Lift advice

So I've read through as many threads as I could (along with the weekly FB group posts re: lifts) to have a half-decent understanding of what's out there...I think. That said, I'm not a "car guy" and my technical knowledge is lacking. I drive a 2020 TRD Sport with SEMA 17" wheels and 265/70/r17 Nitto Grapplers. This is my daily driver, mostly local/hwy driving without a plan for much offroading, short of the occasional camping and biking trips.

I am interested in a lift/level, primarily for aesthetics - i'd like to it look a bit meaner/more aggressive. I was thinking no more than 3/2 but lower would be ok as well. I'd like to try to preserve the quality of the ride on the road as this is the primary use of the truck and want to try to minimize risk of excessive wear. I'd plan to keep the current tires but would eventually consider 33's if possible. I would like to stay under $2K if possible, but based on what I have been given in terms of estimates locally, this seems like I may be off in my expectations?

I reached out to a local shop, recommended by the dealership. The owner was super nice, seemed very knowledgeable and gave me some options. He recommended a suspension lift, using Toyotec shocks, but discussed the possibility, because of cost, of starting with an option that would allow me to upgrade later? He sent me the following options as the "full lift" and the "lesser" packages. I am wondering if these seem reasonable, the costs appropriate and/or if you'd suggest another option.

 

Stay away from spacer lifts. Been there got rid of that shit! 4K for looks. A little much. There are a lot of great kits. You will get a lot of advice. 5100’s for me 1.5” front 1.5” rear lift factory rake. Perfect for me light off-roading and camping etc. Good luck

 

So the first option is a mid level setup with 2.5" shocks. The install and alignment prices are good, but the price for the shocks and upper control arms/add a leafs are really high. You can get a much better deal from an online built kit (such as headstrong offroad) and maybe bring it to them to install. You can get really good value at $2-2.3k. However if you like how the suspension rides now consider Bilstein 5100 kits which you can get really cheap with add a leaf and upper control arms for like $1200-$1400 (half the price of the first quote when you include install!).

Option 2 is just a spacer lift. Nothing in your suspension will change. If you just want height it's okay. If you don't off road spacer kit is probably okay. But if you want better damping or you hit bumps a lot off roading this will not be a good purchase. This kit is not future proof. Meaning if you don't like it or you add weight you will probably need to get a new suspension system entirely to be happy.

 

Spacer lifts are fine. I had spacer lifts here and still did mild off roading. Don’t let people lead you to believe you need a high end suspension for looks and mild trails.

those expensive kits are great but overkill unless you drive a lot of dirt roads that are bumpy. With that said, my suspension was bumpy because it was essentially the stock suspension with spacers.

 

I did a 3/2 block and spacer lift from Toytec and am happy with it. Did it mostly for looks as I'm not off-roading ever (she's a pavement princess). The price is pretty much in line with what I paid; most shops will charge you the cost of the lift and then tack on labor. My truck has low mileage so I also did a rough country speedo recalibrator to compensate for the bigger tires

 

700+ for spacers is ridiculous for what you actually get imo. I think 6112's and 5160's are the best bang for your buck.

 

Just get an Eibach Pro kit and an add a leaf or leaf pack. $1500 tops.

 

That particular kit that you got priced seems a bit overkill for aesthetics. There are so many options out there that are less expensive, but still not a spacer lift. If you keep your factory UCAs, you can still get a decent Toytec kit for around $1200-1300, then add that $640 labor and you're still w/in your budget. Something like this... keeping the stock UCAs but still having the front diff drop and add-a-leaf in the rear.

 

Toytec boss is nice, just very expensive. 6112/5160 or cheaper 5100 Bilstein would be perfect. Since you are doing it mostly for looks, no need to spend $4k on suspension.

 

Many thanks for the responses. Just what I was looking for.

Is there any reason for my needs, to look at King, Icon or Fox (a friend with a Ram raves about his Fox coilovers...)?

