Show off your aux fuse panels.

Overland Equipped now makes an all-in-one kit for the aux fuse panel, but unfortunately there can be a conflict with the bracket and the brake wire as seen over here.

My quick fix is a rubber hose around the brake wire with a zip tie for good measure:

 

Ah, the answer is No, not in that configuration. Charge controller accepts two possible input sources - solar and charge from engine up front and produces a controlled charge to the one battery. I dont know enough about your genesis system to figure out if it could be done differently.

 

Kinda pricey @ $200, for what it is.

 

As far as I can tell it's just a voltage sensor and a solenoid. When both the cranking battery and aux battery are >=13.2 volts it connects them in parallel and any non-factory acccessories hooked to the system drain from both batteries. Once the cranking battery hits 12.7 volts the solenoid disconnects them and any accessories drain from the aux battery only. Handy in that it keeps you from draining your cranking battery too low to start the vehicle with accessories, though if you drain it down by leaving your headlights on or something you can force the solenoid open with a switch and effectively jump yourself.

Looking at the Renogy DCC50s you linked, sounds like it *would* charge my front AUX battery from solar in my application, but only when the rear house battery was full, and due to the genesis system it would be iffy getting to the cranking battery. I could rip out the existing system and move one battery to the back making it a bank of two, but that makes some of my wiring more complicated and it would make it more complex to jump myself from the aux battery.

That brings me back around to the original plan of just hooking up the front and rear AUX batteries in parallel and connecting an MPPT solar controller to the rear battery, I'm just not sure how to calculate the number of amps that would be flowing through the connection between the two AUX batteries. I don't know how feasible this is, I haven't found any examples of batteries connected in parallel and not colocated in a battery bank.

 

So what I understand I you want the front aux battery and rear house battery both connected to your loads. The connecting wire gauge should be sized to carry all of the load. Add up either the combined wattage or amperage of all your loads, and let us know.

 

Hey guys here is my current fuse box and relay holder I made. The nice thing about this specific setup is every single wire has it's own 1/4 inch thick gasket and the top lid has a gasket as well. I personally couldnt find anything I really loved aftermarket and having 6 relays all in one place associated to it's own fuse gives me a wide variety of accessories I can run. The next thing I wanted to make sure of during this build was that everything was fairly simple plug and play when i needed to add anything else. So the distribution blocks are all independent and all I need to do is run the power wire from the accessory and ground that accessory to any solid metal near it. It's all 10awg inside the box wich is way overkill but I didnt want to have any problems with resistance from thinner wire. Also every connection internally is soldered and sealed for double protection against any weather. This build is way overkill but it works great for me!
All I have to do is make a bon conductive plate for the bottom for mounting it so the wires never have a chance to get rubbed against.

 

Is that the online led store one? Going to redo mine but debating between open on the bottom (like yours) or a fully enclosed diy one in a project box.

$22 True Mods 12V DC Auto Waterproof Fuse 5-Pin Relay Box Block [6 Bosch Style Relay Holder] [6 ATC/ATO Fusible Holder] Universal Relay Block Box for Automotive Vehicles Cars Marine Boat Light Equipment

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MR64XK1/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_3?smid=A1EQP448COWZL4&psc=1

 

yeah its the open bottom online led store one. I was really suprised, the quality is top notch and super awesome to wire. I think I'm gonna build a bottom for it as well to make it easier to mount and to protect the wires some more. I may even built a second one with that fully enclosed box because its currently in my cart I just don't know if I can squeeze 10awg wire in it.

 

Based off rough estimates, I was debating using the lid or bottom from the one below. Was going to buy the relay/fuse box first so I could measure the wire depth and bottom opening. Possibly putting an in and out cable (pushing out a cable gland) with an eight pin connector. Then you could remove the whole thing just by unclipping the in, out, pos and neg. vs all the individual inputs.

$9 PINFOX Waterproof Plastic Project Box ABS IP65 Electronic Junction Box Enclosure 6.2 x 3.54 x 2.3" 158 x 90 x 60 mm (Black)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07TS6RY85/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_4?smid=AKX4PUL0YEZW2&psc=1

 

Nothing fancy, but it feels great to do it the right way after running a cheaper/sketchier setup in my last vehicle. For anyone wondering the Paranoid Fabrications fuse tray easily fit in my 2020 TRD Sport although I bought it from another TW member so I'm not sure if the dimensions for the current revision being sold are the same.

 

What is everyone using to replace the factory battery terminals? An Amazon link would be awesome.

Thanks

 

I'm considering new terminals too...

SDHQ makes a nice one https://sdhqoffroad.com/collections...t-hd-billet-main-battery-terminal-upgrade-kit

The GP Audio can be cut down ass seen here:

$70 GP SAE 6 SPOT BATTERY TERMINALS HEAVY DUTY

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076C46DP...olid=1IVQU6F5VAZWZ&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Or:

$19 Xscorpion DBT024RP Platinum Digital Battery Terminal with Screw Terminals for any AWG Wire

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RRU726/
https://www.amazon.com/Military-Spe...X0DER&qid=1582837138&s=merchant-items&sr=1-38

 

Haven’t done the positive yet but will do a multiple input like above. For ground I got a quick disconnect.

Universal Battery Quick Disconnect Switch Top Mount Knob Cut Off Master Kill Terminal Adapter DC 12V 24V 15 16 17mm Diameter with Heatproof PVC Cover for Auto Motor Car Vehicle Truck Boat by HitCar

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072JGPP4L?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

 

THIS! looking for something kinda fun and of course functional as well. sex up the battery compartment

 

I like the look of these.

$13 XScorpion Silver Finish Ring Terminal Connection Style Battery Terminal

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058RN2AA/?coliid=I79D2AYUCF1IO&colid=2VF3WCXRRGOW6&psc=1

 

this link just led me to like my Amazon list lol. were u trying to link to a product ?

EDIT: NOW it's workin. sorry bout that looks good. are u using those @bagleboy ?

 

@bagleboy I saw a pic where they were using that one u linked for the negative and the positive another xscorpion one with the digital voltmeter. I may go that route.. lemme see if I can find it. oh yeahhhh there we go. what do u think?

 

a few more ideas i've been lookin at. Something about that clear crystal acrylic cover makes it look kinda badass I think.

 

So what if I’m indecisive...

Before


Coming soon....

 

I put a voltmeter in the cab where it’s only on with ignition. Meter on the battery doesn’t get me hot. Plus it looks pretty clunky whereas the exscorpion looks sexy as just a 3-ring terminal. I’ll have to look at cable routing though to decide whether it or the mil spec would be more convenient. I’d actually prefer something with a boot on it over a sexy look.