Passenger window wont roll up

My passenger window wont roll up. i checked the fuzes and nothing is blown. Anyone have a recommendations before i take it to toyota?? p.s. neither of the switches will work. doesnt make a sound or anything. only drivers window works now.

 

Sounds like the motor went out. Hopefully you're truck is till under warranty.

EDIT: Check to make sure that you haven't activated the child window lock. It's the switch on the driver arm rest.

 

x2, there aren't many components to the window operators. If the fuse isn't blown and the wires aren't cut, either switch is bad (unlikely) or the motor is bad (likely).

 

Probs child window lock.....ive done it many times

 

Odd. So when you say neither switch do you mean the switch on the driver's door won't work either? Sounds like maybe the motor died. Or perhaps something in the door is disconnected. Maybe jostled around good at the puerco? Or have you washed it recently. The wife's 350Z window switched died when they got wet from opening the door in the rain, so maybe water got in the motor through a bad place in the weatherstrip?

 

Or this. Forgot about that. My 1st gen with manual crank windows doesn't have them.

 

That would be pretty funny.... Check this before you take it to the dealership!!

 

Dummy error for sure. Lol I just checked the window lock on the drivers door and sure enough it was engaged. Haha glad im not the only one who has done that

 

Personally, I would have just said the motor was bad and not admitted to it...

 

Well, as long as you don't tell anyone you'll be okay ...... .

 

Yes, the child lock!

 

Lol

 

Best done to add some complaining about the dealer wait, the cost of the repair, and now that your window doesn't work as fast. Just to give validity to the process.

For others who actually do have motor failures, out of warranty. Find a good electrical specialty shop if you are around an urban area. Often they can do the repair for 1/2 a dealer price.

If you are a DIY type, the part can be sourced from a couple of places (by the time age is the reason for failure) and repair yourself for a reasonable cost.

 

I've had this problem twice now with my 2009 Tacoma. Neither switch, passenger side or driver's side would roll up the window. It would roll down, but not up. It's a relay on the driver's side. It took the dealer a long time to diagnose the problem. The first service visit, they told me the switch was gone on the passenger side, so I bought a new switch. $116 for a small piece of plastic. The switch assembly just pops out of the armrest, so it was easy enough to replace it by myself. It made no difference. Window still didn't work. I took it back to the dealer. The technician spent 3 hours diagnosing the problem, and found it was a relay on the driver's side. It cost about $350 to fix the window. I thought I could get a refund on the $116 I spent on a useless passenger side switch, but I was told "we don't give refunds on electronic parts". OK, now I'm over $450 out of pocket. 2 years later, it's happened again. I still have the switch I bought last time, so I swapped it out. As I suspected, it made no difference, so it's probably the damn relay again. I may be able to shorten the diagnostic procedure this time, but of course they have to go through their own process, and they generally don't believe that the owner is able to diagnose mechanical problems on their own. There is a way to cross the contacts and make the window roll up. I can take off the door panel and get into the wiring. If I can get the window to roll up, I'll just lock it out with the child protection switch, so the passenger can't roll the window down. There must be a youtube video.......

 

Mine quit one day and after an hour of going round and round with it, it finally started working again for no apparent reason... never did know what the hell it was, I bet this was it all along!!

 

All of the power windows use a common ground in the drivers control pod.

 

This issue just happened to me (and no it wasn’t the child lock lol). The power window for the rear passenger door would roll down but not up. After we stopped, my husband turned the truck off, I opened the door, shut it pretty hard and it worked again.

Not sure why it happened, but this seemed to fix the issue. We have an 07 Tacoma DC with about 50k miles on it.

 

I had the same problem. Rear passenger window would roll down ok but not up using either the door switch or the driver master switch. Finding this diagram https://twstatic.net/attachments/625411ea-6784-4c22-b7be-3f1063dc8b8e-jpg.5252453/ I could see that the two switches are wired in serial. Since it would roll down fine that told me either there was some kind of gearbox problem with the motor or one of the two switches was faulty. Since I frequently ride with that rear window down and a dog hanging out of it the switch gets wet from time to time so that was my first suspect.

The short story is I managed to pull the switch out and then took it apart. As I feared because it is not weatherproof or waterproofed in any way after 9 years it had accumulated a good amount of internal corrosion. It is a double pole double throw mechanism with 2 V-shaped copper levers. So there are 4 contact points and 2 friction contact points to go bad. The friction points were in good shape but the contacts had accumulated a white-green chalk over them. I cleaned them up with a wire brush and sprayed some contact cleaner on for good measure. I also cleaned the 5 connector terminals which were also in bad shape but I doubt that was a problem since they are tight fitting. I put the switch back together (easy) and plugged it in and then heard the glorious sound of the window closing up tight again.

I found this video after my first failed attempt to remove the switch from the door https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQmDoZSZuY4. It's a good walkthrough of the whole fix. A couple of things he doesn't mention though. First is it ain't nearly as easy to remove the switch from the door as he shows. It's not just a matter of putting a screwdriver or spudger under the front and lifting it. There is a metal catch that has to be snagged by pushing your tool down and then rearward. You can see it on pics from parts stores. If you don't do that you will likely crack the switch assembly. Second is when you take the switch housing apart be prepared for the 2 little copper levers to go flying. There are no loose springs in it but there are springs built into the switch toggle to eject them. I was able to easily get the housing apart by using 2 guitar picks to unlock the 2 pairs of plastic snags.

It's not always that I've been able to save several hundred bucks doing an easy fix using things laying around the garage but this was one of those times.