2016 OVTune Tacoma 3.5L Manual Transmission / Engine ECU Reflash

I still don’t really like mine. Some days it’ll be super smooth, others every shift is jerky. 1-2 seems to only be decent if you rev to 4K then shift..

 

I think once mat gets his MT and experiences some of this stuff first hand, he’ll definitely be able to help it. Maybe not 100% but i think he can definitely make it better via tuning.

 

i just want rev hang gone. it seems to get worse and worse with cold weather. Just the other day i was going from 2nd to 3rd and had to wait forever for it to go from 2500 to 1800. it was doing it nearly every shift through traffic. makes it had to shift smooth when the RPMS arent where you expect them to be.

hell if it was just consistent it would help, but its completely random. I need to get a video of this. I just need to finish my 87 4runner so its road worthy. Bet your asses ill drive that thing over this any day.

 

When it’s cold I usually end up in 3rd gear and stay there

 

Give me an hour or two, let me see if I can decipher more of the code around the clutch.

Yes having a MT will be very helpful.
But please understand, half the problem is just like the AT guys, I get vastly different reports on how things act from truck to truck.

Which is why other than testing something to make sure it works, I'm ignoring anything about "shift at this rpm, or shift like this" and am just tuning it the best way the truck can from a TUNERS perspective.

 

okay, it's in here, so not too bad of a code routine.
Help me understand what it is that happens.

 

04B13, p5f
please let me know if this affects throttle.
It's based on gas pedal angle
Edit this might be neutral related

 

i was having trouble early with it before ADM, and i bought the stage 2 URD clutch. then i did the ADM and got my catless 93oct tube tune, and all was well with the stock clutch. i am 100% consistent on the clutch now after 60k miles. and I've got this URD now sitting on my garage floor and don't know what to do with it. the key is to spin up the motor and maintain a minimum rpm anytime you engage. don't use the clutch while idling unless you like it weak. keep the motor spinning at whatever rpm suits you, my minimum is maybe 1600-1700, and i always have power delivery when i let the clutch out. the weird, inconsistent, or mushy thing, however you'd describe it, would be worse on a higher end clutch unless you feed it power to work with. i mention this because that requires to different throttle control driving style to any truck you've ever driven. and it looks like you are expecting the motor to be a different motor. the power is right there for you to use. i don't like spinning it up like a small car either but I'm past it now and get all the performance all the time no complaints. same clutch as you. try it.

 

glad I’m not the only who considers trading this heaping pile of coronavirus diarrhea in for a high mileage ford probe on a semi regular basis.

 

Naw. I’ll just park it and drive my tundra.

 

would get about the same mpg

 

It sure does. It’s not that far off, especially when people lift and put on bigger tires, bumpers, RTTs and other garbage.

 

So much hate....

 

Maybe that’s part of it. Some weird DFCO / rev hang / other BS that happens with the transition from neutral to back in gear. Combined with the short engagement.

 

Even with my complaints, i hate it less than the automatic lol

 

So, I'm not seeing something specific to the clutch being in or out, at least not yet.

 

I thought you had found something from the dumps i did way back when? Or maybe I’m confused.

 

yes those dumps showed me all RAM addresses activated when clutch is pressed.
But i'm not seeing, yet, where a condition exists like "if clutch is pressed" do something to throttle

 

Ah gotcha