Official Crawlbox BS thread!

Thought about doing that, but there is a transmission mount and cross member in the way that prevented me from backing that bolt all the way out to put washers there. I thought about removing the cross member and mount, but I had just filled the crawl box and the bolts for the trans mount go through and through into the bellousing, which fills with oil on the manual when you fill the crawl box.

Trust me i stressed out about this for quite awhile and thought about draining and dropping the whole thing to fix it, drill everything out and do it right. But it was 2am, I was tired, and I was leaving for Moab in 24 hours. After @6 gearT444E told me his bottom two bolts were missing for 2 years and someone else told me they were missing two, I said fuck it.

I have the proper pitch and length bolt to go in there next time it is empty and will drill out the threads next time I drop the cases.

 

No leaks on my tg dual cases.

 

Is that where I've seen guys using a stud instead of the bolt? Can't you go to the harware store and get a shorter bolt?.. its crazy when you pay that much money things are not worked out.. makes me reconsider buying a dual case!

 

When you’re doing a mod as custom as something like this you have to expect some bumps in the road. Comes with the territory.

 

No cupholders were harmed in the making of this mod.





My torch is at my house back in Texas. I'll bend the xfer case sticks straight and tack on an extension for the crawl box to sit level.

I RTV'd the piss out of everything and left the UV lights on it all day. 2qts in and no leaks so far

 

Another triple stick in a 2nd gen.
Welcome to the club, by my count you are member #3.

 

I guess... you would think its well planned out if executed right, its nice to know you can depend on your rig when youre out 5- 10 hrs from anything or anybody to get help. Back in the day I had a 85 pickup with a MC dual case and stuff like this was unheard of

 

Awesome

Here's the first crawl from earlier

https://youtu.be/r8k0JYnl58U

My FJ case doesn't do 2Low though. It won't go into low unless it's in 4wd. What's up with that?

 

Congratulations man. That's a good feeling when it all works.

When you has the tcase open to modify the rail, did you remove the pill between the rails?

Please say yes...

 

I'm gonna guess no.

 

But of course

 

Thanks dude

It was a fun project and so far my favorite. My back hurts, my knees hurt, my hands are good and sore, and my ribs are fucking killing me: I'm freaking stoked about this one.

Grins, cheers, and beers all around on that first compound low

 

I've never been more glad to be wrong. Did you grind down the shift rails enough to allow them to clear each other? Did you bench test the case and did 2lo work?

 

I did grind them, on the x and the y axis. They moved past each other smoothly. It's been a flurry trying to get this done on a schedule, I honestly can't remember if I bench tested 2Low. I know I tested it and the crawl box while they were mated and sitting on the floor but it's very possible I overlooked function testing 2Low.

 

With the interlock pin gone the only thing preventing 2lo would be interference either in the linkage or in the shift rails. I hope it's the linkage. I've got a 3rd gen 4runner with a J-shift and am not totally familiar with the FJ case but I believe they are basically the same. I had to grind down more of the shift rails then I thought I would to allow them to clear.

 

I have been running dual cases since 2008 and they all seem to leak. My lefty just sprang a random leak, it's something you just accept.

 

X2. I think the first time I ground it down, i got the rails to clear each other, but shifter tab or whatever it's called was still catching on the nub that wasnt ground down enough.

 

And I hope we are both wrong ...again. but i am trying to think of ways to diagnose without pulling it all.

 

You need to make sure you are using the right length bolt for that, I blew out the inside of my low range housing being a dumbass using a bolt too long. I pieced it back together again using "the right stuff" and it held up until I built a new box and lefty a few years later.

How are you sealing the bolts? I always go 360* around the hole with the sealant then splooge a bunch on the bolt before I thread it in and I have been lucky with no real leaks around the bolts.

Get that red crap out of there and get some right stuff.

 

The linkages seem to have full range of motion. It's tripping the sensors for 2/4wd and 4Hi/4Lo on the dash so I can only assume they are traveling the proper distance inside the t-case. I'll have to set aside some time to pull it all down and get in there and have a better look eventually. For the time being, I should be alright with the 4.7. Plus the compound low works fine. I'll make sure 4WD works tomorrow after I get the FJ tube installed. If it doesn't then I know I seriously fucked something up in the t-case somehow.

When I put the first bolt in there and it bottomed out, I pulled it and put in the shortest bolt that came with the kit. I stacked washers and left it the way it was in the pic. When it started leaking, I pulled it and filled it with RTV. Plenty of guys run without BOTH bottom bolts, I think I'll be fine with 1. I'll get a cross-member support put together for the crawl box soon and I think that'll be pretty solid.

"The Right Stuff" is made by Permatex, the red crap I used is an aviation-grade high temp oil and fuel resistant Permatex RTV sealant, very much the same thing. If not better. I figure if it's approved by Airbus, Boeing, McDonnell Douglas, and Lockheed Martin it's good enough for a Toyota.