Let's see your FJ case swap

https://www.rocksolidtoys.com/single-post/2017/09/04/Swapping-inputs-on-the-FJ-Cruiser-T-case

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fj-cruiser-t-case-install-in-2007-tacoma-6-speed-manual.182470/

 

Yup this.

 

I'll leave this here too. This should be the wiring instructions for the ADD switch

https://www.rocksolidtoys.com/single-post/2017/08/25/05-Tacoma-IFS-T-case-swap-wiring-instructions

 

Ok, so the transfer case is in and runs smooth. Even got the sensor lights working. However, the ADD won’t kick over. Took it off to test the motor. Mine is very clean but I did the solder on the post just to ensure a good connection. The problem is that when I supply the motor power I can’t get it to spin unless I give the worm gear a slight budge with my finger while supplying power. Basically the voltage being applied isn’t enough to kick it over. I’ve tried running straight from the battery and checked the voltage with a volt meter so I know the supply isn’t the problem. Is it just time for a new ADD, or does anybody have any suggestions on anything else to try?

 

Is that the diagram that uses the limit switches?

 

Have you taken it apart, cleaned it and regreased it?

 

yes, haven’t actually gone as far as to remove the motor from the plastic housing, but when I power the motor there is nothing attached to it (it’s not under any load), it’s just bolted into the housing. I’ll try removing it and see if the motor will spin free

 

You can replace just the motor itself if you determine it’s messed up. I think they are just 12v 550series can motors. Probably $5.

 

Thanks! that was the goal

 

Get rid of the ADD. Replace with FJ diff tube and never look back

 

So what’s the different between doing the FJ tube swap or just sliding the fork over and reinstalling the ADD to where it’s just always on?

 

Did you do a add delete? Is it true that the fj case can fail from being over stressed if driven daily and on highway frequently?someone talked me out of it and I dont know which way to go! I have all the parts including the diff tube just waiting for the twin stick before I put in the t case

 

you are correct that the spline counts are different, the rest of the internals are the same and it is still a VF2BM transfer case.

Functionally nothing, but think of the weak points in the clutch hub and gearing between the CV compared to a single axle shaft and you will come to the right decision to make.

That's also a bunch of BS. The auto transmission and manual transmission FJ cases are the same case minus the center differential on the manual transmission t-case. The gearing, oil pump, input shaft, output shafts are all the same so anyone that says that the auto transmission FJ case can fail from that is just wrong.

 

So are there guys who have ran the t cases with front diff spinning all time for years without issues?

 

Yeah the guy you quoted has

 

This VVVVV. I've had the setup for about 4 years now and no issues. Just drained my t-case fluid this weekend doing a clutch job and the fluid still looked tits.

 

If you are second guessing the fj tube, let me know. I could give it a good home...

 

100% just the motor that’s an issue. Any leads on where to buy a replacement one? Thought I remembered a thread on this from a while back - remembered it gets pretty tricking making sure the gap for the coupling is correct.

 

The motor should have a supplier p/n on the side of the can. Post that number here. Measure the diameter of the shaft (probably in mm). Post both of those things and I’ll find you a motor that should work.

 

here are the measurements:

Shaft DIA: 2.3mm

Housing Length: 37.8mm

Housing DIA: 27.5mm

Two threaded holes on front face for bracket, 16mm apart and each 8mm from center.

There is a part number printed, but it is severely faded and I can’t make out the numbers very well.
My best guess at what it reads:
RS-58511-5665
RO679685