HP Tuners for 2005-2015

Correct. It's not a "Add 2 degrees of timing here" and it's done type of deal.

Every truck (and fuel) is a little different, so there's not a one size fits all tune adjustment for the thermostat (or cam gears for that matter).

 

Curious why you guys are using lower T-stats.
Every table in the ECU is setup to work best when coolant temp is OEM spec.

Think of it this way. For every table you do have related to coolant, there are probably 5+ more tables, thresholds, and values you don't have related to coolant that expect the temp to be within certain ranges.

 

that was always my thought..... for a race application maybe.... but in a daily driven setup where you want to prevent sludge build up... probably not optimal.

 

none of the stock calibration is setup for a lower T-stat.
I'm pretty sure some of the torque converter and transmission settings require certain engine temps

The lower the engine temp is from spec the less efficient it is running.

Changing the base temp of the engine also alters all mechanical components, pistons, ring expansion, etc.

yall do some weird and unnecessary stuff imo. If you think you're gaining power from a lower t-stat, put it on the dyno and prove it otherwise it's rubbish (in my opinion).

 

Yup. at the very least torque converter lockup will never occur unless you are above 140* ETC.

 

I don't want to want to throw a wrench in here...But you do know that seeing boost increase doesn't mean more power right?
When you start making more power you see boost drop, not increase.

read this, might be helpful
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2017...e-engine-boost-doesnt-always-mean-more-power/

 

thought process had nothing to do with power. Trying to lean forward to hot summers on stagnant trails for me.

 

The posts after that post talk about how psi = x amount of added power.
If all things remain the same and you're tuning a supercharger and you're seeing boost increase, power is going down.

 

I understand. Wish we had volumetric efficiency gauges.

 

This is where a dyno helps, and basic understanding of engine tuning.
You don't need a volumetric efficiency gauge. Only a simple understanding of what boost is, to understand that more psi on a static system means that the engine is reducing it's intake consumption.

Think about it. it's all math. Here is a simple way to think about it.
you have a supercharge that can flow "1000" at 6000 RPM
you have an engine that can consume "500" at 6000 rpm.
500 left over in the intake manifold is going to create "x pressure"
now lets say that engine now consumes "700"
there is only "300" left, so less air in the manifold, so there is less pressure
now lets say the engine only consumes "300"
you now have "700" in the intake manifold. Increasing pressure.

What happens if the Engine consumes 1000?
You have no pressure, and are consuming 100% of what the supercharger is making, and you're making a lot of power.

obviously these numbers aren't based in reality, it's just a concept to understand what boost actually is.

Boost is what the engine is NOT getting. If boost drops the engine is getting more

 

Yes but things did not remain the same. You do realize I was talking about installing cam gears, getting retuned and then seeing more boost after, not just getting tuned and gaining more boost though right?

 

That's why I posted an article specifically related to cam gears and boost.

 

Ahh, okay. Just wanted to make sure. I am just working on other things right now so I haven't had a chance to click the link yet.

 

I understand but very few have access to a dyno or pay to measure after every mod. Point taken, just trying to poor man measure increased power or efficiency without a dyno.

 

No worries I understand that. There were years when I was tuning and a dyno was a dream.

I'm just trying to give some general concepts to consider. Not trying to tell you guys what to do or how to tune.
There is lots of good documentation online
https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/forced-induction-explained/


~ just wanted to say lol if you see big boost drops that's not gaining power that's belt slip lol

 

Just so it doesn't get lost in the fast paced shuffle here. Really curious to the light you can shed on this @OVTune and the other tables that exist

 

What ECU ID?
I can disassem the coolant ram and map out every possible place it's called pretty quick,
And I can find the CL/ OL ram flag in 5 mins,


But I have a hunch there is probably 50+ possible scenarios, like sensor failures, etc

 

cal ID 3ywg3200
ecm number 89661-04d40

 

3YWG32

Kk

 

Just to be clear. First I’m glad you brought this up. Cause quite frankly I was shocked no body chimed in. And I agree at a certain point PSI does not mean extra power it’s just more heat build up. So I should have been more specific. My point was most APRx1 with the cam gears were getting close to 30 rwhp but that was with a CAI and just as important a free flowing custom exhaust starting with headers and larger diameter ypipe for extraction. But never had a boost increase from the cam gear swap.

With that said, having a more free flowing exhaust would help the CAI in that the boost would go down 1 or 2 psi yet the MAF would go up and thus create more power.