Brake controller

@RushT :-D

Yeah, and I also want my brand new TRD Sport to roll out the door for $14,500. I know it's not *likely* that what I'm looking for is out there, but if it is and I just can't find it 'cause I'm not using the right search terms, that's all I'm really asking. If no such monster exists, that's cool - I'll make do with what is available. There's something to be said for the old NASA style of mounting a baseball-bat toggle between two U-bolts.

I *love* the overhead panel idea - my inner 12-year old still wishes he was a pilot instead of a desk jockey - but even though it'd be just a couple thin wires, I don't think I want the hassle of fishing wires up and around, especially since there are curtain airbags in the A-pillar. I'd feel more comfortable keeping all my wires down behind those two bottom-left panels and just using a covered switch, even if it doesn't match the rest of the interior.

3rd question, which just hit me: For the brake controller - the Curt Spectrum - how much current does the controller main unit pull? Specifically, if it *is* okay to break the ground wire to toggle the unit on/off, can I run that straight through a switch, or should I install a relay?

 

I honestly don’t know what current they pull, but will say my Tekonsha wiring adapter came with substantial gauge wire (for switch wires that is). My redarc also had robust wires. Re: overhead... don’t let it spook you. The overhead panel literally just pulls right off. Some trim tools and you don’t have to remove the headliner as you can just tuck the wires between the windshield and liner. The A pillar cover comes off pretty easy too. I did all this to wire my dash cam and mounted it to the GoPro mount.

But don’t let that convince you to go where you’re uncomfortable. Yes, you do expose the airbag, but a battery disconnect puts another layer of safety on top of all the electronic nannies that monitor airbag readiness.

I would think there might be some high amperage switches out there because some run their lights that way rather than use relays.

I’ve found that in my mod pursuits, if I don’t do it the way I really wanted to at first, I end up redoing it or frowning/lamenting regularly.

I have one I’m redoing right now, moving my 2Lo mod switch to the overhead.

GLWS (Search).

 

Here’s another option... depending on how many blanks you have available. Can you have two switches in parallel? Have AOB, or CH4x4 laser etch two switches: stage 1, stage 2. Both have to be deactivated to kill power.

 

+1 on the Curt.....


sorry, couldn’t seem to turn the pic around.

 

I do like the size of the curt dial compared to my Redarc. Does it light up without a trailer?

 

Mine does briefly on start-up, and again briefly when brake pressure is applied. Of course it shows different displays when hooked to a trailer.

 

I haven’t paid attention to mine, but will look. It’s a bit out of my sight line.

 

I really like the Curt in dash install. I checked the Curt manufacturing website but they don’t have a wiring harness listed for a 2020 Taco. Does anyone have a recommendation?

 

You can get the takonsha one and wire it in. That’s what I did for my Redarc.

 

I did the Redarc. I did like the curt but there's want any room for it and I didn't want to loose the change slot.
I did use the curt wire harness and soldered it to the redarc.

Here is a video if anyone needs some tips
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cho7Ddde9B8&feature=youtu.be

 

I have a regular Tekonsha Brake Controller that I mounted under the aux switch panel. SInce its easy to unplug, I unplug it when I’m not towing.