Cannot reset TPMS after new tires. Any help?

Glad you got it covered. Sounds like a real nightmare though. I'll have my antenna up when I go purchase snow tires and get them mounted on my 2017 TRD OR

 

Hopefully our local Firestone tire store will have their act together about this.

 

This is what I noticed, non OEM sensors don't work. ORO-TEK sent me the wrong ones twice and gave up. Likely what you stated that it truncates one hex character. Does anyone know if you do put the OEM senors in (new or from original wheels) how to reset the warning light loop. This is a bug in the ECU, not just the "normal" reset. I have read that once the reset (not the sensor relearn procedure) process fails (perhaps more than once) and you get the one-minute of blinking tire light followed by solid on during engine start, that the reset procedure (hold tire reset button until blink or solid) will not work.

I have an OBD II tool but it does appear to see the tire warning light as a fault.
I am going to dealer tomorrow and CarID (supplier of aftermarket "compliant" parts is going to refund me) but I'd really like to clear the codes myself.

 

Did they get this to reset eventually? There is a bug in the ECU that if the Reset fails it can leave a "loop" with the tire warning blinking and not resetting...I'm curious if your dealer was able to eventually reset the ECU once the OEMs sensors were installed? Thanks. (in the same boat).

 

Not that this is a constructive comment. But the TPMS ecu on these trucks suck. I got aftermarket wheels/tires and had brand new OEM Toyota TPMS sensors installed in them. I knew that Toyota's used a direct TPMS system and the sensor ID's needed to be added to the ECU. I refuse to pay the stealership to program the sensors so I made sure I took pics of the sensor ID's so that i could manually input them via TIS Techstream. Never managed to get that to work properly (Techstream would error out after entering in the 4th ID) so I broke down and bought an Autel TS508 tool to do it all. The tool can trigger/wake/program any brand sensor and interface with direct TPMS system vehicles via OBDII to relearn the ECU. Worked flawlessly. The thing will pay for itself in no time considering how much some shops charge to perform a relearn.

 

Ok, My TPMS experience is resolved so figured I'd document what I think it's all about.

1. Got aftermarket ORO-TEK TPMS sensors installed when I ordered new wheels/tires online with a reputable site. Fine print on Invoice even said "Guaranteed compatibility with 2017 Tacoma" <- it pays to read fine print.
2. After mounting wheels on Truck, the tire pressure idiot light and the dash pressure gauges did not reflect anything (light blinked for 1 minute and then stayed on, pressure on all 4 tires showed "---").
3. Did the useless Toyota reset button dance for the fun of it.
4. Using my Autel tools I did the relearn procedure...did not work...did the reset and unlock...did not work, I did see it uploaded the Hex values to the ECU but the ECU and the TPMS were not talking to each other. Looked to me like compatibility issue as my Autel could see the ECU and the TPMS but they could not talk to each other.
5. Reviewed ORO-TEKs documentation on the TPMS sensors (which was not easy as they are a knock-off of a knock-off China company), but I eventually found a fact sheet which showed ORO-TEKs compatability for Sienna/Sequoia and Tundra but Not Tacoma.
6. Called site I got the wheel package and they called ORO-TEK who confirmed the sensors were not going to work, nor does ORO-TEK have any yet that will.
   • SideBar: The most likely cause of the incompatibility is that the GEN III Tacomas expect a 7 character HEX value for the sensors and the current aftermarkets are mostly just 6 character. This I read on some other sites and I confirmed I do have 7 character TPMS senors installed with my read tool.
7. The site that sold me the wrong stuff stated only a Dealer had the proper sensors but they would refund the cost, shipping and labor to reinstall.
8. Got job done at local dealer, no problems, works well and fresh batteries.

Lessons learned:

• New Trucks with New Technology likely should start at the Dealer.
• Forums have lots and lots of idiots who have absolutely no idea what they are talking about.
• Expensive trucks cost more to maintain as full retail for sensors will be $94 each next time around.
• It pays to have good tools.

 

I'm facing the same situation with my 2018 Tacoma Limited with alloy wheels. I purchased Dorman 974-033 sensors which the Dorman site shows as being compatible for this model year. Had the local shop install them in after-market alloy wheels. After driving around for a bit, the dash light comes on. Tried all the various procedures to set, reset, relearn, etc. No deal. Then found this web site which seems to explain exactly what the issue is, that the ECU searches for the registered IDs, and the only way to change the registered IDs is to first unlock the ECU, which requires an expensive tool, like the ATEQ VT56 ...

https://www.ateq-tpms.com/en-us/art...arn-procedures-how-to-solve-set-button-issue/

What's even more annoying is that I run summer/winter sets of wheels/tires, so now I have to get the ECU unlocked twice per year ?!?

