Water Bypass Pipe No.1

Yes there is a specific orientation. The gasket has a “bulge” and you’ll put that face in the pipe.

 

Yup, get to it!

 

^
JB weld or epoxy might help in the interim, if you can't get to it right away. Clean it off as good as you can and put on some layers for buildup and support at the site of the crack. Also to temporarily reduce the leakage, you can relieve the cooling system pressure by unscrewing the radiator cap just enough to break the seal -- there are tabs on the cap to keep it on the neck after the seal is broken. It's more likely to boil over without pressure, but this would be better than losing all of the coolant if that pipe actually breaks. Again these are just crutches to hold you over until a proper repair is done.

 

I'm reading your post and getting a woodie . Any details on how U did it ? I'm really excited !

 

You do not have to remove the manifold.
I repeat, you do not have to remove the manifold.
You do need an assistant with tiny hands to help take off the bolts that hold the bypass line to the thermostat housing and you will need the tiny hands again to thread the bolts to connect the new bypass. You will need someone to hold the manifold while you wiggle the old bypass line out and the new bypass line in.

https://youtu.be/wHyTfxGKnDs

This guy does a great job of breaking it down. He misses a hose on the back of the air resonator box and I disconnected a couple extra electrical connections near the oil dipstick to make more room to work. The plastic bypass line nipple broke off just like in the video so you might have to monkey with that to clean it out.

 

Thanks for the post & links.

 

Thanks for this post. The time has come for me on a 2009 with 200k miles. thinking of replacing the thermostat while i'm at it. any suggestion on what else to replace while i'm at it? TIA.

 

Might be a good time to rebuild the starter contacts while you are under there, if it is the original unit.

 

Got any links on replacing the starter contacts ? Thanks 4 any reply.

 

I can't give you part numbers but there is lots of DIY info out there. Here are a few:

Thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-rebuild-the-tacoma-starter-motor.200964/

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlueAcMPCCc (starter work begins at 13:35)
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WV1t5-wcoOI (starter work begins at 16:30)

 

Thanks - quick reply - I'll check them out.

 

You are welcome. The thing is, at 200,000 miles the starter might last another 5 years or longer. Or it might fail in two days. At this age I figure it's good preventive maintenance to replace the contacts and plunger, those are the major wear parts. My 2006 has 160,000 miles but yours is far beyond that. I am curious if yours has the original starter, untouched... it wouldn't be too surprising. I previously thought that the drive gear (bendix) on the starter was also a wear part but have learned that it's not -- they are made of a softer metal than the flywheel but still they last nearly forever.

 

I just replaced the thermostat and put new gaskets for all the replacement parts.

 

Dont be afraid to do this the right way by removing the i take manifold. I think it took two hours being really careful because reading here got me all pranoid. There isnt even that much to take off. I also removed the fuel lines they just snap on and off. Barely any fuel comes out. Have a rag ready. It doesnt matter if your pipe has a bracket or not, either will fit and the bracket does not need to be cut off. Yes do change the intake gasket while your in there. Mine looked good ay 150k miles but si ce youve just disturbed its happiness jusg replace it. Its an easy job guys dont sweat.

 

Does anyone have the part number for the vacuum hose that goes on the back of the intake manifold that has two different sized ends? It's the one that's very difficult to install once the intake manifold is in place

 

Yes, that's the little shit. Thanks a bunch, had trouble tracking that one down

 

Changed bypass with new metal one and it still leaking new metal gasket also. Im at a loss what to do next do i need to put a torque on it?

 

You should probably make sure its torqued to whatever its spec'ed for, it has to collapse that gasket some I believe to work. Unless you still had some gunk on the block when you put the new one on

 

Thanks for the reply gonna take it off again this weekend to see whats going on. But i have to use it this week just gonna have to check on water level everyday hopefully it want mess nothing up.