The 5.29 Mega Thread!!

What he said ^^^^^^^^^^^ though my mileage went up, i was in 14.7 and now i am 17.3 - 19.3 in town, though have not done much of highway traffic except break in pattern. Will see how fuel econ will be down the road, but as he ^^^ said well worth it.

 

1) $2700 for gears, master install kit, cryo, REM, labor. You likely will never beat this price.
2) 285/75, 35x12.5
3) Whatever the speed limit is..though I like to stick around 65-70mph for gas savings.

 

Cool. Thanks. I thought it looked better than some of the images I've seen on these boards. The new oil was definitely cleaner than the stuff I drained, but I expected the old stuff to be black. It was surprisingly clean. I drove the truck this evening for about 25 miles round trip up to about 70 mph. The diff still feels pretty dang hot to the touch afterward. Im guessing that's normal for the bigger gears.

 

Your diff is going to run around 140 degrees so hot is normal. You don’t want it to creep up to 170,180,200 etc but I’d expect higher temps under load.

 

@Crionchip

 

I think I'll try to take the temps one day. 140F is hot, but I'm not sure what that translates to as far as putting my hand on the back of the diff after a drive. Side note..70mph on 285s doesn't feel bad at all with the gears. Gas mileage doesn't look as good as I hoped for. Unloaded I will get 20mpg at 60mph, but I just threw a used shell on the back and I'm assuming that will take away from it. Doesn't really matter to me, I love the truck. Looking forward to 2.0 release so I can get off of the stock tune.

 

1) Just below $2600 out the door parts and labor for my 5.29s. Got the gears during a sale and before the labor rate of my shop slightly increased
2) 285/75r16
3) Max speed on the roads I drive around Denver is 65 so I’m normally within 5mph of that. Truck doesn’t struggle to maintain those speeds, even up steep passes in the mountains. Feels much smoother overall

 

Not sure what happened, but went in today to get the pinion seal and blue connector replaced. They got the pinion seal done but the connector had the wrong plug end on it. Is 828240K060 the correct part number?

 

Put your VIN number in here and see what it says?: https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~connector~wiring~ha~82824-0k060.html

 

Although putting my vin into that site lists it as an SR5 which it definitely is not, it does verify fitment. Looks like the perfect storm of nonsense and a wrong part getting packed by Toyota. Oh well, it’ll be done tomorrow....I hope!

 

Are you saying that you didn't actually receive the correct 82824-08060 part and it was something different?

 

This is all second hand from the shop, but according to them it was the right packaging but the wrong part in the packaging.

 

Wow, terrible luck!

 

Anything over an sr is listed as an SR5. It is just packages slapped on the same thing. That is how you get your Sport, OR, limited ect

 

Hey thanks everyone @urchim @JoeCOVA @Colorado_Taco17 for the replies.

 

In my Nitro Master Install Kits, there are more than two gasket seals. Looking at this thread, it looks like it was recommended to replace these with factory OEM seals since they were much better. So I purchased the front and rear pinion seals to replace the Nitro supplied ones (circled in this image in BLUE). However, it looks like there are two others? I'm guessing these are axles seals? (circled in RED).

Are people also purchasing the OEM ones to replace these as well? If so, does anyone have the OEM part numbers?

 

Well that didn’t fix the issue. Pinion leak is fixed but the intermittent light already came back. Any thoughts on what else it could be other than the entire diff?

 

I wonder if they damaged or installed the locker indicator thing wrong. It's a possibility. Other than that, they may have stretched the elocker wiring and now it's shorting because of a break.

 

Is the locker indicator thing the blue connector or another part?

 

It's another part. It's a plunger type switch. When the locker engages, it pulls toward the ring gear and the switch inside get pulled with it. It should have a black housing for it near the elocker connector. Its held in the housing with a single 10mm bolt.