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2nd Gen Lower Control Arm replacement

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Graphitej, Oct 6, 2017.

  1. Oct 6, 2017 at 8:49 AM
    #1
    Graphitej

    Graphitej [OP] Member

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    Hey everyone,

    I have been googling, and you tubing to no avail. I need a step by step on how to change out the lower control arms on my 2010 tacoma. I have seen a few videos on other model years , but they were 4x4, not 2wd. I have Moog and the ball joint comes with the lca. If anyone has any info please help. I also searched but cannot find the service manual for my year and the links to posts with a pdf are dead.
     
  2. Oct 6, 2017 at 9:10 AM
    #2
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    FYI a 4x4 LCA and 2wd (prerunner 6 lug) lca in the 2nd gens are identical.

    Process would be simple, jack truck up, remove 2 bolts that hold the lower ball joint bracket onto the spindle, remove lower shock bolt, remove 2 bolts that hold the lca to the frame. Press off lower ball joint bracket off old LCA, put on new LCA. Then reverse the process. Make sure to tighten the frame to LCA bolts and lower shock bolt AT RIDE HEIGHT, otherwise you will rip the bonded rubber bushings.
     
  3. Oct 6, 2017 at 9:15 AM
    #3
    M192

    M192 Well-Known Member

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    Hmm never heard of that. I didn't do that when I did minelast year. :anonymous:
     
  4. Oct 6, 2017 at 9:27 AM
    #4
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    Just think about it. The center metal part of the bushing that gets clamped by the frame and DOES NOT rotate, is bonded to the rubber that is then bonded to the outer part of the bushing that rotates with the LCA itself. Not this rubber flexes and can account for so much deflection, but its alot of constant extra strain if the bushing is clamped at full droop. then dropped to ride height where it is now being twisted constantly even if its not cycling, then at full compression its WAY beyond what it was designed for.

    This exact reason is why SPC UCA's switched from a bonded style rubber bushing to a free floating center one, because people would install them incorrectly and not follow directions that stated TIGHTEN MAIN BOLT AT RIDE HEIGHT.
     
  5. Oct 6, 2017 at 9:59 AM
    #5
    Graphitej

    Graphitej [OP] Member

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    Are you saying to press off using a press? My moogs, have the ball joint already pressed into the lca. Forgive me if I'm missing something here. And for ride height, are you saying jack the lca up so it's parallel to road and tighten? (Only way I can think to replicate ride height without mounting tire and lowering off Jacks to ground)
     
  6. Oct 6, 2017 at 10:21 AM
    #6
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    There is a little bracket that gets bolted to the bottom of the lower ball joint. This bracket is what gets two big bolts to hold the LCA to the spindle. you will understand if you poke your head in there.

    As far as rideheight, get all the bolts in and leave the LCA to frame cam bolts loose as well as the lower shock bolt and pop your jack under the stud of the lower ball joint and lift from there and jack it up till you are at ride height (not necessarily parallel to the ground ... just whatever is normal for your truck) Adjust the cams, then tighten down to 100ftlbs. I forget what torque is for the lower shock bolt.
     
  7. Jun 18, 2018 at 8:25 AM
    #7
    RhodeIsland4bang

    RhodeIsland4bang Back seats are for freeloaders!

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    I’m going to do one of my control arms today, the only question I have is once I’ve taken the bracket off of the old control arm that holds the lower ball joint, how do I get it onto the new one? Or do I need to press it or will it just go on?
     
  8. Mar 21, 2019 at 5:49 AM
    #8
    Graphitej

    Graphitej [OP] Member

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  9. Mar 21, 2019 at 5:50 AM
    #9
    Graphitej

    Graphitej [OP] Member

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    Just realized this was from last year haha
     
    b_r_o and whatstcp like this.
  10. Mar 21, 2019 at 7:15 PM
    #10
    RhodeIsland4bang

    RhodeIsland4bang Back seats are for freeloaders!

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    No worries, thanks though, my control arms are actually for sale now because I got new ones with the new frame
     
  11. Mar 22, 2019 at 6:49 AM
    #11
    Graphitej

    Graphitej [OP] Member

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    New frame? As in the whole truck frame? What happened
     
  12. Mar 22, 2019 at 12:50 PM
    #12
    RhodeIsland4bang

    RhodeIsland4bang Back seats are for freeloaders!

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    My dude, there is a recall out on many Tacoma’s for premature frame rust, so they used to buy them back at 1.5 times Kelly blue book value on the first generations, now they are replacing entire frames at no cost to the owner on second gens.

    The replacement included a lot of new nuts and bolts, new lower control arms, all new brake lines, and would have included leaf springs if they hadn’t been replaced under a TSB already.

    I had just replaced my LCAs because I needed new lower ball joints so my nearly new ones went up for sale.

    Your truck year falls under the frame recall I THINK and definitely under the leaf spring TSB. Do some searching online it can’t hurt. They should mail you something about the recall depending on where you live (snow, salt) and you are entitled to a frame inspection if applicable.
     
  13. Apr 10, 2019 at 10:55 AM
    #13
    NYCTaco52

    NYCTaco52 Half man, half goat

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    He’s talking about the steering bracket, Moog arms come preassembled so no need to press anything
     
  14. Apr 15, 2019 at 12:12 PM
    #14
    RhodeIsland4bang

    RhodeIsland4bang Back seats are for freeloaders!

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    Yeah you got it, the steering bracket is the piece that you have to reuse, everything else (ball joints and bushings) comes pre-assembled.

    I never did find out so I just ended up paying to have them installed.
     
  15. Apr 15, 2019 at 1:24 PM
    #15
    NYCTaco52

    NYCTaco52 Half man, half goat

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    I’m seriously considering going that route, I just did my uppers, lowers, full lift with leaf packs and tie rods, I seriously don’t have the time or patience to get under the truck again right now. What did you pay if you don’t mind me asking. @RhodeIsland4bang
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2019
  16. Apr 16, 2019 at 9:25 AM
    #16
    RhodeIsland4bang

    RhodeIsland4bang Back seats are for freeloaders!

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    Ugh, I don’t want to think about it, OEM parts were $600, dealer installed... :spending::facepalm:
     
  17. Apr 16, 2019 at 9:47 AM
    #17
    NYCTaco52

    NYCTaco52 Half man, half goat

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    600 to install the steering rack bushings :censored::censored::censored::censored:. Corporations....
     
  18. Feb 12, 2020 at 11:50 AM
    #18
    CanOfRockstar

    CanOfRockstar Active Member

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    The one thing everyone fails to mention about the LCAs is that the Cam Adjuster inside the front bushing gets rusted in and will not come out, I was able to somehow get one side partially out enough to get the LCA out of the frame housing, but the other side I'm having to use a cut off wheel and cut it after bending the sides of the frame housing. I love how everyone says "just slide the bolts out and LCA drops right out"
     
  19. Feb 12, 2020 at 12:09 PM
    #19
    NYCTaco52

    NYCTaco52 Half man, half goat

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    Dude, theres literally multiple entire threads on here dedicated to the cams rusting inside the housing. Like google it, hundreds of tacoma owners talk about it in detail and have been for years. Maybe some research next time before starting work on the truck?
     
  20. Feb 12, 2020 at 12:16 PM
    #20
    coopcooper

    coopcooper certified youtube mechanic

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    if you buy lcas that come with everything you don't gotta worry about saving anything. plus the cam bolt kit is like 40 bucks. :sawzall:
     

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