1998 Tacoma 5.3L Vortec (LS) Engine Swap Thread

Tank appears to be really clean inside for 20+ years old by looking at OEM sending unit.

 

The metal fuel line where the pump attaches needed a small trim to clear the top of the pump, about 11.1 mm.


I also modified the AEM rubber mount that attaches to the bottom of the pump to better match the stock mount.


And here is the pump mounted.



And power wire harness attached.


Ready to go back in the tank

 

Yes it was nice and clean inside.

 

I also ran larger power wires (12 GA) directly from the battery (and through a fuse) to the external connector on top of the sending unit. Here are the stock power wires and connector. I cut the pins off here and will re-use them, blue (positive), white/black (ground). Remember where they were pulled from at the connector.


Here are the pins getting soldered to the 12 GA wire, re-using the green rubber seals as well.








The green seals did need a little trimming in order fit in the connector. I used some silicone to help keep them in place and for a better seal.

 

I decided to keep the stock Tacoma 5/16" fuel hard line and 1/4" return hard line that runs from the gas tank to the engine bay. I read about other guys having success with similar sized fuel lines on stock 5.3 swaps. These fuel lines would not support higher horsepower or boosted applications. I'll worry about those upgrades later .

I used -6 AN fittings in the engine bay to go from the Tacoma fuel lines to the 5.3 fuel rail. For the return line connection, I used a Russell Push-On EFI fitting, part #641303: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-641303 I had to shorten the end of the 1/4" line to ensure the bump out/flare on the hard line was further inside the adapter. That flare is used to ensure the fitting stays on the end of the return line. You can just see the flare on the right side of the black fitting below, this was before I reduced its length.


The stock Tacoma pressure side fuel fitting is a reverse flare M14 x 1.5 mm (or at least that's what I thought)


I tried this steel -6 AN adapter, thinking it would just thread right on, sold by Suspicious Garage: https://suspiciousgarage.com/produc...-1-5mm-inverted-flare-to-an-6-adapter-fitting



When I went to install it, I was only able to get a few threads started before I felt significant resistance. Rather than risk stripping out the threads, I decided to go another direction. I welded the -6 AN adapter to the OEM crimped on fuel line connector that was still attached to the 3.4 L engine.



I cut the steel end of of the crimped connector

 

I kept the stock 5.3 L truck fuel rail that came with the engine. It has a fuel pressure regulator built in. The pressurized side is the top -6 AN fitting in the image below (Russell Push-On EFI Fitting Part #644123: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644123) and the return line is the bottom (Russell Push-On EFI Fitting Part #644113: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644113)

 

I used Russel -6 AN pre-made fuel line assemblies part #658520, 2 ft long each for the pressure and return lines going from the Tacoma hard lines to the 5.3L fuel rail: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-658520

 

I also put in a new fuel filter at this point. Here is the old one before it was replaced.

 

Now switching over to transmission fluid cooling for the 4L60E. I could have tried running lines to the bottom of the stock Tacoma radiator but I was not sure if it would be big enough for the 4L60E. I went with a frame mount heat sink transmission cooler instead, Summit Racing part #SUM-331018: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-331018

I initially picked up some used 4L60E transmission cooler hardlines from the junkyard. I cut and welded a few sections together.



The upper portion of the lines above are designed to push into these connectors on the side of the transmission.


My plan for the other end of the hard line to the cooler was to re-use the Tacoma soft transmission lines and use hose clamps for securing. But this ended up not working out, the hard lines had a slow leak of ATF at the welds. I had initially welded them up thinking they were mild steel but I believe they are actually stainless. I'm using a MIG welder with CO2 shielding gas. I ditched the above approach and decided to go the with the way more expensive -6 AN connectors and pre-made lines.

 

Man, what a fun project to follow. Thanks for all the detailed photos as you figure it out!

 

The cooler line fittings on side of the 4L60E are 1/4 NPSM, straight pipe thread not tapered. There is not much room between the transmission and fire wall/tunnel here. I had to use a low profile 90 degree banjo -6 AN fitting to make it work, two of these (https://www.ebay.com/itm/6AN-x-1-4NPSM-transmission-oil-cooler-90-degree-Banjo-fitting-one-Made-in-USA/233058994587?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)

Sweet_Performance custom makes them and sales them on Ebay. I highly recommend installing these before the engine and exhaust is installed. I pointed the -6 AN connections to the back of the truck. Its hard to see in the photo, but here they are installed.

 

The heat sink cooler was mounted on the passenger side frame rail. 1/4"-20 threads were tapped and socket head screws/lock washers used to secure.


The heat sink cooler has 1/4" NPT threads for the input and output. I used two ICT billet straight 1/4" NPT to -6 AN fittings to allow -6 AN lines to be attached to the cooler (

$9 ICT Billet Straight -6 Flare Male to 1/4"NPT Pipe Adapter Fitting 6 AN Bare Aluminum - National Pipe Thread Designed & Manufactured in the USA AN816-06-04A

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRNJKFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Permatex high temp thread sealant was used on the pipe threads.


