TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Just seems too close to Torspd's numbers which I didn't think we would even be in the same ballpark without whistlin wirly boys

 

Well I did some math on my own junker not too long ago based on the MAF readings and using old school CFM calculations and from what I remember I was getting 422.X at the crank. If you upped your displacement AND threw in cams as well, 100HP is actually a very realistic gain. Cams alone change the airflow dynamics of the engine, if you up the displacement you are only adding to that massive new surge of air being induced into the engine.

 

Anybody running these with a SNOW PERFORMANCE set up?

https://www.snowperformance.net/sta...eel-braided-line-4an-fittings-sno-201-brd.asp

 

Ive been running their push-to-connect fittings on my stage 3 setup for a while now and havent had any issues. The braided stuff is nice, but im not sure its worth the extra cost. I wrapped mine in convoluted tubing and it blends in with the engine bay great now. I also like how you can custom size everything with the nylon line so you arent limited to where you can mount things. Imo, you'd be better off spending that money saved on a better controller and going with the nylon line

 

Given the data in the 1.5.5 version log, I did a little spreadsheet work and corrected your raw MAF value against the error in the commanded lambda and your wideband. This should account for the error in the MAF calibration curve. Then used the (insert shitstorm here) "MAF-HP conversion" to create a HP plot vs RPM. Then used the calculated HP value to derive torque. Plotted both.. and this is what you'd theoretically make at the wheel if all you believe in Sasquatch, Aliens, and Skinwalkers.

 

Same, The Right Stuff is insanely good stuff. If you don't have to take that part off again down the road.

 

That engine bay sure looks pretty.

 

Kelford springs are going in.

 

it SHOULD be a slam dunk. this bracket lift does complicate things too.

 

by spraying a mixture of water and alcohol it cools things down enough that a hotter, or stock plug to work great. im running 24's now but plan on putting 22's back in.

 

i have a stage 3 controller with essentially that. great setup.

 

i had issues with fittings weeping when curved a bit much. nothing wrong with nylon though. just remember if you switch to braided the pump needs changing as well.

 

Thanks buddy! It's overdue for a good cleaning right now.. tough to keep things looking nice since i live on a dirt road. Might just have to do that this weekend

 

Same pump, just different fittings right? Or does the one for braided lines offer a bump up in pressure?

 

the pumps are mechanically the same. the way the fittings are done you get either or, not both. i didnt want to take mine apart to see why. i do have a spare pump now. maybe i should. they may have two pressure ratings. i think mines a 300.

 

i think mine is 300psi as well. Having a backup is always a good idea or you could always do like @Athlaos and rig up duals

 

i will have dual nozzles soon. 1 pump. thought about using my other pump to just spray a cold distilled water on the heat exchanger. cool things down in the summer.

 

Engineers use the rationale of 'extra layers of safety' as an excuse to overdo things

 

I haven't seen the "extra layers of safety" rationale since the 90s and very early 2000s vehicles. You know, back when they used to make good cars.

 

Are the SNOW PERFORMANCE kits Universal now for Toyotas? I thought I had seen them before made specific.