1st gen 105 amp bolt in alternator.

Any chance this would fit on a 2.4L? I think my alt has a bad bearing, and it would be nice to upgrade for no additional cost.

 

Bamafan, Thanks for the update, and I appreciate you listing the size drill bit to use (5/16"). Can you tell a difference when turning your headlights or putting a load on this alternator compared to the 80 amp?
I plan on swapping mine the next time I change the oil/filter since I'll have the bottom skid plates removed and will make accessing the alternator much easier.

 

Jammer,
Honestly I haven't even checked it with all of the lights on. In addition to the stock lights, I have an LED bar on the front bumper, ditch lights and 2 LED pods mounted under the rear bumper plus lights in the bed and shell. I'll check it tonight and see what the voltage looks like with everything turned on and let you know. It seems like from memory that with the 80A alt. that my reading was down about 11.3 or 11.5V's.

I really wasn't changing the alt. to gain anything but i was basically chasing a noise the truck was making and thought it was the bearing in the old alt. going bad.

 

Thank you Bamafan.

 

Alright, just checked and with the truck at ideal it’s reading 13.5V’s, with everything(stock and accessory lights) it’s reading 12V’s so there is an improvement over the stock alt..

 

That's actually a decent improvement. Noice

 

But was the stock alternator working correctly? Did you remove the rectifier and verify all the diodes were working? It not fair to compare unless you know they are both working 100%.

 

Stock alt. was working fine but I was chasing down a noise that I thought was a bearing going bad in the alt., that was the reason I decided to go ahead and swap it out.

 

I could be wrong but the 3Rz is a "stroked 2Rz" & would like to try this!!

~ Another alternative is the Delco C-130 ?

 

The pulley on my new alternator was a lot larger than the oem pulley. I swapped pulleys and used my original pulley. Smaller pulley equals faster rpm at idle, which will result to a higher output. My idle voltage is 14.4v.

 

My new alternator stays at 14 -14.1.

My old 80 amp alternator was in the
12.5-13 range.

I did run a separate positive cable directly from the battery to the alternator tho

 

I was curious about this also... the toyota says it has a plug type 312 and the suzuki says a plug type 318 ...im guessing their the same just different manufacturers plugs?

It might be your idler pulley. I have been chasing down this same horrible mystery noise for a year now. It's been to a mechanics twice and I've tried tracking it down also. I was starting to think something was loose in the timing belt case.
Nope, just by accident I hit the idler pulley with some lube and it stopped immediately! It's a bad pulley... I'm replacing mine asap.

 

Ive already changed the idler pulley along with the fan pulley bracket as well as the alt., none of this helped with the noise. It so damn intermittent its hard to track down, I probably put 200 miles on it this weekend and it didn't make a sound but I could go home right now, start it up and it might start making it again, I just decided to say screw it and quite worrying about it.

 

Keep a 5.00 automotive stethoscope and a truck for when it makes a noise and go track it down

 

Was about to say, shits almost double in Denver than it is here in south MS.I've got the stethoscope but the noise is so come & go its hard to track, the attached video was take a couple of months ago at its worst.

https://youtu.be/mUFlBd25UYc

 

Power steering pump???

 

You might have already tried this but... take a lubricant, somthing engine/belt friendly and just go through the pulleys one at a time squirting each one. The hardest part would just be catching it making the noise at a time when you were able to do this.

My 4 runner used to make that same chirp after a good mud session. I never did track it down cause it was so hit and miss lol.

Best of luck!

 

I had an intermittent noise a few months ago. I pulled the belts off and ran them all one at a time. Ended up being the A/C idler pulley.

 

When going up in amp output do you need to change the 80a ALT fuse too? Or leave it 80a?

 

Did anyone ever find out if this works on the 2RZ or 3RZ motors too??