Feeling uneasy about alignment, I could use some help

Hey guys, ever since installing some Falkens on my taco, I felt that the ride has been slightly off compared to when I first bought the truck (and not in the good way, but not bad either). So I took it in to get another alignment and these are the specs they gave me. It almost looks like the alignment is worse than when I brought it in. It's probably just my eyes playing tricks on me but the front tires just so much more tilted in than what I want, I'd like for them to have a more balanced and even look instead of something like this.
\--/

I'd like closer to this:

|--|

Stock suspension with 265/70/17 on stock wheels
I have 1-year of alignments with the shop so I can go back in and get it realigned to better spec.

edit: things are in spec, but is there a better alignment setup y'all would suggest for front caster and camber?

Edit2: going for realignment Wednesday,
0.3 camber, keep toe 0.05, caster 2.2-2.5 to compensate for road crown drift unless someone can convince me otherwise


Here are the alignment specs

 

They basically did almost nothing except a minor toe adjustment. They did not change camber at all. It is within spec. Wheels should look like l--l with those settings, perfectly upright would be 0.0 camber on both sides.

 

You're imagining it for the most part...
Determining appropriate camber based on eyeballing plumb is like setting tire pressure by the bulge of the tire...
.
Stock spec is;
+2.2 caster
+0.5 camber
+0.05 toe

Alignment is a static measurement...
When it's driven, dynamic forces zero camber and toe.
Cross camber looks fucky, but other than that...

What, in particular, is not right about the "ride"?

 

Looking at that chart it's all with spec. Cross camber at 0.4 is a bit high but within spec (usually 0.5).

Do you have any issues? If not I would say drive it.

 

Spent a decent bit but its good to have peace of mind and now I can go get it realigned when I install new lift, wheels, tires.

It has been drifting to the left, I was expecting it to be drifting to the right due to road crown

 

Is it drifting to the left with hands off the steering wheel or holding the steering wheel straight?

 

hands off. So to drive straight I have to tilt my steering wheel slightly to the right

 

I know the readout is showing that camber is super close to zero, but tomorrow I'll post a photo of the front. It's extremely noticeable how positive cambered they are. It's something I noticed pre-alignment but I didn't REALLY notice until i've looked at it for a good while.

I can go and get a realignment for free tomorrow.

 

Thing is, your cross camber is cancelling out cross caster, as far as compensating for road crown goes. That leaves 0.10 thrust angle... which shouldn't make a real difference.
Sounds like you need the steering wheel re-centered.

 

Have them get those caster numbers switched with 2.0 on the RF with the 1.9 on the Lf and even out the camber so they match instead of both leaning to the right

<<<Alignment tech

 

This is correct but it may also be causing the drift to the left with the caster being set as it is.

And hello @splitbolt

 

I'll get some pics tomorrow when its light out!

Sounds good, I set up an appt. for wednesday morning.

How about these specs for camber and toe:

Camber:
0 to -.1 for both, preferably closer to zero

Toe:
0.2 for both

as for caster, I should aim for anywhere in the 2 to 2.5 range right? I mostly drive at high speeds on the toll ways

 

You are correct...
I just realized after reading your previous post; I got left and right caster switched.

 

I would try to get camber somewhere around 0.5 (preferred according to the specs for my 17) and leave the toe alone. 2 is good for caster just make sure it is even or slightly higher w/2.2-2.5 on the RF to compensate for road crown.

 

Why are so many of the posts on here saying go for a 0,0,2.5 setup? I'm trying to avoid the \--/ look and the wear and tear associated with it. I figured 0 to 0.1 camber would be perfect

 

I do many Tacoma alignments.

You WANT positive toe. As the truck pushes down the road, it pushes the toe negative. And as the truck wears and time progesses, the alignment always goes negative.

So I set near the top end of toe limits, especially lifted trucks with bigger tires, usually 0.9 on any tire larger than stock.

Positive toe in also gives you better handling in the long run. I've tried zero toe on many vehicles front and rear with 0 camber and its awful.

I'd want more caster (2.5ish), and the camber should be positive on left and right.( about 0.3 or more)

 

Did you mean 0.09 toe? 0.9 would be out of spec.

What about I keep toe at what its at for both sides (0.05) and camber to 0.2?

 

Its the positive-camber look the truck has from the front, that he is talking about. I truly believe its an "optical illusion" for lack of a better term, or more that it is a tall high sitting truck that allows a person to see a great deal of the WHOLE tire and its orientation VS. the virtually hidden road-car we are otherwise used to, that amplifies the "positive camber" look of the truck from head on.

Its a case of the old "message-board mental-illness" that gets us ALL from time to time.... where millimeters, half-degrees and inches are viewed with such EXTREME dysmorphia it would be nutty to a person who didnt also have the same illness. (our shared obsession with our trucks and the lift/tire size/stance etc..)

I guess what I mean is: the numbers wont lie, everything else is in your head, and proper geometry and function is FIRST over everything else.

 

Bingo