Two 4' long pre-made -6 AN lines were run from the banjo fittings to the cooler, Russell Performance part # 658530: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-658530

 

Before installing the engine for the last time, I dropped the oil pan/windage tray and took a look at the crankshaft to make sure the engine was a 5.3 L and not a 4.8 L (they share the same block). If the stamp on the crankshaft is 12552216, it is a 5.3 L. Here is the pic that verifies I have a 5.3 L:



A 4.8 L would be stamped 12553482. I installed a new o-ring on the Corvette oil pump pick-up tube (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12557752) and also installed a girdle for a better seal to the pump (https://www.ebay.com/itm/LS-Oil-Pum...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)



The stock pick-up tube only uses one bolt on the pump, the girdle above allows two bolts on either side of the tube to be used.

The Corvette windage tray had some damage, I did a bit of hammer massaging to bring it back to shape. The corvette oil pump pick-up tube can be seen in the background.



I also installed a cheap starter at this time, DB Electrical SDR0270 (

$74 DB Electrical 410-12257 Starter Compatible With/Replacement For Rainier 2004-2007, Cadillac Escalade 2003-2005, Avalanche 2007-2008, Avalanche 1500 2003-2006 8000016, 8000045, 6494N

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y85V4G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)



I re-used the truck oil pan dipstick, can also be seen in the image above.

 

Around this time I also sent the truck PCM out for anti-theft (VATS) removal and re-programming for my configuration. I had the re-programming performed by lt1swap: http://lt1swap.com/programming.htm

This is what I told him for my configuration:

"I have sent you a PCM from a 2003 Silverado 5.3 L Vortec truck engine. PCM and engine came from same truck. I’m planning to use the stock truck intake and stock injectors. 8 digit injector number is 25317628.

This will be an engine swap, I will be putting the 5.3 L engine into a 1998 Toyota Tacoma. I’m going with 2WD only.

Fuel rail on the truck intake has a vacuum referenced fuel pressure regulator.

Throttle is electronic. (DBW - Drive By Wire).

Transmission is a 2000 Yukon 4l60e converted to 2WD, VSS is on the 2WD output shaft housing.

Tacoma rear axle gear ratio is 4:10 and current tire size is 31”.

I need to keep emissions. I don’t believe the 2003 silverados came with EGR or AIR injection. I will be keeping the EVAP system and rear oxygen sensors.

I will keep the mass air flow sensors and plan to use the stock 5.3 truck 5 wire sensor to plug right into the harness.

Enable Cooling Fan Controls. My current plan is to use the stock Tacoma radiator and add electric fans."

 

I had a custom single piece steel drive shaft made by Tom Wood's: https://4xshaft.com/

I kept the stock Tacoma rear end, I'm interested to see how much it can take. I don't think it will have problems with the stock 5.3L. We will see if it will "Kersplode!"

Here are the specifications given to Tom Wood for the custom drive shaft:

4L60E Transmission Side
Female reverse slip yoke
G =27 splines
H = 1.172" spline diameter
I = 1.5" seal surface diameter

Tacoma Rear Differential Side
T3 flange
A = 1.812" Pilot diameter
B = 3.35" Bolt circle diameter
C = 2.375" Chord length
10 mm thru holes
https://4xshaft.com/blogs/other-veh...tacoma-and-land-cruiser-4wd-only-drive-shafts

1310 U-Joints non-greaseable
Length from 4L60E tail housing to Tacoma rear differential flanged yoke = 71.75"
Tube diameter = 3.5"

Complete Measurement Guide: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0266/9871/1137/files/measuring_guide_without_logo_photos.pdf?1908

I was told due to the long length of the shaft, it could not be balanced with the slip yoke attached and there would be a chance of vibrations at high speed once installed on the truck.

Total cost for the custom drive shaft was $460.

 

You'll have this truck running in no time! Great progress and thanks again for sharing!

 

Thanks six5creed!

I kept the Tacoma steering rack and will also be keeping the Chevy truck power steering pump that came with the engine, so I needed to come up with a way to connect the two systems.

The first step was to lower the power steering pump pressure. The Chevy pump outputs about 1500 psi (https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversi...puts-gto-f-body-corvette-cts-v-truck-etc.html).

I believe the Tacoma steering rack accepts somewhere around 1000 psi (https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/54708-power-steering-how-much-p-s-i.html)

I reduced the pressure by installing a Borgeson 899001 pressure reducing kit (

$23 Borgeson 899001 Pressure Reducing Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L1FBFU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

Here are the installation instructions from the manufacturer: https://borgeson.com/instructions/899001.pdf

I installed three shims to get to 1000 psi.

Back of power steering pump with flow valve removed, spring still inside.


Flow valve out


Removing 7/16" bolt with valve in clamp, one shim was already installed.


I removed the single shim and installed three shims from the kit, added beneath the head of 7/16" bolt.

 

For the power steering high pressure line, I chopped up a junkyard Suburban line and welded it to the stock Tacoma line:


I re-used the stock Tacoma low pressure line, cutting it shorter and connecting it to the Chevy truck power steering pump input hose with clamps.





I probably could have easily had a custom crimped hose made, like Tom's Turbo Garage did:

https://youtu.be/Isi-El1bSU8?t=414

 

The engine also had a few exhaust manifold bolts that broke and stayed in the aluminum heads.

I tried welding on a nut but it broke off before backing the bolt out.


Tried a weld booger and pliers.


Long angle iron.



Shortened angle iron did the trick

 

Never would've thought of that. Nice job.