 

Only reasons to go with kings or fox for your needs are:
Because you want to
Because you can
For the Bro cred
For the gram

 

You’re probably more confused now than you were before. I just did a 3” spacer lift, an Add A Leaf, and new UCA’s so I could run 285/70/17’s. The only off-roading I’ll be doing is driving on the beach. Aesthetically it’s a huge improvement but your MPG will suffer if you go with bigger tires and a sluggish vehicle will become even more sluggish. If you’re not going to go with 285’s though I wouldn’t change it at all but that’s just my opinion. Good luck!

 

Spacers lower the ride quality. Increase shock and spring wear drastically. So instead of spending $800+ on nice coilovers, you spent that on spacers and upper control arms? Poor use of $ IMO.

 

Can you buy your own lift and have a shop install it? I know that shops want to make something on the parts but that seems like a large amount for a lift that isn't going to be driven hard. You can get a 5100 lift kit with AAL for under $1000, add UCAs if needed.

 

@btrumpatori
Spacer lifts fill the budget needs for quite a few. They work and the ride is not terrible. Most people are going to suggest what they run and thats not bad as its testimony different systems do work. Now how do they compare to each other? That only comes from those who have driven most of the different systems.

Spacers:
Pro: Price and clears big tires.
Con: #1 they “lift” by increasing Preload on the OEM spring, on the OEM strut. The OEM struts rebound valuing is not set to Handel this added pre-load so rebound pushed though the valving faster. This effects the ride and handling overall. Not unbearable but when you go from spacer to dedicated lift springs/struts or coil overs its glaring. #2 not adjustable, you get what you get. #3 full strut taredown to install, basically the same labor for a mid level OME or Bilstein install.

Strut/spring:
Dedicated lift springs and struts (Old Man Emu) or Bilsteins with adjustable clips for pre load.
PRO: #1 Valving is set for lifted trucks so both compression and rebound are set for the higher spring rates. Handles generally well, most have a “firm” ride. #2 generally more costly than spacers but install costs about the same.
CON: #1 you get what you get for lift. Yes clips can be adjusted on Bilsteins but its not as adjustable as coilovers and require FULL taredown to adjust. #2 For large spring rate changes need new spring. #3 overall can be “firm” ride.

Coilovers: (Fox, King, ICON, Radflow = all min 2.5” on front and 2.0 for rear)
Pro: #1 best ride and handling overall. Designed for higher speed use, so great for daily driving on roads at speed. #2 incremental adjustment for ride height and future changes to your truck (add a bumper, winch, 2nd battery etc) fully adjustable on the truck without removing. #3 Fully rebuildable, no use and toss, rebuild and keep going. #4 easiest to install as they are 100% prebuilt, no compressing springs.
CON: #1 PRICE$$, just not cheep, quality rebuildable shocks just cost. #2 Will need service over time, lower bearings or seals.


In the end its how you plan to use the truck and what your budget will support. A lot of pepole think the high $$ coilovers are only for hard core off road. Not so, they really shine at high speed since they come from desert racing tech. Daily driving we feel the handling and control with them. Its the dedicated ranch truck or trail truck that generaly fits the best for the mid level dedicated strut/spring like OME or Bilsteins. Spacers will always be out there and if thats the only way that gets the tire you want, they do work.

Personally I just save up for a decent 2.5” front adjustable coilovers kit (IFP, Internal Floating Piston vrs. Remote Res.) then run 2.0” in the rear. Best overall handling and future growth for the truck and use.

BTW: IF you can do a brake job on a truck, you have the basic skills to install a coilover lift kit, its all bolt on. University of YouTube has plenty of how too’s. Plus a quality online shop will provide install support. We do, via phones and email.

Mark

 

Good info! Also-good to see Metal Tech on here!!!

 

Good lord. So the shop couldn’t give you a suspension option in the $1500 mark?

If you stated it was primary for looks, and that’s the only options the shop gave you, I’d look else ware. Doesn’t sound like he really took your needs into account.

 

Do the boss lift. You'll be happy with it. Even if it's for aesthetics. Most people who will think your truck "looks cool" will also think red coilover look cool. So in all seriousness just do the boss kit and be done with it.

 

Happy to share our experiences, been doing this for over 20yrs now so have had a chance to install, run and work with most of the suspension manufacturers. We make our decisions as to what brands we sell, based on how their products perform and most importantly how the brands support you the customer after the sale!