TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

So I got the 02 sim and it seemed to be okay but still get a fluctuating idleafter it warms up. I need to check the throttle body. Anything else you guys can think of (aside from missing the catalytic converter. Need this POS to run so I can work in the taco.

Once it warms up it does this. I think it’s code 507.

 

Could it be a dirty MAF sensor?

 

Yes. If your pushing more air, you’ll want more fuel to even things out. You may want to keep it even after the tune. I run a 2.7 with a custom tune from ovtune and still run the fpr mod.

 

Honda's and dirty MAF sensors aren't a "thing" really.

That's a throttle body all the way.

 

great I’ll give that a cleaning. makes sense since I was driving it with essentially no exhaust after the headers for a bit after the car was jacked. Ori sucked up all sorts of crap.

 

I prob will clean it since taking the throttle body to clean makes it easy to get it map sensor and MAF (which is not hard either way) but throttle body seems low the culprit or the throttle is stuck but good to know that’s what everyone else thinks too.

 

If you use a oiled air filter like a K&N you absolutely can get a dirty maf sensor. Especially if you "serviced" it yourself and over oiled it.

 

Let's be real here Kelby, that sort of symptom on a Honda of the pre 2010s is NOT going to be a MAF. On a K series or an F series engine, definitely not, especially because they do not even have a MAF in the first place.

I'm just talking crap here by the way. I got a sudden rush of energy for some reason. In no way am I personally attacking you bud.

 

Not feeling attacked. Just sharing simple knowledge that oiled air filters aren't ideal for maf sensor vehicles. Map sensor-go for it

 

Definitely agree on oiled filters. I like my filters dry.

Unlike my women :

 

https://youtu.be/sJ3L-E-ufYo

 

I was just going to post this haha.

 

cleaned the throttle body. It was dirty but still doing the same with code PO507.

replaced the air filter while I was in there. I did not clean the MAP sensor.

going to check the PCV valve next.



cleaned both sides but forgot the lower section photo

 

Did you clean the iac on the bottom of the throttle body? They are known to get stuck.

 

Facts

 

namewise not sure but the valve in the body I did clean that. I took a toothbrush and scrubbed it all around. It moves pretty well so does not seem stuck. Thats what I cleaned first.

EDIT: I guess I did not. I was going to do it but did not. Ill pull that off and give that a clean. The symptoms seem to point to the IAC as you guys pointed out. hopefully a cleaning helps and its not faulty.

 

What does the 507 code read again? @nudavinci64

 

IAC makes sense here and one of the potential causes

https://mechanicbase.com/trouble-code/p0507/



Pulled it off and It may be a bit dirty. not sure how to test if it’s faulty or not.

 

says to use non residue cleaner. this stuff work?

$9 CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-El...esidue+electric+cleaner&qid=1583870438&sr=8-7

 

Should be fine. The IAC doesn’t have any exposed electrical sensor wires like a MAF does. The idle is the hardest part to get close to stoic which why the IAC bypass was developed. It is often neglected and not understood what the hell it is. If it is manual then just manipulate clean and operate. If electrical, there are go/no go resistance rates the actuator must pass. I assume yours is mechanical with perhaps an adjustment screw. Not played with Honda’s much.

EDIT: okay I see the plug now. There are procedures outlined the manual for what readings you should get on those pins. However you need an infrared thermometer because it will only adjust once it reaches a certain temp. There is a heater element within the controller. Google some shit about Honda for testing the IAC and see if it doesn’t pull up.