6” lift swap

I also have a RC lift with the spacers instead of the shocks/coils but it doesn't ride bad at all. Also have 33x12.5 tires. wheels have a -24 offset. It does wonder a bit on the road but nothing exaggerated. I was also thinking to lower it but was told it would be too much hassle, so i will be getting the proper shocks/coils.

 

What can y’all tell me about reducing or eliminating the steering wheel vibrating back and forth.

 

If I go this route, recommendations?

 

I’d go king or fox if I was in your spot.
You can call up down south motor sports and they’ll go over your setup and valve it correctly that’s the key with a rebuildable shock.

 

Throwing coil overs at this is not going to fix the ops issue. You have either something done wrong, or your wheel and tire setup is mostly to blame, and potentially both. A spacer does not make it ride worse (on a DB kit guys. Calm down) being that everything else was lowered as well (hence drop bracket) I've ridden (and owned) many drop bracket lifts and one of the pros is that they KEEP suspension geometry, so the should ride pretty good. Not the opposite.

So let's figure this out together starting with wheels and tires. What specific size wheels and tires are you running and what brand/model tires?

If your running a 20" rim with load range E tires your trucks gonna ride rough. If your running Super swampers your steering wheel is going to shake. If your running P or SL tires your trucks gonna ride great. . After that has your needle bearing been swapped? What year is your truck? Are your drive shaft u joints good? Are your CV Joints good? Etc. You could litterally swap out that whole lift, weld in oem frame crossmemebers and all, get it all good with the best 3" kit there is and still have the problem your having.

So, methodically, we can figure this out, but we need to know all your vehicles specs, lift specs, who installed it, and wheel/tire setup otherwise we are all shooting in the dark.

Actually. I think I figured it out... Your back right rim is bent lol jk



Also pics will help...

I guess all in all, what I'm trying to say, is your truck can ride great with that lift. There is something wrong with your truck, not just the wrong lift installed.

 

Forgive me for the last post sounding semi incoherent. I am laying currently in a German hospital for the second day in a row. My second daughter was born Sunday and I have not gotten almost any sleep in the last 2 days.

I truly believe we can get the op happy with his truck again.

We just need to diagnose what's going on and I don't think he ever told us complete specifics beside that I read he said the steering wheel shakes back and fourth. I'd like to know all the info on his truck. (Year trim 2wd 4wd etc)

Who installed lift.

Who aligned truck after lift.

What wheels and tires.

Etc.

 

I just looked at your profile. If this is your truck, I can say 100% without a shadow of a doubt your wheel and tire setup is contributing to your rough ride. Are those 20x12 or 20x10? Still give is full specs please. Sorry. Totally scammed your pic. Lol

 

Also, just found a couple of your posts. Your running a 12" wide wheel and your tires are 12.5"s wide. Being that you are running a 33" tire you have almost no side wall left on that rim, and your tires are already stretched to even fit on that wheel. That is part of your problem. I like 12.5s on a 12" wide wheel. I had a diesel truck built like that. Luckily, diesel trucks are much more stout, mine was much more sound proofed, etc so it didn't bother me. On these little trucks, that's gonna cause ALOT of ride problems. I'm also assuming they are E rated tires.

 

They are 20x12 wheels on 33 12.50 Atturo trail blades. My lift is a 6” Rough Country Lift. This place called Elite Jeeps installed it and Good Year aligned it.

 

2015 TRD Sport and 4wd

 

I’d start there, as mentioned by one of the other guys. Are the wheels hub centric? If those wheels have no weight on the outer edge but only inside edge and inside wheel, they’ll show balanced but with that wide a wheel not the best way to do it. Don’t know much of that tire brand quality?

 

They have hub centric rings installed in them. Which made the ride better.

I honestly just want to have a truck that has a sorta enjoyable ride

 

How many miles on your truck?

 

50K

 

What’s your willingness to go down wheel/tire size? Something like a 17 or 18 wheel.

 

I could probably go to an 18 but has to be offset because of the lift.

 

I’ve heard Atturo’s are hard to balance

 

So here's my opinion. I had the Atturo Trail Blade XT on my truck with 20x12s! I think that your biggest problem is those wheels and tires. A 33x12.50 tire does not actually measure 33x12.50. the tire is not going to measure 12.50 wide, but the rim is. What they then have to do is stretch your tire to fit your rim. The sidewalk probable looks about flush or slightly angled to stretch to seat on the wheel. Now, your running a tire that is already firm sidewalled, then stretching it, and then it is only a 33" tire going on a 20" rim. The reason I said that last part is that you are dang near running low profile tires. This results in a more jarring rough ride. I remember my 35x12.50s on my truck being pretty firm, and me looking at those thinking I didn't have much side wall. I also remember the slant of the tire from the stretch.

Anyway, first thing I'd do is swap out those wheels to a 17" (possibly 18 but I prefer 17). Rough Country is the only drop bracket lift on the market that allows (and recommends) a 17" wheel. You can absolutely run that. I believe the required backspacing is 4.50 or 4.80 either way it's easy to check on their website. You need to get a set of tires that are from a reputable brand that are reviewed as riding good. There are some cheaper brands that have great reviews out there (Cooper, Falkien, Toyo's A/T line).

If you were near me I'd let you borrow my wheels and tires to test. Maybe you can find someone?

After that, if you still have issues, in my opinion you need to go have a suspension and drivetrain shake down/inspection. They are usually cheap and sometimes even free. They are going to tell you everything wrong with your truck, and some of it could be just them trying to make money, but as I said before it is not your lift choice, it is that there is something wrong with your truck.

It is possible it's a CV axle, driveshaft joint, ball joint, your need bearing, etc. It's impossible to know unless your actually looking at it.

What happens ALOT is people install a lift on their truck with 50-150k miles and then their truck ride rough and they hate it. Usually they out load range E tires on with some stupid aggressive tread patter and stretched their wheels and hate it. Another common situation is that people lift there vehicle, put the right tires and wheels on, but they aggravate an issue that was already their with the lift or install. After that the truck has a vibe or whatever and the lift kit is blamed but in reality there CV axle or u joints was already almost shot but you just jerked with it during install or added a little angle in it and sped up the failure quicker.

Anyway, If you have any questions feel free to ask. I'll be watching this thread for updates.

I'd take it back to elite Jeeps and tell them my problem.

 

Imo OP. I’d go to 17x8.5 -10 or 12 that gets you back space needed. Or even 17x9 then you need approx -24 as RC backspace requirement is 4 5/8” BS. Then probably a higher quality tire plenty of choices in 17.

 

Same here, but 37's.