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Power steering leak

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by REDeye jedi, Feb 25, 2020.

  1. Feb 25, 2020 at 7:26 PM
    #1
    REDeye jedi

    REDeye jedi [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I believe i have found the leak but not sure what the part is called. Its a part that goes after the return line leaves the resevoir. I have a picture from the bottom and pretty sure this ring isnt supposed to be cracked like this. Anyone know a part number. I can find a diagram for my truck.

    20200225_190952.jpg
     
  2. Feb 25, 2020 at 7:29 PM
    #2
    REDeye jedi

    REDeye jedi [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It would be this area on the diagram.
    power steering.jpg
     
  3. Feb 25, 2020 at 7:39 PM
    #3
    gotoman1969

    gotoman1969 Well-Known Member

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    Follow that up to where the hose attaches to that hard line. That looks like the rubber in the bracket that protects the hardline.
     
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  4. Feb 26, 2020 at 1:34 AM
    #4
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    That cracked part is rubber just protecting the Hard line.

    At least it is the return line pressure side would be a big mess all the fluid on the engine and ground .

    I would look at the joint where the Rubber line meets the steel.

    Possible a pin hole rubbed someplace.

    Palm Springs unless the Truck has lived in a Winter Chemical State you can rule out the line rusting.
     
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  5. Feb 26, 2020 at 12:56 PM
    #5
    REDeye jedi

    REDeye jedi [OP] Well-Known Member

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    20200226_124122.jpg 20200226_124122.jpg 20200226_124019.jpg
     
  6. Feb 26, 2020 at 12:58 PM
    #6
    REDeye jedi

    REDeye jedi [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I took the skid plates off and they are filthy. The whole underside is covered in what looks like atf fluid. The return line seems to have been wet from over spray. Its really difficult to tell where but it looks like maybe the pump is leaking
     
  7. Feb 26, 2020 at 1:02 PM
    #7
    REDeye jedi

    REDeye jedi [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yah. Its been in san diego and palm springs its whole life. And no rust on the frame or underneath at all. One good thing about living in the desert.
     
  8. Feb 26, 2020 at 1:30 PM
    #8
    gotoman1969

    gotoman1969 Well-Known Member

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    Clean all that off with some brake cleaner then run it and watch for the leak.
     
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  9. Feb 26, 2020 at 2:15 PM
    #9
    REDeye jedi

    REDeye jedi [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So i did that. Cleaned everything the best i could. Ran truck for 30 minutes and nothing. Im going to let it sit and check on it in 10 minute intervals
     
  10. Feb 26, 2020 at 3:38 PM
    #10
    Ritchie

    Ritchie Well-Known Member

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    Odd... is there fluid remaining in the pump?
    For years I dealt with too many issues with the OEM steering garb and went SAC.
    No longer issues with steering.

    Good luck.
     
  11. Feb 26, 2020 at 3:49 PM
    #11
    REDeye jedi

    REDeye jedi [OP] Well-Known Member

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    yah, still fluid in the pump. I have to replace it about once a day. If I dont move my truck for 24 hrs. There will be a small puddle, about square foot big on the ground.
     
  12. Feb 26, 2020 at 3:56 PM
    #12
    Tacoscar-the-grouch

    Tacoscar-the-grouch Well-Known Member

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    FYI that rubber grommet in your first photo is supposed to be cracked like that. It allows you to install or remove it from the hard line if you need to change it.

    I just chased down a leak in my PS system, though I had the opposite problem as you. Air was getting into the system rather than fluid getting out. I replaced the return line from the rack to the reservoir and problem solved.

    Reasoning goes like this: fluid leaks are most likely on the pressure line. Because this side of the system is under pressure, fluid leaks out, but air does not usually get in.

    Air leaks (you'll know if you have an air leak because your fluid will be frothing, and the pump will make terrible noises as air goes through the vanes) are most likely on the return side, as this side is under some vacuum, or at least relatively low pressure, returning the fluid to the reservoir.

    Could also be a leak at the O-ring on the bottom of your reservoir where it attaches to the pump casting.

    FYI if you do replace those hard lines there are slight differences between the manual and automatic transmission versions, and probably drastic differences in the 4cyl vs. 6cyl versions, in the way that the hard lines are routed. Make sure you get the correct part. I got a gates brand from rockauto. Figured it's just a tube, so didn't feel like shelling out for OEM.
     
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  13. Feb 26, 2020 at 3:59 PM
    #13
    Tacoscar-the-grouch

    Tacoscar-the-grouch Well-Known Member

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    It is also possible that the seal on the pump casting or around the pump shaft are leaking. Hard to say until you get some more fluid to show.
     
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  14. Feb 26, 2020 at 4:03 PM
    #14
    REDeye jedi

    REDeye jedi [OP] Well-Known Member

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    well, all of this started after a power steering flush. I did do everything correctly and have since have gone back and quadruple checked everything. I thought at first that it might be the oring where the reservoir seats to the pump because at first, I didn't use an OEM o-ring. I used an o-ring from a variety pack at Autozone. I thought that for sure was the problem so I went and bought an OEM for like $5 at my local yota dealer. I changed that Monday and still have the leak. So I took my skid plates off this morning and are now here. Thanks for that bit of knowledge on what to look out for
     
  15. Feb 26, 2020 at 4:10 PM
    #15
    Tacoscar-the-grouch

    Tacoscar-the-grouch Well-Known Member

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    Hmm. My air leak started after a flush as well. Did you do the method of disconnect return line and run fluid through the system? That's what I did.

    My thought was that I kinked the 20 year old rubber and opened a small hole somewhere doing this. Could be that your return hose has a hole up near the reservoir. Re-reading your comment about the fluid leaking overnight, this would fit. So, my suggestion would be to get a $10 piece of hose and replace that last bit of return line to the reservoir. Cheap and easy. If it fixes your leak great.

    However, looking at your pics, seems that the return line is pretty clean. Did you put new copper washers on the pressure line? One on each side of the banjo fitting?
     
  16. Feb 26, 2020 at 5:36 PM
    #16
    REDeye jedi

    REDeye jedi [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No. I never removed the pressure lines. I disconected the return and put the return hose into a drain bucket while plygging up the port to the resevoir. I then turned the car on and fed the reservoir atf while it was pumping out old until it was clean.
     
  17. Feb 26, 2020 at 5:43 PM
    #17
    REDeye jedi

    REDeye jedi [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I cleaned the undercarriage pretty good and the areas that had fluid on them. Hoses, pump, etc. Still no dripping. So ill keep it parked overnight. See what i find in the morning. It will be much easier now that the skid plates are off and i cleaned up the undercarriage. But i do now see i need to do a valve cover gasket replacement. Oh well
     
  18. Feb 26, 2020 at 5:48 PM
    #18
    Tacoscar-the-grouch

    Tacoscar-the-grouch Well-Known Member

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    That's what I did too. Except I manually moved fluid by turning the wheels with the engine off.

    This is your best bet. Good luck and let us know what you find.
     
  19. Feb 26, 2020 at 6:12 PM
    #19
    gotoman1969

    gotoman1969 Well-Known Member

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    Keep us posted
     
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  20. Feb 28, 2020 at 10:09 PM
    #20
    REDeye jedi

    REDeye jedi [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Im very reluctant to say it. Because its too good to be true. But the leak is gone. It must have been o ring i was talking about and that much atf fluid was trapped in the skid plate. I mean. I put in the new oring and 3 days later there was still a puddle. But since i took them off. Cleaned the areas and underneath, frame etc. And now 2 days since last post. Ive drove it. Let it sit. No leak. Hallelujah
     

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