Ontario BS Thread

Rack is in the works, there are only 2 options really. Guy here on TW making with his dad modified tacoma rack using tundra parts and then Marlin rack that may be released one day, those guys are fvcking slow.... I have third option, got a friend that can machine and make it happen too, all depends on cost.

Whoever chose MT at Toyota when they designed turd gen knew that 35s are meant to be on tacoma, the gearing is almost perfect at 4.30, I need 4.56. So I don't have to re-gear and that's a big savings here.

 

That looks awesome, I'd love to go try some beginner trails, and watch other peoples carnage...

Thanks for this, I hadnt thought about recovery points on the truck. I think I'll be building steel skid plates, I have some 1/4" aluminium plate kicking around, but I'm worried out it cracking/work hardening. Now to look into exhaust rerouting!


How far out should sliders stick out? I've got some tube to go get bent, so i figure id throw on some tube for sliders at the same time.

 

https://youtu.be/3NnsBR9vTxU
https://youtu.be/8ocj3PJAwrk
a couple cool vids

 

I built mine out of 3/16 and pretty much copied whatever i thought looked best on the interwebs

Not too far but further than the body. I can take some measurements after work
I bugged the hell out of @Joe23 when i was building mine before i joined here

Theres some cad files floating around for mounting plates if you’re doing bolt on sliders I think @tacoma16 has the link

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-bolt-on-frame-plates-for-sliders.302192/

 

1. @Norilsk
2. @Canadianguy91
3. @3JOH22A
4. @Toms2Yotas
5. @weight
6. @Snail81
7. @cwisema
8. @Shveet (I'll use the extra recovery board @llamasmurf to get over the curbs)

 

@Crayons heres some shitty pictures of roughly where i built mine to. (ignore the rust I'm dealing with it in the spring.)
And one of my skids

Frame plates are 3/16
Square is 2x2” .125 wall
Tube is 1.75” .120 wall DOM

i can take more if you need them
I’ll probably be pulling my skids off in a couple months. You can copy them if you want

You can see the clearance i did on the skids for the exhaust because i didnt do the reroute. It hits everything


measurement to the rocker panel

 

@Crayons If you go with a small lift, you could fit 285's with not too much rubbing. I ran the Toytec Ultimate lift, with OME Dakar leaf springs for years with no armor and no significant damage to my DD, with regular wheeling. Choose your lines and know your limits - you'll be fine.
You could start with a simple block and spacer lift for <$300, get your 285's and save up for a proper suspension lift that'll run you a couple grand.
Or like @tgelata said, you could get 265's with no lift at all and still be able to run most of the trails at Ardbeg.
It's just a matter of how much you want to spend

As for recovery points, there is a stock welded loop on the left front that you can use. For the rear, you could just install a trailer hitch and buy a hitch mount recovery shackle from Princess Auto like this: https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/5-ton-hitch-mount-tow-shackle/A-p8598377e

 

WARNING DO NOT USE IT

That loop is for transportation only, it's not designed or rated for pulls. Do not use it, can result in flying objects and ripped loop from the frame.

 

Anyone know where i can find 80/20 1515 extruded aluminum t-slot bar without needing to special order the stuff?
Needs to be the 1 1/2 inch stuff....and needs to be 6feet long at a minimum



Trying to build something and i cant for the life of me find something local to do a quick 2 second test fit...
Also hoping that place isn't going to charge me an arm and a leg.

No, i'm not building a prinsu rack

Fastenall doesnt stock it,
Metal superstore doesn:t know what it is either

 

Oh this is perfect! I kinda guessed about 14" from frame to edge of slider, so looks like i wasn't far off. Thanks for the pics, it confirmed i wasnt crazy with my measurements. I think for the skid plates i should go measure and design them myself. Half the fun of the building is the measuring.

Side note I've got a great powder coater if you want to get stuff powder coated. They can do a Zinc primer powder coat before the top coat, its the step before galvanizing for rust protection.

 

Try these guys: http://goldentrianglesteel.com/index.html
GOLDEN TRIANGLE SPECIALTY METALS
1.800.265.7849
sales@goldentrianglesteel.com

 

I screwed up the finish of my SSO slimline bumper, the fender brackets for it, and i just got in the front bumper reinforcement bars from c4 fab that is still uncoated,,i'd love to take advantage of a powdercoating machine.

Otherwise i was planning to strip all of the paint on the bumper ane parts and just spray on truck bed liner ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

I'll give these guys a call during my lunch, thanks for the tip!

 

@Crayons and anyone else, I'll be going on a beginner, stock friendly trail run with some Jeep friends (and maybe @OrangeTaco101) in May. We will be doing Boundry Rd., Wild Turkey Rd., and Hoggsback. These are North of Oshawa. We will be taking a couple other first timers out as well. You are more than welcome to join us.

I'd be interested in getting a quote for powder coating my skid plates. I got them at Christmas, and have been waiting for the warmer weather of spring to paint them.

 

Hmm... Ya, I'm in

 

As long as it's not May 16th, as it's my mums birthday, I'm game to join an easy fun run!

 

Yeah i did the same thing, i measured the fame and had a place bend me 2 pieces of 3/16 and laid it all out and did my own thing

thanks. Ive got a paint/ powder coat place that we use through work im going to get them to give me a quote.

i was trying to avoid putting money into the paint since they’re just going to get beat to shit anyways. But i never got around to touching up the spray bomb before winter and it all went downhill from there

 

Speaking of fun runs,
@ODSC1 anytime you wanna do another fun run in Bancroft, shoot me a message!

@Snail81 you're coming with as you should know the area very well it's an hour drive from Ontarios first Polish settlement

 

Not the best shots to describe what I'm talking about but;

Mine are 20 deg angle, and without the kickout, if you put a piece of wood vertical you would measure 1" further out than the highest point on the door,
about 2" and a little bit at the kickout.

Helps with kissing trees and especially door dings.

I'd even go a little bit more if I had to do it all over again...

Sliding off-camber into a tree... you want them sticking out as much as possible....