DIY Tailgate Inner Panel Cover

Ok. 100% finished







In this next shot, you can see how much shorter the bottom edge is then the oem piece. This is needed so it doesn’t bind against the edge of the bed because the gap is less than 1/4”.

 

Looks good I might just have to do mine.

 

Looks a lot nicer than mine.

 

I like the countersinking idea. Maybe a hinged gap-flap along the bottom too.

 

Looks really clean- reminds me of the panels on the land cruisers. Would be cool to add a lock/ hinge/ and a pocket to that setup.

 

I thought about that at one point. The space inside isn’t very deep though.

 

Very clean install, looks good.

 

Can you link (or part #) for the hardware inserts?

 

There's a few different ways to get those holes. What you have to remember is that holes saws have a drill bit in the center to guide them.
1. Cut the panel to fit first. Cut the appropriate size hole in a short 1x4, clamp it on the finished size panel in the correct places for a guide, and cut holes. When using the guide, the need for the drill bit to engage first is bypassed. Easiest way.
2. Cut them out when the panel is still oversize, then cut the panel to fit. Easy as #1, because you have to measure precisely anyhow.
3. Cut the panel to fit first. Clamp the panel to a workbench and clamp a cutoff piece butted to the edge. Cut hole as usual. Similar to #2 but a poorer choice because more than likely the drill bit will need to be ~1/16" on either side of the butted joint and might want to wander into it when you start.

 

Here is my new tailgate.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Mari...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I bough this and routed the shape of the old tailgate. I had to make the latch notches a little bigger and cut the width narrower. Im sure it would help if you cut a bevel on the bottom. I also cut the rubber bump stops on the tailgate. Used a forester bit to countersink the smaller screws and I also hammered off the washers using a socket set. Its not perfect but it was well under $100.

 

How long did it take to make?

 

I don't get it. eBay link shows material is $70.

Fabricated metal one isn't much more

 

@TacoTuesday1 The price has been changing. It might be worth it to shop around. When I ordered a few months back it was $50.

@ah805 Depending on how well you are with power tools, a few hours. I broke it up over multiple days, but i would say its no more than a 3 beer project if you do it all at once.

 

Saw these back in my Land Cruiser days and am not sure if it would be worth it other than for the trickness factor, but...

 

I thought about building a hatch but besides being lazy, I just couldn't figure what I'd put in there besides my tow strap, tree saver strap and soft shackles. There are drains at the bottom of the tailgate so you can't put anything small and the metal is relatively thin so can't put anything hard or that might bounce around. It's a really neat idea and I'm a fan of gadgets, I just couldn't see the practicality of it vs. the cost.

 

I was looking at the tailgate today in preparation for copying your HDPE replacement. I noticed there is a ridge on the bottom/bed side of the tailgate sheet metal that seems like it's going to create a gap on the rounded corners. Did you guys run into any issues there or come up with a solution to keep it flat?

 

Given how flimsy the skin is I’m not down with tossing anything in there to rattle around. Maybe after adding an inner skin.

 

I'm intrested in the beer holder?!?!?!?!

 

Maybe flathead screws instead of button head cap screws? How thick is your material?

 

It’s a cup holder sold for rv’s. You can find them at pepboys’s, o’reilly’s etc.