DRL with SmartTap flasher

It is well known that if you want to run LED turn signals without using resistors, you need a LED flasher. The Diode Dynamics SmartTap flasher does awesome things and works great with LED turn signals. If you want to use it, you have to remove the 3 way flasher harness and install the grey plastic jumper block, which eliminates the DRL. I was dinking around with a schematic drawing app and I came up with this to use the SmartTap flasher and retain the DRL. Note, that if you have the dealer installed tow package with the 4 way flasher harness, you will lose your towing lights, if you remove the 4 way harness and install the grey plastic jumper block. I have not actually built this. I just drew it up. If you burn your truck to the ground, it's not my problem.

 

It occurred to me that 1 of the cool features of the SmartTap flasher won't work with my previous design. Departure lighting. So, I redid the schematic so that the departure lighting will still work.

 

Nothing needs fixing. It’s turning off the DRL when the turn signal is activated.

 

Pulsed OFF?

 

Yes

 

And you're placing these 3 relays, where>?

 

Under the hood.

 

090/2.3II terminals, 3 wires with dual wires...connector for LED Relay...reuse the DRL connector...

 

You lost me on that.

 

With all due respect, your schematic won't work. The factory schematic is confusing because they are showing the DRL schematic, and then showing an incomplete reference to the grey jumper block. With your relays, you are supplying ACC power to the front DRL when the key is on and turn signals are off. When the turn signal is on, you are energizing the relay from the rear turn signal circuit and connecting battery power to the front DRL. ON-ON. There is no off cycle. There are 3 states needed for the DRL. You can't make 3 states happen with a single relay per side.
1. Key on, turn signal off---DRL illuminated
2. Key on, turn signal on(flasher supplying power)---DRL cycle off
3. Key off, flasher supplying power for departure---DRL illuminated

 

It is the same for all years.

You'll be removing these wires from the relay feed. DRL included and not used on both sides. On the connector side you'll be adding 2 wires.

 

All that is missing is the relay I removed and you get YOUR circuit....

 

2011 and older:

 

Nerd fight!

 

Post 16 looks good, but I don’t think post 15 is going to work. I am about 60% sure that the TW member that had issues with a ‘12 had a dealer installed tow package. I think it was a plug and play way to add trailer wiring, and used a completely different flasher than everything else and it included the diodes to combine turn and brake lights for the trailer. I think the way you have it will end up with 2 flashers battling against each other.

 

Not if you remove the wires to the system from the original relay. One for Tow (original), the other to the Front Only n rest of vehicle.

Original Relay will have Hazards (hot), IGN, Turn Select (L&R) and Ground. This will provide Towing features only.
The added LED Relay will handle the rest.
Your added relays will do the DRL & Turn for the front.

 

OK, Sounds logical. I just didn’t know if there was any kind of black magic, alien technology, or magic smoke in there.

 

I was kind of thinking of doing this mod - when my eyes stop bleeding.

 

Just cut n splice then...

 

Just pulling your chain. I have to say, your solution is pretty elegant.