Turbo BS Thread

Pesky A/C lines getting in the way. I still need to make my new lines. Ugh.

 

The regulator said the wg was sitting at ~10 but today the boost gauge settled between 8-9 it looked like... So more than it was either way and more is better...

 

8-9 should be around 400 whp.

 

If I could get some stuff working right... I'd really be surprised if I was putting down much over 300 whp... I mean I dunno I havent rode in many 400 whp cars so I may not kniw what I'm talking about

 

It is a 35r, but I put the biggest exhaust housing on since the Sc would take care of any lag.

I pulled the Sc for a couple reasons. I have a Iat sensor I'd like to install in #6 runner to see outlet temps. Also the nose cone is leaking even tho it's a new Trd cone, so I have the viton upgrade from Rolling Performance. Also I wondered how much of a restriction the Sc rotors are to both flow and parasitic drag.

 

What other power robbing issues do you have?

 

Auto box, 33's, 4.10 gears.

 

Haha whoops, thought that was directed at me

 

Stock auto with no shift kit, 33 mts, fuel trim gremlins also I'm still using stock wide bands so I only know I'm at least 12.1:1 I could be 8:1 who knows? Also since I'm e85 there is probably some timing left on the table in not taking advantage of but thats the least of my worries...

 

Pretty quick for 33 MT tires

 

Changed the Gate spring from .4 bar to .7bar, that woke it up a bit. Now to smooth out the tune.

 

Nice!

Just remember. Wastegates slowly creep open until at max pressure. That starting point for creeping open, is raised as spring pressure is increased.

 

I know it. Could use a Ebc to hold it closed too, but this is cheaper.

 

EBC are too much fun.

 

So i was thinking of going to 315/75r16 now that pickup can get out of its own way. What yall think

 

Not sure which brand you have, but I had great performance from the Greddy one. Easy to operate and setup.

 

sure. But you'll want to regear either way. More power doesn't mean you can magically turn the tires better.

My dad learned this the hard way by boosting his first with 34s. After we regeared it, DAYYYUUUMMM.

Also I regeared first with 35s and it was awesome. Then added a blower and fuck it's great.

 

I dropped my fuel tank and tried to find my little leak... I'm hoping the O-ring where the sending unit screws in was just not seated right and we got everyrhing back together right but my fuel trims are still ~10% off between each bank so who knows... Also redid my oil drain for the record 3/8" oil drain will result in a lot of burn oil caked in the exhaust... Like ALOT

 

Let's talk tuning theory a moment, specifically pumping losses.

Let's say I have a tune and at any given rpm (let's say 2k rpm @ a given speed) my MAP sensor gives a vacuum reading. If VVTI changes are made to the tune and the MAP sensor given a lower or higher vacuum reading (all conditions are the same as before ie 2k rpm @ a given speed), what does that mean?

My understanding is the less vacuum the better, less pumping loss. Please correct and elaborate.

 

I dont have one currently. If I were to get one I would probably just switch to the Fic8 which has a Ebc built it. Also it plugs into the Fic6 harness so no rewiring needed.

In the past I've used the Avc-r and Power Fc.

Gonna put another spring in soon and bump it up to .8 bar.