up coming together.
-it seems you will need UCA's to logically bring everything back into alignment.

Welcome to the world of "lifts". Its might make your head explode. Make conservative changes whenever possible, and try to group like changes together.
-Lifts and drastic changes in tire size require alignments.
-proper alignment needs proper hardware. (UCA's)
-all of these come together to correctly "lift" your truck, and mitigate as much of the impact these changes have as possible.

 

Thank you for all that information, that was very helpful!!

 

Getting the stock UCA bolt out was a breeze. Just bend the metal and then tap the bolt out the rest of the way.

 

For anyone reading:
1.25 inches = almost 32mm. This would be equivalent to -5 offset wheels. (close) because:
-OEM TRD-OR= +25mm offset
-OEM TRD-PRO= +12mm offset

negative offsett wheels move the outer edge of the wheel towards the outside the wheel well. (poke out)
-wheel spacers like spidertrax simulate negative offset.
-this simultaneously widens the track width
-negative offset increases 'scrub-radius' and 'bump-steer'
-this can make the truck wander, sensitive to bumps in the road or imperfections, and increase the turning radius.
-caster is essentially where your wheel moves forward or backward in the wheel well. positive caster moves the wheel forward in the well so bigger tires fit better.
-UCA's primary use for the average person is the high positive caster, where you can angle your wheel forward in the well to help clear 285's.

 

Offset is relative to width of wheel though. So not really a cut and dry relationship between spacers and wheel offset.

 

Some have better luck than others thats for sure. for a combined $30 bucks, it may be worth having them on-hand and considering just cutting the little bastards out were you to run into trouble

 

agree, I was assuming OP's statement of OEM wheel.