Crunchy Taco? - 1st gen on 35s BS

So what you're telling me is I can cut those threads off, put the nut on, stake it, and live the rest of my life in peace?

 

Probably not.

Even if you weld it on, I'd tell you to check it regularly.

"Trust but verify." as someone once said.

 

that's all I'm taking away from this

 

That's what I did on mine, I accept no liability!!

Whatever you do make sure you can stake it!!

After reading this and watching TT motorsports taco walk around, I'm stealing his idea of a driveshaft limit strap so I dont pogo.

 

... there’s a reason you stake em!

 

The new Toyota awd cars have cages to prevent them from dropping to theground. can indeed say it works. Straps for a truck should be fine

 

Any idea what the thread size and pitch are? Maybe I can find a big ass die to save it with. Either way I am looking for a good used driveshaft and will probably keep this one as a spare.


Since I had the rear diff apart to do the axle seals the fluid was still new; when checking stuff out on the side of the road I found a lot of glitter in it... Hope I don't yardsale my gears next. That would end my wheeling season I think.

I plan on changing it yet again but am still nervous

 

It's some metric size meaning the die will probibly be more than a "new" used driveshaft.

 

Try a thread file before you buy a die. And call Aaron to discuss the fix.

 

Agreed, I found the build quality to be decent but the design and fit was terrible, the welded outlet flange was positioned wrong and if I could have gotten it to bolt up it would have dumped out in front of the driver’s side rear tire! Total POS. I junked mine and looked at options the next winter, ended up getting a TRD header for $498 from a dealership on eBay.
After the fight with the DNA header the TRD went together super easy, - comparatively.

 

have you used a blow gun on your ARB compressor?

Does yours have like a fine oil mist that comes out of it? I was airing up my tires testing it out and noticed that when I disconnected the under pressure air line or used a blow gun that there would be an oily residue on my hands.

 

I have not. Are you sure that it wasn't condensation?

 

Could be, but it was awfully slick. Not just water/condensation. Gonna call ARB and ask tomorrow. I'm thinking it's cause it's new and might just be assembly oil or something.

 

Better safe than sorry. Never heard of anything like that though.

 

With my cheapy Amazon calipers I came up with M18x2.0 but that doesn't seem right. My partner has a pretty comprehensive M16-M24 die set I can borrow; I just forgot to bring it back with me but I know it had M18x1.50 and M18x2.5. I figure I can chase it, slather it in red loctite, and stake a new nut on there and have no worries.

Probably have more info on my fix next week since I want to order a new nut from Toyota anyways

 

Those threads don't look good....like they were over torqued or something. Down by the splines, especially.

 

As if my Tacoma-to-do list doesn't have enough items I ordered a new wheel to mock up and check fitment with. I like the look of my current setup but I really don't like having to mess with the spacers every time I tear into things.

 

17s make life so much easier. Get some beadlocks while you are at it.

 

My plan was to do TMI weld ons.

Want to make sure that this wheel will clear the calipers (some of the reviews on summit suggested they wouldn't due to the back side of the dimple and I'm having a hard time with that )

 

Stealing my partners skookum sizes HF tap and die set to chase the threads on my driveshaft later this week. Have a new nut coming in the mail so I can put it together and move on to the next project. I should probably tackle that timing set, water pump, and injectors