The 5.29 Mega Thread!!

The Tacoma is a 4wd vehicle not an awd vehicle. Most 4wd vehicles have selectable transfer cases WITHOUT CENTER DIFFERENTIALS. Driveline bind can occur when operating on dry pavement for extended periods. This can cause bucking, break parts, and cause the transfer case to pop out of 4wd high at speed with the driveshafts under different loads-long curve on an interstate.

Awd vehicle’s typically have Center differentials in there transfer case and they can split the loads between the front and rear driveshafts enabling driving on dry pavement where there is 100% potential traction front and rear. The center diff will provide the “separation” of the two driveshafts.

It gets more complicated with older 4x4s like some land rovers and land cruisers that have transfer cases with selectable center differential in there transfer cases. This enables smooth awd on pavement then when the center diff is locked true 4wd.

 

I'm curious about everyone's shop experiences getting regeared. I went with the Nitro kit, truck is currently in the shop getting gears put in. I talked to the guys on the phone a few weeks ago and asked about REM polishing/cryo, and the break-in period with changing the oil and all that.

Basically, they said you don't really need to worry about any of that. His logic was, truck comes from the factory without having anything crazy done to the gears, and you don't change your diff fluid till the 30k mile mark anyways so it seems a bit silly to waste all that expensive oil and just change it after 500 miles.

Thoughts?

 

This is a question I've been asking. I don't know anyone who "breaks in" gears when they roll a vehicle off the lot, or having to pull off to the side of the road to let the gears cool down when you go for a test drive.

 

Valid point. Didn’t think about this.

 

When I had mine done at ECGS, I asked why they needed break in as the factory gears didn’t. I’m paraphrasing, But he said the factory gears were of higher quality and cost.

I can say for sure that my fluid after 500 miles was much darker than Tacoma’s on stock gears changed at 30k, not to mention having metal in it.

“Waste” the oil.

 

Thanks for your input. I was definitely curious about a potential difference in production quality of the gears.

 

Sure. I have no idea if it’s true or not, just what the man said.

 

The dark oil is the phosphorous coating on the new gears coming off.

I tend to agree that break in is important but mostly for finding problems, not for “polishing” properly set up gears.

I may be wrong here, but my understanding is also that Nitro’s warranty policy does not cover REM polished gears.

 

Finally had the truck back in for diagnosis today. The position sensor was causing the fault. No one is really sure why as it looks perfect but they ordered one and it will be in tomorrow. Hopefully this is the last of the issues and I can just get back to enjoying the truck!

 

Could've been damaged

 

Anyone know about any sales coming up on 5.29 gear sets? Looking to do REM polish and cryo as well.

 

Hey all, emergency post here.

Just got my truck back from the shop yesterday. They told me to do 3 drives of about 15-20 miles each separated by 2-3 hours of cooldown time. Got home from my 3rd drive and my front diff was smoking and there was oil all over the top side of my skid plates.

Probably about to pull the skid plates, check oil levels and the drain and fill plugs for tightness and just inspect the diff for where the leak is coming from. Anyone out there got any advice as to whether my new gears are completely screwed?

 

When I got home from my first drive home from the shop, there was a drop of oil on the ground underneath the front diff. I looked closer under the skid plate and there was definitely a light streak of oil, so I kinda brushed it off and chocked it up to oil overfill. There was also kind of a high frequency vibration in the front diff when slowing to a stop, around 1000-1100 RPM.

Anyways, it wasn't till this morning I noticed that theres oil all over the bottom of the engine and tranny skid plate, so it's very possible in the 3 drives I took between yesterday at around 4pm and 10:30pm that all the oil could have leaked out. Hence the smoke after the last drive.

 

I agree with all of this but I would also call the shop immediately, or better yet email/text them just to let them know of the issue. If it’s a solid shop they will be happy to offer you a tow back to the shop to look it over.

 

Yea absolutely. Unfortunately there are no axle shops open in SD till Monday, so it's on me until then.

 

Thanks everyone, appreciate the advice. But in general not too concerned about damage to the gears? I did only drive 15 miles with a potentially empty front diff.

 

No, unfortunately I would be very concerned about damage to the gears if the diff was smoking. I wouldn’t touch anything until it can be returned, by tow, to the shop that did the install.

 

Depends on where it’s leaking. If it’s coming from a CV seal then it won’t be a huge deal. They aren’t turning under load anyway in 2wd. I’ve driven about 500 miles on the front diff after losing a seal. Seal blew somewhere outside Wilson, WY and I had no idea until we stopped in Ft Collins and I figured if I made it this far I could make it home.

The diff is designed to have some fluid in it at all times unless of course the drain plug is leaking.

If it’s the seal the CV is going to sling oil everywhere so a lot of that smoke maybe burning up on things like your exhaust and other engine components.

 

Yea unfortunately I was doing 50-65 in 4Hi

 

I think you’ll be ok but like others mentioned. Get in touch with the shop when they open.