 

The ATEQ Quickset tool is probably your best bet if you run summer/winter wheels and want to do it yourself.

https://www.tirerack.com/accessorie...!!g!!&ef_id=WjFHgAAAASOsBW1E:20180808112445:s

 

I have not read all responses but after scratching my head trying to figure out the problem it was very simple. THE SPARE TIRE HAS A SENSOR! MAKE SURE THE AIR PRESSURE IS CORRECT IN SPARE. They tend to lose pressure over time and is easily overlooked. Mine is fine now. Ray

 

Where in Maryland are you? We tried to relearn/reset some sensors from a 2nd Gen set of wheels to my 3rd Gen yesterday with the

$219 Autel MaxiTPMS TS501 PRO, 2025 TPMS Programming Tool Same as TS508, Up of TS501 TS408S, Relearn Activate 99% TPMS Sensors, Program Autel MX-Sensor 315/433MHz, TPMS Reset & Diagnostics, Lifetime Update

Autel MaxiTPMS TS501 and may have missed a step. Please PM me if you have the time. I'd like to discuss what we possibly "didn't" do. Thanks.

 

I had two different tire dealers try to get my new aftermarket sensors working. Neither could get it to work. They were able to read the codes and gave them to me. I then used techstream to manually enter the codes and identify their position. Techstream is the way to go.

 

You didn't use the right sensors. 2nd and 3rd gens. are different.

 

I heard conflicting information on that. I was told that they are both 315mhz and will work. The only difference is steel vs alloy because the stem angle is different and if you put a steel sensor in that it has to go upside down into the wheel and is impossible to read with the hand held scanner.

 

Thanks Guys.

The wheels are the OEM Toyota Beadlocks from a 2nd Gen and so are the TPMS. Using the

$219 Autel MaxiTPMS TS501 PRO, 2025 TPMS Programming Tool Same as TS508, Up of TS501 TS408S, Relearn Activate 99% TPMS Sensors, Program Autel MX-Sensor 315/433MHz, TPMS Reset & Diagnostics, Lifetime Update

Autel MaxiTPMS TS501 was useless because I locked the ECU preventing the new sensor codes to be transmitted to it.

I did a little more digging and here is what I found out watching a video made by Autel.

Apparently, when you do as I did, and swap your setup with different sensors, get the flashing, then solid TPMS error light, and you push the "Reset" button near your left knee the ECU locks immediately. Of course.......I pushed the button like a dumbass.

I am not sure if this applies to "any" type of sensor, or crossing gens, but they did not get that specific in the video. My best guess is, if you put any sensor in there that is different than what is already programmed and push that button, you're screwed.

So naturally when we tried to do it with the ECU locked we failed. We are going to attempt it again as soon as we can.

I just bought this setup from a member on here in Massachusetts. 5 of the Bronze 16" TRD Beadlocks, and 5 S/T Maxx tires all with only 3k miles on it and 4 of them have the 2nd Gen TPMS. At first the Bronze didn't suit me and I was almost going to just swap the tires to the OEM Black Pro wheels and utilize the OEM 3rd Gen sensors, then sell the beadlocks. The Bronze is growing on me now though. If I decide to keep them all I need to do is have someone break down both sets and swap the sensors. But before I do that and pay for that I'd like to see if we can get the sensors that are in there to work. The tool is not cheap and connects directly to the OBDII port. It's pretty sophisticated. Another possible issue, when you program in the vehicle type it knows the correct PSI setting from the manuf. and if you have more or less it can throw an error while reading them. We didn't get that even though I am heavy (36psi).


As soon as @pdenajim and I can get together again we will test all this out and I will post back with the results.
Rob

 

My understanding of the 3rd gen. TPMS system is that when you initially set or reset the system, it uses the current pressures as the baseline. When the pressure drops some amount below that, the light comes on. There is no specific pressure that you have to start out at.

 

true, however this will not set below 24PSI.. it will leave error message up, and pops back up after every restart of the engine.

 

It makes sense that there is a range of acceptable pressures. I wonder what the upper limit is.

 

Do yourself a favor and only use the Autel to get the codes. Use Techstream to program the codes into your ECU. The reset button is only used once your ECU knows what codes it is looking for. This is what keeps you from picking sensors from the car next to you. Once you have the codes programmed in, you push the button so it can determine what position they are in. This is what you do when you rotate the tires.

 

Right, if I hadn't locked the ECU it would have worked. If we knew about locking out the ECU we would have just unlocked it and proceeded. I saw that option on the screen and immediately said stop. I was not about to brick the ECU trying to save a buck. Now that we know it's ok to, and that we have to unlock it, I bet anyone a cold beer it will work.

So get in on this bet now, because 9 times outta 10, shit stays broke for me.

 

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by locking out your ecu. Did you run some 3rd part software?